Found my dad's old airbrush
09-08-2008, 11:29 AM
#1
Found my dad's old airbrush
We have just moved house and I unearthed my dad's never used Badger 150 airbrush. He never got round to using it so he's given it to me. I have never used one either.
So yesterday we finally decided to try and get it to work. We bought some propellant, paints and Badger cleaner. Apparently the paints don't need to be thinned but I am confused because they weren't exactly great paint. We need a regulator for the propellant.
I'm just asking for some tips and help on simple painting. thanks, Jacob.
So yesterday we finally decided to try and get it to work. We bought some propellant, paints and Badger cleaner. Apparently the paints don't need to be thinned but I am confused because they weren't exactly great paint. We need a regulator for the propellant.
I'm just asking for some tips and help on simple painting. thanks, Jacob.
09-13-2008, 07:40 PM
#2
The best answer I can give you is
www.cfxpaintworks.com
Go there and read, read, read and read some more. When you think you have the knowledge you need then ask some questions and shoot some paint.
www.cfxpaintworks.com
Go there and read, read, read and read some more. When you think you have the knowledge you need then ask some questions and shoot some paint.
09-14-2008, 12:32 AM
#3
Firstly the propellant is a bit of a waste of money. If money allows, buy yourself a cheap compressor with a regulator. You'll thank yourself later.
There's no longer a home page for rctech so here is a link Haunted Myst RC Painting and Airbrushing
There's no longer a home page for rctech so here is a link Haunted Myst RC Painting and Airbrushing
09-14-2008, 10:13 PM
#4
My Badger brand using days are long past but, as I remember you don't need a "regulator" for the badger canned propellant. In fact the pressure you'll get from a can is barely enough to atomize most "paints". I have used canned propellant with "inks" in a pinch, with reasonable success. All you need is the valve that screws on to the can and the hose that attaches to it.
Also the badger brand paints are not suitable for much besides paper and fabrics. You can find Faskolor paints (which I don't like much but they work) for lexan bodies at many hobby shops. I like urethane based paints personally, but try some waterbornes, like Faskolor before you get into all that. Whatever you use, consider at LEAST a good particle mask for water based paints and a respirator for the hard stuff. Also a well ventilated area is absolutely necessary. The bager brand cleaner isn't worth the money either. But you will have to keep your airbrush clean. Plain water works with water based badger paints, as long as you don't let them dry in the airbrush, and after a while you'll just have to disassemble it to give it a good cleaning.
And yes as ashley said, get yourself a compressor. Cheap can cover a lot of territory. I wouldn't buy a poorly built compressor for any price. But if you're on a tight budget, this
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=94724
is actually a decent light duty compressor. And you can sometimes find it on sale for 69 bucks. It will be noisier than an airbrush specific compressor though. There are a lot of "airbrush specific" compressors out there, but they can be quite costly at an art supply shop and don't have very big tanks if any at all. (there's nothing more irritating than a compressor that runs constantly) You can find a million and one uses for an air compressor, so you should consider a good one. And for airbrushing you will need one with an adjustable regulator on the supply/outlet.
*Here's a tip: Oil-less compressors are considered throw away items. A good oil-splash compressor will last for more years than you'll care to continue airbrushing. The larger the tank/tanks the more you'll be able to spray without the compressor running*
While we're on the subject of compressed air, do NOT run your Badger at more than 40 psi. Just use enough pressure to sufficiently atomize your media. 15-25 psi should work fine for the badger paints. It won't explode or anything as dramatic as that but you can blow the seals out of it.*this won't be an issue with canned propellant, as the pressure is very low*
On the subject of thinning; most paints will say "do not thin" for various reasons (I won't get into that here) but the truth is you may need to thin your paint, depending on the result/effect you're looking for.
North Light graphic workbooks used to have packets called "Airbrush Techniques". Workbook #1 was "Basic Skills". Available at most art supply stores. That, an exacto knife, and a package of frisket film will get you started.
Airbrushing can be fun, rewarding, challenging and frustrating. Hope this helps get you started. If you have any more questions, feel free to ask.
Also the badger brand paints are not suitable for much besides paper and fabrics. You can find Faskolor paints (which I don't like much but they work) for lexan bodies at many hobby shops. I like urethane based paints personally, but try some waterbornes, like Faskolor before you get into all that. Whatever you use, consider at LEAST a good particle mask for water based paints and a respirator for the hard stuff. Also a well ventilated area is absolutely necessary. The bager brand cleaner isn't worth the money either. But you will have to keep your airbrush clean. Plain water works with water based badger paints, as long as you don't let them dry in the airbrush, and after a while you'll just have to disassemble it to give it a good cleaning.
And yes as ashley said, get yourself a compressor. Cheap can cover a lot of territory. I wouldn't buy a poorly built compressor for any price. But if you're on a tight budget, this
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=94724
is actually a decent light duty compressor. And you can sometimes find it on sale for 69 bucks. It will be noisier than an airbrush specific compressor though. There are a lot of "airbrush specific" compressors out there, but they can be quite costly at an art supply shop and don't have very big tanks if any at all. (there's nothing more irritating than a compressor that runs constantly) You can find a million and one uses for an air compressor, so you should consider a good one. And for airbrushing you will need one with an adjustable regulator on the supply/outlet.
*Here's a tip: Oil-less compressors are considered throw away items. A good oil-splash compressor will last for more years than you'll care to continue airbrushing. The larger the tank/tanks the more you'll be able to spray without the compressor running*
While we're on the subject of compressed air, do NOT run your Badger at more than 40 psi. Just use enough pressure to sufficiently atomize your media. 15-25 psi should work fine for the badger paints. It won't explode or anything as dramatic as that but you can blow the seals out of it.*this won't be an issue with canned propellant, as the pressure is very low*
On the subject of thinning; most paints will say "do not thin" for various reasons (I won't get into that here) but the truth is you may need to thin your paint, depending on the result/effect you're looking for.
North Light graphic workbooks used to have packets called "Airbrush Techniques". Workbook #1 was "Basic Skills". Available at most art supply stores. That, an exacto knife, and a package of frisket film will get you started.
Airbrushing can be fun, rewarding, challenging and frustrating. Hope this helps get you started. If you have any more questions, feel free to ask.
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