wely324

iTrader: (4)

Anyone know of any good instructional videos or articles that go over taping and or cutting out liquid masks? I also have seen pre cut vinyl masks, I assume you would have to tape off the entire body to use them vs a liquid mask?

I have a paint scheme I’m trying to do, not overly complicated I think, the issue I’m having is cutting out the lines with a smooth straight edge?

cartmen34

iTrader: (2)

I had the same problem. I couldn't get a straight edge no matter what I tried. I've seen some painters take the xacto blade out of the knife and just hold it in the tip of their fingers. Some will wrap tape around the blade 'handle' to make it easier to hold. None of these tips worked for me. The hardest part (for me) was cutting a straight edge for the windows in the tight confines of a 1/10 scale buggy body. Make a smooth transition around body edges was also difficult for me. I was never satisfied with my results using liquid mask.

I finally gave up and bought a self-healing craft mat and some professional 3m automotive masking tape. I cut my designs out on the mat then apply the masking tape to the body. I get nice smooth transitions and straight lines. I'm very far from a pro but I get good enough results for me. YMMV.

wely324

iTrader: (4)

I might need to try the automotive masking tape. I tried painters tape and didn’t get the best results. I think this paint job came out much better yet an my last one but still need to remember a few things that effect the fine details of well finished paint job.
I just need to back it with flex seal then I’ll cut it out.

cartmen34

iTrader: (2)

Yeah painters tape isn't great. It doesn't stick well.

I use 3m automotive refinish tape. (Amazon link). Good stiction, is relatively easy to cut, and sticks to small curves and corners really well. My only advice is to cut your own straight edges. The edges of the roll I got was a little mangled. Otherwise it works great.

markarch

One tip I would suggest is cutting out the body first before painting. That allows you to get into the body better when cutting out your design. I always cut out before painting so I can really get into the shell to make my cuts. Another thing that I do is once I apply enough coats of the liquid mask, I lightly, very lightly spray the whole thing with white. I make sure I can still see my design through the light coat of white. This allows you to really see the cuts you are making as they cut through the white paint. That has helped a lot with making straight cuts and seeing where the transitions are around tight designs as you start and stop your cuts. But the best tip is really just to practice a lot until you get the hang of cutting smoothly.

TurnNBurn

Oh, I totally agree! I’ve always done this over the years that I have been in and out of the hobby. I’d hate the thought of having an awesome paint job ruined by a bad trim, lol. Of course, the tools to aid in that are a lot better now than30 years ago, but old habits die hard.

Jblack45

I use frisked film and have good results.

shortcut3d

iTrader: (1)

I’ve painted a few 1/10 bodies now and the prep is taking me forever. There must be a secret to the outlines or trim lines or whatever they’re called that are so popular now days. I’m using liquid mask and draw the design on the over spray film with a sharpie. Then I use Tamiya 2, 3 or 4mm pin stripe masking tape and follow the line I want to have an outline. Then I cut the liquid mask using the pin stripe masking tape as a guide for the outlines. This gives me fairly consistent lines that are sharp but takes forever (essentially double masking time).

How are people doing it? I can’t image outlines with a sharpie. I find the fine points don’t draw well on the bodies and the even the bitty design pen is too thick for 3mm lines, the design would be difficult to follow and cut with all the heavy marker on a 1/10 scale buggy.

shortcut3d

iTrader: (1)

This thread is about prep, but I had a question about sealing and protecting. I’ve been using bedliner but I see other post that flex seal is great too. Where’s the jury on these two sealing backers. I’m 1/10 electric so just trying to prevent scratches and make the paint job last longer.