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Old 02-15-2017, 08:16 AM
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lol..nothing?
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Old 02-15-2017, 02:19 PM
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Originally Posted by charlie_b
lol..nothing?
You have so many skills to share it's hard for us to know where to start lol. For the beginners advice on shading and streaks for sure. And advice on how to select colors to achieve eye appealing combos. For the advanced features some work with shadows is always useful, and you cannot go wrong with skulls and ghouls. Thats my 2cents.
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Old 02-16-2017, 01:42 AM
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Originally Posted by chris moore
You have so many skills to share it's hard for us to know where to start lol. For the beginners advice on shading and streaks for sure. And advice on how to select colors to achieve eye appealing combos. For the advanced features some work with shadows is always useful, and you cannot go wrong with skulls and ghouls. Thats my 2cents.
Thanks Chris! It's funny my lesson plan it's pretty close to what you said. I guess, sticking to the game plan should be the plan and let it go what ever the direction the students take it. As soon as I get all the logistics in order, I'll post up more details.
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Old 02-16-2017, 06:22 AM
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Is it pretty much a given that everybody uses Iwata airbrushes? I have had all kinds of problems with tip dry on my Badger 105 using Faskolor/Createx paint. I even spent big bucks and had some needles and tips industrial Teflon coated. This made my 105 marginally better. Is it even worth messing around with adding Vallejo flow improver? Should I just ditch the Badgers and buy Iwata? My Badgers used to work great back in the Pactra days. I really don't want to go back to using solvent based paints.
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Old 02-18-2017, 12:19 AM
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Originally Posted by RC10B2
Is it pretty much a given that everybody uses Iwata airbrushes? I have had all kinds of problems with tip dry on my Badger 105 using Faskolor/Createx paint. I even spent big bucks and had some needles and tips industrial Teflon coated. This made my 105 marginally better. Is it even worth messing around with adding Vallejo flow improver? Should I just ditch the Badgers and buy Iwata? My Badgers used to work great back in the Pactra days. I really don't want to go back to using solvent based paints.
You can grind down the cap so you can access the needle easier on the badgers, I get just as much tip dry on my Iwata as I do on my H&S and as well as on my Badger, the only issue was that I couldn't access the needle tip, so I biffed it on the grinder and ground the cap down.
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Old 04-08-2017, 12:13 AM
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Anybody have a good tutorial on streaks? Looking to learn this teqnique and get this good

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Old 04-08-2017, 11:05 AM
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Picked up a used iwata hp-c plus Its all stock what do I have to get to get a wider spray there was no booklet with it i think it has 0.3 needle now Thanks
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Old 04-11-2017, 12:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Jack Smash
Anybody have a good tutorial on streaks? Looking to learn this teqnique and get this good

Here is an old one

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qMBRaSdmLSU

updated one coming.
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Old 04-11-2017, 12:30 PM
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Originally Posted by GeorgePravata
Picked up a used iwata hp-c plus Its all stock what do I have to get to get a wider spray there was no booklet with it i think it has 0.3 needle now Thanks
All you need to do to go wider is pull back on your trigger. The farther back, the larger the volume of spray will come out. Also, the farther back your gun is, the larger the pattern as well.
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Old 04-12-2017, 11:10 PM
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Youre the man Charlie!
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Old 05-09-2017, 02:34 PM
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I've been reading some about transparent base and I don't quite understand how its being used to eliminate ghost farts. Shading and shadowing is the next skill I need to develop. I can pull of decent multi color paint jobs but if I try to shade or shadow it turns into a disaster so I've sworn it off for now.

How does the transparent base work? Is it something you apply to the whole body before putting any color on? Or just before doing any shadow/shade work? Any help would be appreciated.

Part of my problem I think is I've been trying to shadow with an opaque black and its not very forgiving. Reading that a more transparent smoke black would be better. Thoughts on that?
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Old 06-13-2017, 07:13 AM
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Originally Posted by Apco1
I've been reading some about transparent base and I don't quite understand how its being used to eliminate ghost farts. Shading and shadowing is the next skill I need to develop. I can pull of decent multi color paint jobs but if I try to shade or shadow it turns into a disaster so I've sworn it off for now.

How does the transparent base work? Is it something you apply to the whole body before putting any color on? Or just before doing any shadow/shade work? Any help would be appreciated.

Part of my problem I think is I've been trying to shadow with an opaque black and its not very forgiving. Reading that a more transparent smoke black would be better. Thoughts on that?

You can use it use it before you paint or between coats. It is basically a colorless paint that allows the paint to cling onto it so there is no paint dust/overspray in some of the curves of the body. You can focus on the area you are shadowing on with out worrying about paint dust showing up later on when you lay another color.
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Old 09-11-2017, 08:47 PM
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I'm having some issues as of late.and hoping someone can help. I'm no rookie. I've painted about 150 bodies but lately I've had issues with my pins peeling back when I move to the next color. It's only my pins which is the weird thing. It's like the paint isn't sticking to the liquid mask and when I peel the next color they separate and peel up the backing color off my pins and some times even the pin all the way down to the plastic. It also seems like the more paint I put on the worst it is. Meaning the further I get into a paint job the worst the problem becomes. Today I finished one up and pull the window masks and it took a pin with it. I know some people say to cut the pins when you move on to the next but that's a lot of work and I've never had to do it in the past.
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Old 09-11-2017, 08:58 PM
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Originally Posted by kyosho_utah
I'm having some issues as of late.and hoping someone can help. I'm no rookie. I've painted about 150 bodies but lately I've had issues with my pins peeling back when I move to the next color. It's only my pins which is the weird thing. It's like the paint isn't sticking to the liquid mask and when I peel the next color they separate and peel up the backing color off my pins and some times even the pin all the way down to the plastic. It also seems like the more paint I put on the worst it is. Meaning the further I get into a paint job the worst the problem becomes. Today I finished one up and pull the window masks and it took a pin with it. I know some people say to cut the pins when you move on to the next but that's a lot of work and I've never had to do it in the past.
What paint are you using? It sound's like you're trying to cover with fewer coats. If you are using something like faskolor or createx try reducing the paint. I use AutoAir flash reducer 4011. Stuff is fantastic. Also, how do you prep the body? Hot soapy water with a clean rag or sponge then buff it with a scotch brite to give something for the paint to hold onto then hot soapy water again. Something else that may cause that is humidity. The paint may be dry to the touch but is not cured enough. When I use water base I always build up color and cook it with a space heater between coats. Hope that helps.
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Old 09-11-2017, 09:07 PM
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Also try using a sealer coat like Krylon paint from the local Wally World. And bake it one last time.

Window pins are a pain. Those have got to be light coats and fully dry or they'll peel right off. When you remove the mask for the window pins buff that area with a scotchbrite. That will help.
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