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Old 08-05-2004, 08:35 AM   #1
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Default Need some help with my Paasche VL

I just inherited a Paasche VL, probably 8-10 years old. It's got some really dried-on, nasty stuff, so I'm trying to strip it down for a soaking in laquer thinner. So far the main problem I'm having; I can't remove the air valve washer (part of the air valve assembly). The rest of the air valve parts are out, but the washer seems to be stuck. Anyone have any suggestions? Also, should I remove the "packing washer" before soaking it? I've attached the schematic for this brush to help clarify the parts in question.

Anyone have any further suggestions for cleaning this thing? So far, it's just been a solvent bath and picking away at the grime with a pin and some itty bitty soft bottle brushes...

Thanks
Jay
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Old 08-06-2004, 11:51 PM   #2
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It might be a good idea to order and replace the packing assembly all together. According to Paasche it's a part that stands to replacing when used heavily. Even if you did get it clean you may experience less than optimal performace.

Paasche does have a reamer and it sounds like a good part to have in your case.

My suggestions are get the reamer, replace the packing assembly and the spring/valve assembly. I don't think they cost much, you may end up needing them in the long run based on your description of the brushes condition.

Oh yeah while your at it ... order the metal handle Yours probably has the red plastic handle. I would
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Old 08-07-2004, 06:37 PM   #3
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Thanks Qranc. Why the metal handle? Balance? Also, which one, the regular length or the "stubby" version?

Does the air valve assembly come off of the airbrush body? I talking about the entire stem, not just the internal parts. If so, how do I remove it? I didn't see any threading or flat surfaces for a wrench. I never did get that washer out, it's stuck in there pretty well. That may be the only way I can remove it.

thanks again,
Jay
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Old 08-09-2004, 02:07 AM   #4
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The air vavle washer is the first item I would replace out of the assembly (I think they are sold by the dozen). I understood from your post that you had most of the air valve assembly out? there is an air valve nut just inside the part where the air hoses attaches to the brush. Then there is the spring, valve and the washer. Try using a pin to get the washer out, or a piece of bent wire (maybe a bent paper clip or something?).

If you have free needle action then maybe the packing washer may not need replacing but if it were me I would want to take a look at it.

I only suggested that I would buy the metal handle if I was ordering parts simply out of vanity sake. There is nothing wrong with the plastic handle. I would tend towards the full length handle over the stubby but I really would have to try the brush with both to make an learned opinion. I still have the plastic handle on my brush and I have had it over 10 years which goes to show you how important it really is to me to have the metal handle Just one of those "would be nice to have" things.
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Old 08-14-2004, 02:54 PM   #5
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Corruptor/Qranc,

I wouldn't get the metal handle... I've known too many people that have crossed threaded their bodies using it. the thread is VERY fine, and believe me, you dont want to damage the threads in the body.
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Old 08-14-2004, 11:44 PM   #6
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Excellent point TnB!

I didn't know cross threading would be an issue but knowing others have had that problem I would just as soon stay with the plastic handle. Thnx for the heads up!

Speaking of which ... I just realized it would be easier to cut out the plastic handle to give access to the needle adjusting sleeve (like on the VL STPRO, MIL and other models). If you really wanted to

I think I will buy the crown cap tho.
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