U.S. Vintage Trans-Am [PICS & PAINT Discussion ONLY!!!]
#5296
Quick question guys: which VTA bodies are the sturdiest?
The reason I ask, I ordered a Challenger body from Tower (my first body) and this thing is horribly thin, especially the nose. It's the flimsiest body I've ever had my hands on. Maybe I'm just spoiled by off-road bodies?
The reason I ask, I ordered a Challenger body from Tower (my first body) and this thing is horribly thin, especially the nose. It's the flimsiest body I've ever had my hands on. Maybe I'm just spoiled by off-road bodies?
Sturdiest? The HPI 68 Camaro is much thicker in the nose and rounded a bit so it doesn't catch as many corner dents. A lot of guys run it for that reason. Its heavier though. In my personal experience (and I'm really good at catching corners and contacting walls), the McAllister 1970 Trans Am has held up the best of any I've owned. Its been my longest lasting body. And, it looks good on the track too. Their new Camaro may be just as good. I've not tried it.
#5297
Tech Adept
iTrader: (10)
Quick question guys: which VTA bodies are the sturdiest?
The reason I ask, I ordered a Challenger body from Tower (my first body) and this thing is horribly thin, especially the nose. It's the flimsiest body I've ever had my hands on. Maybe I'm just spoiled by off-road bodies?
The reason I ask, I ordered a Challenger body from Tower (my first body) and this thing is horribly thin, especially the nose. It's the flimsiest body I've ever had my hands on. Maybe I'm just spoiled by off-road bodies?
#5298
Tech Addict
This is a PROTOform Trans Am. Beautiful body before you paint it. The colors and scheme were selected by a local racer friend. I think he's going to like it! The black numbers with silver outlines were cut from liquid mask. They show up, but aren't loud. I think its a good scheme.
http://usvsc.webs.com
#5299
More Trans Am bodies!
I airbrushed this one over the weekend for a local racer. Its a McAllister Trans Am body. We were trying to match up with the SD-455 version. I wish I had some decals that matched that. Still, I got the body close. The light blue chrome was a mix of Faskrome and Pearl Blue.
It looks a little bare for VTA without numbers, but he will add those. He couldn't decide on them in time to get them done in paint. I'm real happy with the two color firebird logo. I cut that carefully with liquid mask and my trusty X-Acto.
I airbrushed this one over the weekend for a local racer. Its a McAllister Trans Am body. We were trying to match up with the SD-455 version. I wish I had some decals that matched that. Still, I got the body close. The light blue chrome was a mix of Faskrome and Pearl Blue.
It looks a little bare for VTA without numbers, but he will add those. He couldn't decide on them in time to get them done in paint. I'm real happy with the two color firebird logo. I cut that carefully with liquid mask and my trusty X-Acto.
#5300
Tech Champion
iTrader: (2)
Quick question guys: which VTA bodies are the sturdiest?
The reason I ask, I ordered a Challenger body from Tower (my first body) and this thing is horribly thin, especially the nose. It's the flimsiest body I've ever had my hands on. Maybe I'm just spoiled by off-road bodies?
The reason I ask, I ordered a Challenger body from Tower (my first body) and this thing is horribly thin, especially the nose. It's the flimsiest body I've ever had my hands on. Maybe I'm just spoiled by off-road bodies?
This is a PROTOform Trans Am. Beautiful body before you paint it. The colors and scheme were selected by a local racer friend. I think he's going to like it! The black numbers with silver outlines were cut from liquid mask. They show up, but aren't loud. I think its a good scheme.
#5301
OK, since the thread is 5300 posts long and I've searched the first 500 with no luck, does anyone remember the 68 Firebird that was done off of an HPI 68 Camaro body? Anyone have any pics of one done similarly?
Byrdman
Byrdman
#5302
Tech Elite
iTrader: (9)
That person stated that it was a one-off part and that he was unable to produce any additional parts.
