Dr. Evil

iTrader: (12)

Hi folks. I have a question. I have used faskolor and Spaz Stix paints.

I have waited about 1 1/2 hours per coat on a simple 2 color paint jobs.

Both colors were used on seperate occasions with the same results.

The color seems to be easy to scratch () after I apply a

white coat to make my florescent orange body brighter. (I have waited for

the colors to dry before trying to do anything with the bod. (12 hours)

Can someone tell me how to make my body colors stick and not be easy to

damage?

BTW, my last paint job was painted with Spaz Stix paint and I applied a thin first coat, let it dry, then a heavier coat, let it dry, then my white coat. let it dry.

The paint is not as heavy as I use to put on. I thought I would make the

lighter.

I used a rattle can paints before, and I have a body that I have used since

the late 90s and it doesn't flake. Heavy coated and all. What am I doing

wrong?


thanks much

Colors_By_Dave

iTrader: (84)

All paints are going to be somewhat less durable than a factory screened graphic. It's tough, but adding a layer of enamel spray paint, or clearcoat can help avoid nicks. But it's still a fairly fragile coating. Some guys add a layer of FasKoat or ShooGoo to make it very durable.

MikeXray

iTrader: (73)

How are you prepping the body, it needs to be cleaned well and scuffed if you are not using chrome. Faskolor no matter what you do will scratch, it just doesn't bond to the lexan well. Backing with enamel works wonders, I use rustoleum flat protective enamel, or clear coat, both work well.

Dr. Evil

iTrader: (12)

Well, I washed the body with soap and water. Ran lots of water to get soap out. Used liquid mask, then I marked on design. AFter that, I cut it out, then started to paint.

Funny, I really think maybe I put too much paint on the body in the past. Maybe the one I painted with a rattle can was done fast enough that I didn't use much paint.

I just talked to Parma today and they said that possibly my first coat was too heavy and if not, I didn't let it dry enough.

Dr. Evil

iTrader: (12)

has anyone used Spaz stik paint??

Smells toxic. I wonder if it will stick better??

I use a respirator with this stuff.

Colors are richer I think..

zanernator

i had to let my body sit for a week in my house with the heat on.

faskolor is junk in my opinion

steve1986

I have had the same problem with faskolor painted a dune buggy last week let it dry all day and I used FasKoat and it didnt seem to help faskolor is junk.

metcalf939

iTrader: (25)

if, in your opinion that faskolor is junk, then what do you use. don't say that it is junk and not tell us what you use.

hijacker

iTrader: (1)

Not sure what you guys are doing, I've been using Faskolor for years with great results. I just wash the body with dish soap, mask and paint. I hit the paint with a hair dryer to dry each color.

Dr. Evil

iTrader: (12)

Well, after talking to a few people today, I am finding out some interesting things about painting. Spraying the first coat and letting it dry is important. The first coat is kinda a bonding coat where the paint bonds to the lexan and the next coats bond to the first. Painting can be done right. I also hear that the white from Faskolor is not as forgiving as the black paint. I tends to not dry out as well as black (so says the mfg)

I will need to practice more and apply lighter coats and see how this goes.

Bfutura15

iTrader: (8)

Correct. Instead of doing 1 light coat, a heavier coat, then a backer. Do several light coats, then a backer. I usually put on 4-5 light coats. The first coat is almost like a dusting.

Dr. Evil

iTrader: (12)

Dusting is what I was told to do for the first coat.

I am new to this, but, I don't mind playing.


What paint are most people using??

Sauber F1

As mention earlier, the first coat has to dry completely or it will bond more to the next color than to the plastic.
Actually I spray about 2, 3 very thin layers and dry them with a hair dryer thoroughly.
After washing the lexan plastic with soap, use only cold water to rinse it off. Warm water activates the soap again while cold water washes it off.
Additionally I use Testor's Plastic Prep fluid which claims to get mold release residue off the plastic.
My paint of choice: Patra

Bfutura15

iTrader: (8)

I mostly use Spaz, Kustom Kolor, followed by Auto Air, then Faskolor. I personally like spraying Lacquer paints. Auto Air is starting to grow on me. I just have to thin them properly. I would say most people use Faskolor.

Maxxthrasher

You're starting to get into it now. You'll find the more you research the more you'll learn. With FASKOLOR or any waterborne paints....First coat, bonding coat, very important. Backing coat, very important.

The difference with the rattle can paints you've used and the waterborne paints you're using, is the way these two bond to the polycarbonate. Rattle cans, which are usually lacquer based, or enamel, bonds to the surface via chemical reaction with the polycarbonate. They actually "etch" into the surface creating a tighter bond. Waterborne paints bond when the solvent (usually water) dries leaving the pigment attaching itself to the surface. Therefore, the use of a backing coat is needed to help protect the paint from nicks or scratches.

Each type of paint has its own "system" and each is different. There is a slight learning curve with each, but they all work when you know how to use them.