1Likesfaskolor and water based paints
12-18-2009, 05:49 PM
#16
Tech Master
iTrader: (47)
Here is one more way of thinning water based paint to add to your list.
I tried it and it works great.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zZrmN...x=0&playnext=1
I tried it and it works great.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zZrmN...x=0&playnext=1
12-18-2009, 07:17 PM
#17
Here is one more way of thinning water based paint to add to your list.
I tried it and it works great.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zZrmN...x=0&playnext=1
I tried it and it works great.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zZrmN...x=0&playnext=1
12-19-2009, 09:39 AM
#18
Updated the test this morning.
I am currently shaking all the paint mixtures and will try shooting them in a few minutes.
I will also add a couple more items to the project that were late suggestions.
More photos to come.
I am currently shaking all the paint mixtures and will try shooting them in a few minutes.
I will also add a couple more items to the project that were late suggestions.
More photos to come.
12-19-2009, 05:51 PM
#19
And here is the project completed.
I was asked to revist thiis little project and add a few more reducers into the test.
If you want to check out the original test heres it is.
http://cfxpaintworks.com/modules.php...05aace11dc84d3
I will be doing things a little different this time around.
FasWhite will be the paint used this time, instead of FasRed.
The paint will be mixed with a 2 to 1 ratio (paint to thinner).
After getting each reducer added to the paint they will be shaken on a home brew paint shaker for 5 minutes.
The paint shaker can be seen here running on 5 volts.
http://s246.photobucket.com/albums/g...nt_shkr002.flv
This link shows it running at 12 volts.
http://s246.photobucket.com/albums/g...nt_shkr003.flv
The paint will be shaken on the 5 volt setting
After the shaking occurs I will take some pictures directly aftwards and then wait an hour or so to allow the paint to settle, gas to be released, jars to clear, etc.... and I will then snap some more pics.
After this is done the paint will be allowed to sit overnight to allow the thinner and paint to seperate from each other, should there be any. Again pictures will be taken at this point.
Once the pictures have been taken the paints will again be mixed on the paint shaker for 5 minutes.
I will then proceed to shoot the paint through three different brushes.
The first brush I will use is a Iwata HP-CR Revolution with a .5mm needle/nozzle.
The second brush will be a Iwata HP-CS Eclipse with a .35mm needle/nozzle.
The final brush will be a AirPro PS1000 with a .2mm needle/nozzle.
Each brush will be completely cleaned after each type of paint has been sprayed through it.
The cleaning process will be a combination manual cleaning and ultrasonic cleaning with the final process being AutoAir Restore ran through the brush to make sure no unseen paint is left.
I will be noting the pressure the paint is sprayed at, how thin I am able to get the lines, how well the paint flows, as well as drying time for each type of paint.
Since the paint we are using is white I will spray it onto a piece of smoked lexan to make it easier to see in photos.
With out further delay I present the thinners.
You will notice that each bottle has a writing on it. This is to help determine which thinner is being used in that bottle.
If you dont want to guess what each thinner is I will give you a key to follow.
H2O = Distilled water
DAL = Denatured Alcohol
7AL = 70% IsoPropoly Alcohol
9AL = 92% IsoPropoly Alcohol
W = Windex (original blue formula)
F = Fantastik (General Cleaner formula)
HP3 = Hydrogene Peroxide 3%
FAST = Parma FasThinner
When mixing the paint and thinner together the paint was applied to the jar first then followed by the thinner.
Each jar was filled with .002lbs of paint followed with .001lbs of thinner. You will notice that levels of the jars are slightly different and this is due to the weight of each thinner being different than the other.
In the above photos we can see how the paint responded to the thinner being poored into it.
The Distilled water has a fairly nice white color from top to bottom.
All the alcohol thinners so a common pattern. There is seperation of the paint and thinner. The paint is resting at the bottom of the jar while the thinner sits at the top of the jar.
Another item to note is how the alcohol based thinners cause the paint to gel up. If you look closely at eash one you can see formations in the paint or particles floating in the paint. This was observed in the previous test as well.
Next group of thinners.
In this shot we can both the Hydrogene Peroxide and the FasThinner have a nice white color from top to bottom.
The windex bottle has a somewhat white color to it but you can see a distinct blue tint siitting above the white paint.
The fantastik does have white streaks that go through the tinner but the paint doesnt look as though it is readily mixing with the thinner in this test.