Here is a link on this thread showing pics of the body in question (http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...t-2-a-138.html)
Apparently the person who did it is referred to as Jonny Socko. Not sure if that is his username or real name. You might try contacting Rob King and see if he has any more info.
#5305
Had a good time racing at Indy RC Raceway last night. A 68 Camaro body I airbrushed a couple of years ago showed up! I'd not seen it since I made it. Turns out, its not been run because he didn't want to tear it up.
It's been a show body at home I guess. I mess up my own bodies racing them, but there are a few I save because they were so much work. I like the long flames on this Camaro. They look good on that body.
It's been a show body at home I guess. I mess up my own bodies racing them, but there are a few I save because they were so much work. I like the long flames on this Camaro. They look good on that body.
#5306
Tech Elite
iTrader: (9)
Below is another picture of the McAllister Trans Am that Indyhobbies.com painted for another racer here in Indy. I was able to find some blue chrome wheels off Amazon that are a pretty good match for the body. I was able to get 4 wheels/tires (in the same package) for a good price.
Here is info on the wheels - www.Kforce-Racing.com - the wheel part# is 10365 and the tire part# is 21006. Here is a page on their website that has a gold version of the wheel in my pic that would look good on a black Trans AM (http://kforce-racing.com/products.as...id=1&pageno=14)
The front end decals are made by RCTECH user SWTOUR. He has several different decal sets for the McAllister bodies.
Here is info on the wheels - www.Kforce-Racing.com - the wheel part# is 10365 and the tire part# is 21006. Here is a page on their website that has a gold version of the wheel in my pic that would look good on a black Trans AM (http://kforce-racing.com/products.as...id=1&pageno=14)
The front end decals are made by RCTECH user SWTOUR. He has several different decal sets for the McAllister bodies.
#5308
Those stickers are nice. They make it easy to dress up the front end. The blue wheels look great!
#5309
Well, I finally get back on the track tonight. First time racing RC in almost 20 years.
Nothing fancy, just a TC4...but we'll see how rusty I am. Seriously considering getting a yellow stripe for the bumper...
Went with a rather (in)famous paint scheme, but stayed with my number; it was what my dad raced when he was dirt-tracking around the Carolinas in the 60s.
Also, thought I'd point out how I did the nose reinforcement...I used the 'Great Stuff' in the red can to back up the nose, but I draped a piece of Saran Wrap over the front of the car (poked the body posts through, covered the tires and bumper) and pressed it onto the body posts after SPARINGLY spraying the foam into the corner at the hood and grill, and around to the fenders. I let it set overnight and cure; pulled it off, did a little trimming around the tires and the transponder, and now its VERY solid, without much added weight.
With the shorty battery, it is right at 1552g, and corner weights are within .5% with my brass weights in place. If I use my full-size 2s SMCs, I take the 77g weight out of the battery tray and it is 1558g. Cross-weights take a plunge (more than 2% difference), but it will be good enough to practice with.
Anywho...just thought I'd throw it into the mix!
Byrdman
Nothing fancy, just a TC4...but we'll see how rusty I am. Seriously considering getting a yellow stripe for the bumper...
Went with a rather (in)famous paint scheme, but stayed with my number; it was what my dad raced when he was dirt-tracking around the Carolinas in the 60s.
Also, thought I'd point out how I did the nose reinforcement...I used the 'Great Stuff' in the red can to back up the nose, but I draped a piece of Saran Wrap over the front of the car (poked the body posts through, covered the tires and bumper) and pressed it onto the body posts after SPARINGLY spraying the foam into the corner at the hood and grill, and around to the fenders. I let it set overnight and cure; pulled it off, did a little trimming around the tires and the transponder, and now its VERY solid, without much added weight.
With the shorty battery, it is right at 1552g, and corner weights are within .5% with my brass weights in place. If I use my full-size 2s SMCs, I take the 77g weight out of the battery tray and it is 1558g. Cross-weights take a plunge (more than 2% difference), but it will be good enough to practice with.
Anywho...just thought I'd throw it into the mix!
Byrdman