I would also like to point out the somewhat blueish white band that seperates the paint at the bottom of the jar and the thinner at the top of the jar. I saw this same thing occur in the last test with this thinner as well. I am not sure what causes this but it didnt seem to effect the color or the way the paint sprayed in the last test. I guess we will see how it does this time around.
Time to get this stuff mixed up.
Here was have a few shots of the paint mixed for the first time.
In the above photo the Water and Denatured alcohol show no signs of paint chunks after being mixed.
While both of the Isopropoly alcohol thinners show signs of paint chunks on the side of the jar!
You will also notice how the Water and Denatured Alcohol both have color on the side of the jar while the Isopropoly thinners are much more transparent.
In this photo we have both the windex and the fantastik showing no signs of paint chunks and holding good color to the side of the jar.
The Hydrogene peroxide and Fasthinner both appear to have a more transparent color as well as show some signs of paint chunks on the side of the jar but they are much much smaller than those of the alcohol thinners.
That is pretty much it for right now.
I will let the jars sit for at least an hour then snap some photos to see how things are progressing.
OK here we have the short time thinner sepeartion photos. I think total elapsed time was around 2.5 hours after the paints had been shaken.
In the above photo you should notice that both the 70% and 92% alcohol reducers have started to seperate from the paint.
The Denatured alcohol does appear to be seperating at this time but I will see how it looks in the morning.
There is minimal water seperation.
The 92% alcohol has by far the worst seperation of any of these thinners.
It is hard to see it but all the thinners in the above photo have started to seperate.
The windex still have a fairly nice color throughout the bottle but if you look closely about mid way up the bottle you will see a slight change in color. It now has a blue tint to the white.
The Fantastik is reacting much the same way but it the seperation is near as visible. The photos dont do us any justice as I cant see to catch the slight purplish tint that is seen by the naked eye about 2/3's the way up the bottle.
The Peroxide only has a minor amount of seperation at the very top of the bottle as well as the FasThinner.
I will let these sit over night and check the seperation again in the morning.
To continue on with the project I have decided to run a baseline test with the FasWhite paint unthinned. I will be spraying it at roughly 35psi.
Here is a shot of the baseline, line and flow test.
The paint flowed the best from the HP-CR (Revolution). As can be seen in the lines the flow was not consistant but it was decent. I was able to get lines down to about the thickness of Fine Point Sharpie marker, right around 1/16th of an inch.
When I switched to the HP-CS (Eclipse) I was able to maintain line thickness but flow became more troublesome.
With the PS1000 (AirPro) line thickness became a major issues as just to get paint flow from the brush I had to open the trigger up at least half way back.
After sitting over night the paint and thinner has seperated quite a bit on most of the thinners. Though some of the thinners show seperation the coloring in the seperated area is far better than some of the other thinners.
Some more pics.
I have added some blue lines on the left sides of the jar to point out the area of seperation. Some of the mixtures seperation cant be captured by the camera.
There are two things to take notice of from this picture.
1) All of the alcohol reducers have large paint chunks in them.
2) The 92% alcohol reducer shows different layers of chunks the closer you get to the top of the jar! I dont know if you can see this in the picture or not but it looks pretty nasty in person!!!
In this photo there is much to note other than how the peroxide has almost not seperation and the FasThinner has a lot of seperation but the seperated area has very good looking color. Another note about the FasThinner is the level of the paint on the bottom of the jar. It is by far the lowest of any of the thinners in the test. This indicates that a lot more paint is remaining is the seperated area around the middle of the jar!
Both the Fantastik and Windex show signs of seperation. Though each one is holding some paint in the seperated area the original color of the reducer is over powering the suspended paint in this area!
Time to shake things up.
After shaking I proceed to shoot the paint through my brushes.
First up was water. It sprayed decently through the .5 mm needle/nozzle of the Revolution but didnt do near as well through the .35mm needle of the Eclipse and plain hated life through the .2 mm needle of the AirPro PS1000. All in all the paint flowed decently and didnt have any major paint chunks but you would need to water the paint down quite a bit to get it to flow good through both of the smaller brushes and at that point I think it would be to wet to get fine detail with it.
All of the alcohol reducers seemed to make the paint gummy. The Denatured Alcohol and the 70% Isopropoly Alcohol both thinned the paint but the 92% Alcohol made the paint turn into cottage cheese! Alcohol could be used as a reducer but you would want to stay with the 70% Isopropoly or Denatured Alcohol. I would also recommend adding a little water into them to help thin the paint a little more and keep the clotting of the paint down. I was not able to spray any of the alcohol reduced paints through my AirPro's .2mm needle and I wouldnt attempt to spray the 92% Ispropoly Alcohol reduced paint through any of my brushes. Here are the pics.
Next we have the Windex. I was able to get the paint through all three brushes with the Windex but there was much more tip dry with this reducer which lead to some paint flow issues.
I should also note I was able to spray paint from the brushes at a hair over 15 psi.
Fantastik was my preferred thinner heading into this little project. It preformed much like I remembered it preforming. Giving me good paint flow, not a lot of tip dry, but it leaves a somewhat of a funky smell behind. Again the pressure on all brushes was around 15 psi. The Fantastik reduced paint didnt suffer as much tip dry as the windex. It also seemed to be a little thinner paint which can be seen in the picture as some of the lines wanted to spider web on me.
Peroxide surprised me the most out of all of these thinners. It was one just something that was sitting beside the 70% alcohol in the bathroom so I grabbed it and decided to include it in the test.
It actually preformed very well allowing the paint to flow freely from all three brushes and even being a little on the thin side causing the paint to spider web at times, while being shot at a hair under 15 psi.
Next comes the FasThinner. It was the only manufacture produced thinner in the test. It actually preformed almost exactly like the peroxide but seemed to allow the paint to flash just a little quicker than the peroxide.
And a late entry into the project was Future.
I had not heard of this product being used as a reducer until today. I must say I am very glad that I did! With the same ratio of 2 to 1 as all the other reducers had the Future had the smoothest paint flow of all the reducers. I noticed no tip dry what so ever!!! The paint takes a little longer to dry than most of the other reducers tested but I do beleive I could live with it based on the way it preformed.
Of all the reducers test this was the only reducer that go below 10psi on the spraying pressure and still flowed very well.
I did not follow the recommend directions of paint/water/future ratio but instead went with a straight paint/future mixture and it seemed to work just fine. Coming in a $6 for 27floz it is much cheaper than the Parma FasThinner would be at the same volume. It preforms every bit as well and in the ratio being tested, actually better than the FasThinner.
Fine sub pencil size lines where no problems out of any of the brushes! Again I must say that there was no tip dry what so ever while doing the test sprays. Future and FasThinner were the only two that didnt have tip dry while spraying.
Here are some pics of the future thinned paint.
In closing there are several things that can be used from your home to thin with. Water, Alcohol, Windex, Fantastik, Future , even Peroxide! When comparing these home brew thinners to Parma's FasThinner there are only two that come close to giving the same or better preformance for your paint. Those were Peroxide and Future.
Water will work to thin your paints but it may require a large amount to get the paint thin enough for fine detail and at that point you may have to much water in the paint to be able to effectively spray it.
I would not recommend any of the alcohol thinners on their own. Though they work they seem to cause some problems with the paint wanting to chunk up as well as excessive tip dry.
Fantastik and Windex also work really well for home brew thinning. Both will reduce the paint nicely and give you a much better flowing paint but each cause some tip dry issues.
Peroxide and Future both give you good paint reduction and flow with little to no tip dry! They are also some of the cheapest of the items by volume in this test.
If you dont want to spend the money on a commercial thinner then you can find items around your home to thin with and hopefully after this little project you will now have a little better idea of what items to steer clear of as well as some to try.
Hope this helps someone.
I was asked to revist thiis little project and add a few more reducers into the test.
If you want to check out the original test heres it is.
http://cfxpaintworks.com/modules.php...05aace11dc84d3
I will be doing things a little different this time around.
FasWhite will be the paint used this time, instead of FasRed.
The paint will be mixed with a 2 to 1 ratio (paint to thinner).
After getting each reducer added to the paint they will be shaken on a home brew paint shaker for 5 minutes.
The paint shaker can be seen here running on 5 volts.
http://s246.photobucket.com/albums/g...nt_shkr002.flv
This link shows it running at 12 volts.
http://s246.photobucket.com/albums/g...nt_shkr003.flv
The paint will be shaken on the 5 volt setting
After the shaking occurs I will take some pictures directly aftwards and then wait an hour or so to allow the paint to settle, gas to be released, jars to clear, etc.... and I will then snap some more pics.
After this is done the paint will be allowed to sit overnight to allow the thinner and paint to seperate from each other, should there be any. Again pictures will be taken at this point.
Once the pictures have been taken the paints will again be mixed on the paint shaker for 5 minutes.
I will then proceed to shoot the paint through three different brushes.
The first brush I will use is a Iwata HP-CR Revolution with a .5mm needle/nozzle.
The second brush will be a Iwata HP-CS Eclipse with a .35mm needle/nozzle.
The final brush will be a AirPro PS1000 with a .2mm needle/nozzle.
Each brush will be completely cleaned after each type of paint has been sprayed through it.
The cleaning process will be a combination manual cleaning and ultrasonic cleaning with the final process being AutoAir Restore ran through the brush to make sure no unseen paint is left.
I will be noting the pressure the paint is sprayed at, how thin I am able to get the lines, how well the paint flows, as well as drying time for each type of paint.
Since the paint we are using is white I will spray it onto a piece of smoked lexan to make it easier to see in photos.
With out further delay I present the thinners.
You will notice that each bottle has a writing on it. This is to help determine which thinner is being used in that bottle.
If you dont want to guess what each thinner is I will give you a key to follow.
H2O = Distilled water
DAL = Denatured Alcohol
7AL = 70% IsoPropoly Alcohol
9AL = 92% IsoPropoly Alcohol
W = Windex (original blue formula)
F = Fantastik (General Cleaner formula)
HP3 = Hydrogene Peroxide 3%
FAST = Parma FasThinner
When mixing the paint and thinner together the paint was applied to the jar first then followed by the thinner.
Each jar was filled with .002lbs of paint followed with .001lbs of thinner. You will notice that levels of the jars are slightly different and this is due to the weight of each thinner being different than the other.
In the above photos we can see how the paint responded to the thinner being poored into it.
The Distilled water has a fairly nice white color from top to bottom.
All the alcohol thinners so a common pattern. There is seperation of the paint and thinner. The paint is resting at the bottom of the jar while the thinner sits at the top of the jar.
Another item to note is how the alcohol based thinners cause the paint to gel up. If you look closely at eash one you can see formations in the paint or particles floating in the paint. This was observed in the previous test as well.
Next group of thinners.
In this shot we can both the Hydrogene Peroxide and the FasThinner have a nice white color from top to bottom.
The windex bottle has a somewhat white color to it but you can see a distinct blue tint siitting above the white paint.
The fantastik does have white streaks that go through the tinner but the paint doesnt look as though it is readily mixing with the thinner in this test.
I would also like to point out the somewhat blueish white band that seperates the paint at the bottom of the jar and the thinner at the top of the jar. I saw this same thing occur in the last test with this thinner as well. I am not sure what causes this but it didnt seem to effect the color or the way the paint sprayed in the last test. I guess we will see how it does this time around.
Time to get this stuff mixed up.
Here was have a few shots of the paint mixed for the first time.
In the above photo the Water and Denatured alcohol show no signs of paint chunks after being mixed.
While both of the Isopropoly alcohol thinners show signs of paint chunks on the side of the jar!
You will also notice how the Water and Denatured Alcohol both have color on the side of the jar while the Isopropoly thinners are much more transparent.
In this photo we have both the windex and the fantastik showing no signs of paint chunks and holding good color to the side of the jar.
The Hydrogene peroxide and Fasthinner both appear to have a more transparent color as well as show some signs of paint chunks on the side of the jar but they are much much smaller than those of the alcohol thinners.
That is pretty much it for right now.
I will let the jars sit for at least an hour then snap some photos to see how things are progressing.
OK here we have the short time thinner sepeartion photos. I think total elapsed time was around 2.5 hours after the paints had been shaken.
In the above photo you should notice that both the 70% and 92% alcohol reducers have started to seperate from the paint.
The Denatured alcohol does appear to be seperating at this time but I will see how it looks in the morning.
There is minimal water seperation.
The 92% alcohol has by far the worst seperation of any of these thinners.
It is hard to see it but all the thinners in the above photo have started to seperate.
The windex still have a fairly nice color throughout the bottle but if you look closely about mid way up the bottle you will see a slight change in color. It now has a blue tint to the white.
The Fantastik is reacting much the same way but it the seperation is near as visible. The photos dont do us any justice as I cant see to catch the slight purplish tint that is seen by the naked eye about 2/3's the way up the bottle.
The Peroxide only has a minor amount of seperation at the very top of the bottle as well as the FasThinner.
I will let these sit over night and check the seperation again in the morning.
To continue on with the project I have decided to run a baseline test with the FasWhite paint unthinned. I will be spraying it at roughly 35psi.
Here is a shot of the baseline, line and flow test.
The paint flowed the best from the HP-CR (Revolution). As can be seen in the lines the flow was not consistant but it was decent. I was able to get lines down to about the thickness of Fine Point Sharpie marker, right around 1/16th of an inch.
When I switched to the HP-CS (Eclipse) I was able to maintain line thickness but flow became more troublesome.
With the PS1000 (AirPro) line thickness became a major issues as just to get paint flow from the brush I had to open the trigger up at least half way back.
After sitting over night the paint and thinner has seperated quite a bit on most of the thinners. Though some of the thinners show seperation the coloring in the seperated area is far better than some of the other thinners.
Some more pics.
I have added some blue lines on the left sides of the jar to point out the area of seperation. Some of the mixtures seperation cant be captured by the camera.
There are two things to take notice of from this picture.
1) All of the alcohol reducers have large paint chunks in them.
2) The 92% alcohol reducer shows different layers of chunks the closer you get to the top of the jar! I dont know if you can see this in the picture or not but it looks pretty nasty in person!!!
In this photo there is much to note other than how the peroxide has almost not seperation and the FasThinner has a lot of seperation but the seperated area has very good looking color. Another note about the FasThinner is the level of the paint on the bottom of the jar. It is by far the lowest of any of the thinners in the test. This indicates that a lot more paint is remaining is the seperated area around the middle of the jar!
Both the Fantastik and Windex show signs of seperation. Though each one is holding some paint in the seperated area the original color of the reducer is over powering the suspended paint in this area!
Time to shake things up.
After shaking I proceed to shoot the paint through my brushes.
First up was water. It sprayed decently through the .5 mm needle/nozzle of the Revolution but didnt do near as well through the .35mm needle of the Eclipse and plain hated life through the .2 mm needle of the AirPro PS1000. All in all the paint flowed decently and didnt have any major paint chunks but you would need to water the paint down quite a bit to get it to flow good through both of the smaller brushes and at that point I think it would be to wet to get fine detail with it.
All of the alcohol reducers seemed to make the paint gummy. The Denatured Alcohol and the 70% Isopropoly Alcohol both thinned the paint but the 92% Alcohol made the paint turn into cottage cheese! Alcohol could be used as a reducer but you would want to stay with the 70% Isopropoly or Denatured Alcohol. I would also recommend adding a little water into them to help thin the paint a little more and keep the clotting of the paint down. I was not able to spray any of the alcohol reduced paints through my AirPro's .2mm needle and I wouldnt attempt to spray the 92% Ispropoly Alcohol reduced paint through any of my brushes. Here are the pics.
Next we have the Windex. I was able to get the paint through all three brushes with the Windex but there was much more tip dry with this reducer which lead to some paint flow issues.
I should also note I was able to spray paint from the brushes at a hair over 15 psi.
Fantastik was my preferred thinner heading into this little project. It preformed much like I remembered it preforming. Giving me good paint flow, not a lot of tip dry, but it leaves a somewhat of a funky smell behind. Again the pressure on all brushes was around 15 psi. The Fantastik reduced paint didnt suffer as much tip dry as the windex. It also seemed to be a little thinner paint which can be seen in the picture as some of the lines wanted to spider web on me.
Peroxide surprised me the most out of all of these thinners. It was one just something that was sitting beside the 70% alcohol in the bathroom so I grabbed it and decided to include it in the test.
It actually preformed very well allowing the paint to flow freely from all three brushes and even being a little on the thin side causing the paint to spider web at times, while being shot at a hair under 15 psi.
Next comes the FasThinner. It was the only manufacture produced thinner in the test. It actually preformed almost exactly like the peroxide but seemed to allow the paint to flash just a little quicker than the peroxide.
And a late entry into the project was Future.
I had not heard of this product being used as a reducer until today. I must say I am very glad that I did! With the same ratio of 2 to 1 as all the other reducers had the Future had the smoothest paint flow of all the reducers. I noticed no tip dry what so ever!!! The paint takes a little longer to dry than most of the other reducers tested but I do beleive I could live with it based on the way it preformed.
Of all the reducers test this was the only reducer that go below 10psi on the spraying pressure and still flowed very well.
I did not follow the recommend directions of paint/water/future ratio but instead went with a straight paint/future mixture and it seemed to work just fine. Coming in a $6 for 27floz it is much cheaper than the Parma FasThinner would be at the same volume. It preforms every bit as well and in the ratio being tested, actually better than the FasThinner.
Fine sub pencil size lines where no problems out of any of the brushes! Again I must say that there was no tip dry what so ever while doing the test sprays. Future and FasThinner were the only two that didnt have tip dry while spraying.
Here are some pics of the future thinned paint.
In closing there are several things that can be used from your home to thin with. Water, Alcohol, Windex, Fantastik, Future , even Peroxide! When comparing these home brew thinners to Parma's FasThinner there are only two that come close to giving the same or better preformance for your paint. Those were Peroxide and Future.
Water will work to thin your paints but it may require a large amount to get the paint thin enough for fine detail and at that point you may have to much water in the paint to be able to effectively spray it.
I would not recommend any of the alcohol thinners on their own. Though they work they seem to cause some problems with the paint wanting to chunk up as well as excessive tip dry.
Fantastik and Windex also work really well for home brew thinning. Both will reduce the paint nicely and give you a much better flowing paint but each cause some tip dry issues.
Peroxide and Future both give you good paint reduction and flow with little to no tip dry! They are also some of the cheapest of the items by volume in this test.
If you dont want to spend the money on a commercial thinner then you can find items around your home to thin with and hopefully after this little project you will now have a little better idea of what items to steer clear of as well as some to try.
Hope this helps someone.
12-19-2009, 08:21 PM
#21
Tech Rookie
Thanks for all you work on this. How did you find the clean-up after using the Future.
Thanks
Thanks
12-19-2009, 08:37 PM
#22
12-19-2009, 10:21 PM
#23
Like the other guy said i will be intreasted ob the bond with futra if you paint a shell with it or pratice lexax will you let us know it you notice cracking or flaking of and sort on a larger scale . Thanks for the info and making my life as a newb a little less headache filled lol.
12-19-2009, 11:07 PM
#24
I will be working on a late model shell for myself tomorrow, unless something comes up.
As soon as I know more I will let you guys know about it.
As soon as I know more I will let you guys know about it.
12-20-2009, 11:34 AM
#25
wow im suprised at the results with the future floor wax stuff! talk about comming out of left feild!!
thans man! you really turned this thread into a great one! im eally hoping one of the mods will sticky this. now i know what i'll be recommending when the question is asked again!
FLOOR WAX!! haha
thans man! you really turned this thread into a great one! im eally hoping one of the mods will sticky this. now i know what i'll be recommending when the question is asked again!
FLOOR WAX!! haha
12-20-2009, 04:30 PM
#27
ok lets see what we gots? bleach hmmm hydrogen peroxide check gasoline check ammonia check pack of cigarettes check
ok guys i'll let you know what i find!!
lmao j/k
ok guys i'll let you know what i find!!
lmao j/k
12-20-2009, 04:46 PM
#28
OMG
what a long post for absolutly nothing...
Use the new Auto-born paint and thin it with the auto-air 4011 flash reducer.
All your problems goes away
I've paint this with auto air and auto born reduce with 4011 flash, with a Iwata HP-B+ airbrush.
what a long post for absolutly nothing...Use the new Auto-born paint and thin it with the auto-air 4011 flash reducer.
All your problems goes away
I've paint this with auto air and auto born reduce with 4011 flash, with a Iwata HP-B+ airbrush.
12-20-2009, 04:54 PM
#29
You have missed the entire point of the this thread dakamat.
This isnt for pro painters or artist that paint on a regular basis.
This thread is meant for the people that paint one or two bodies a year!
If you do a search you will see this question has popped up hundreds of times over the last few years and it is always from someone just getting into painting.
Until I did this project I would have agreed with you as far as just get the 4011 or 4010 reducers. I have some of the Parma reducer, which I have been told is the 4011 repackaged.
After doing this project I believe the Future is very promising and fully intend on giving it a try on my next body. As long as it cures and the paint adheres to the body properly I will actually recommend it over the 4011, 4010 or FasThinner as you can get a much larger quantity for much less!!!
I would encourage you to try it on your next project and you might be surprised at how well it actually preforms!!!
In any case hopefully this will be helpful to the new comers that dont want to spend a lot of money to paint a shell or two when they can use items around the house to prepare the paint for spraying.
By the way killer hood.