U.S. Vintage Trans-Am [PICS & PAINT Discussion ONLY!!!]
#5251
I've been working on this new one for my son. Its a McAllister Trans Am. Finished photos coming soon.
He loves the old flame jobs. They are period correct, but likely not VTA correct. (I remember going to lots of hot rod shows in the 70's and many of the show cars had flames.) Still, if it gets him out to the track, I'm happy to paint just about any scheme for him.
The "Vandalizer" is for a Mini Cooper driver. That's a ProtoFORM body called a "SoCal Panel Wagon" just for minis. Sweet, sweet body.
He loves the old flame jobs. They are period correct, but likely not VTA correct. (I remember going to lots of hot rod shows in the 70's and many of the show cars had flames.) Still, if it gets him out to the track, I'm happy to paint just about any scheme for him.
The "Vandalizer" is for a Mini Cooper driver. That's a ProtoFORM body called a "SoCal Panel Wagon" just for minis. Sweet, sweet body.
#5252
Indy....you do such nice work. Flames on a black car is the only way to go. That paint job will probably make him drive faster too.....LOL
I like the flames lapping into the windows.
I like the flames lapping into the windows.
#5253
Thanks. I enjoy airbrushing when I get time. Its one of my favorite aspects of this hobby.
I finished this one for a lucky guy who's wife ordered it for him for Christmas. Great wife! Its the ProtoForm Trans Am, and she sent me the real life prototype photo to match up to. Simple and clean looking I think. That blue is spectacular! Straight from the bottle that color is dynamite.
I finished this one for a lucky guy who's wife ordered it for him for Christmas. Great wife! Its the ProtoForm Trans Am, and she sent me the real life prototype photo to match up to. Simple and clean looking I think. That blue is spectacular! Straight from the bottle that color is dynamite.
#5259
I use three coats of Fasmask by the way. Nothing worse than using too little. When you do that its a pain to remove from the body.
#5260
Here's the body I airbrushed Christmas Eve for my son. Its a McAllister Trans Am mounted on his Associated TC3. Lots of flames and attitude... exactly what he wanted. It's all paint at this point. I might add a few decals. We'll see.
I know its not quite the right look for VTA. The Bodies by Bean examples above are the proper VTA look for sure. Still, I do like how this turned out.
I know its not quite the right look for VTA. The Bodies by Bean examples above are the proper VTA look for sure. Still, I do like how this turned out.
#5261
Tech Addict
iTrader: (5)
I just used a liquid mask and left that in place until the blue was done. Then, I removed the mask to do the chrome silver. You have to be gentle with your X-acto blade to cut the outline, but there's a definite edge there for the blade to follow so it wasn't too hard. Need bright light for sure to see in there.
I use three coats of Fasmask by the way. Nothing worse than using too little. When you do that its a pain to remove from the body.
I use three coats of Fasmask by the way. Nothing worse than using too little. When you do that its a pain to remove from the body.
#5262
Tech Fanatic
So much awesomeness in this thread.
The skeleton driving Indy's son's Firebird is hilarious!
The skeleton driving Indy's son's Firebird is hilarious!
#5263
Tech Elite
iTrader: (9)
I'm a rattle can + masking tape painter. On some bodies it can be a pain to mask/paint some areas from the inside (of the body). Another painter in this forum suggested painting those areas on the OUTSIDE of the body.
Areas like the bumpers, front grill, matte hood, rear spoiler, etc can be a lot easier to paint from the outside. If you are going for a flat/matte finish, you can just simply apply the color paint you desire and be done (such as a flat black hood or flat silver bumpers). In areas that might see a lot of abuse, there are clear paints that can be used as a sealant - such as Rust-oleum Ultra Cover Clear paints (gloss, satin, or matte). Here are some links
matte - (http://www.rustoleum.com/product-cat...over-2x/clear/)
clear - (http://www.homedepot.com/p/Rust-Oleu...9117/100670438)
IndyHobbies.com told me about the Rust-oleum paint and it does a good job protecting paint on the outside or inside of a body. I was even able to use a mild cleaner on the matte clear and it didn't affect the finish or dissolve the paint. My only suggestion if you use this paint is to make sure you apply in light coats and make sure you let it dry between applications.
Not all of us have the talent or time of the best painters in this thread. Don't be afraid to experiment or try some time saving techniques on your next race body. Even if you make a mistake, you can always tell everyone at the track that the end result was just what your were going for.
Areas like the bumpers, front grill, matte hood, rear spoiler, etc can be a lot easier to paint from the outside. If you are going for a flat/matte finish, you can just simply apply the color paint you desire and be done (such as a flat black hood or flat silver bumpers). In areas that might see a lot of abuse, there are clear paints that can be used as a sealant - such as Rust-oleum Ultra Cover Clear paints (gloss, satin, or matte). Here are some links
matte - (http://www.rustoleum.com/product-cat...over-2x/clear/)
clear - (http://www.homedepot.com/p/Rust-Oleu...9117/100670438)
IndyHobbies.com told me about the Rust-oleum paint and it does a good job protecting paint on the outside or inside of a body. I was even able to use a mild cleaner on the matte clear and it didn't affect the finish or dissolve the paint. My only suggestion if you use this paint is to make sure you apply in light coats and make sure you let it dry between applications.
Not all of us have the talent or time of the best painters in this thread. Don't be afraid to experiment or try some time saving techniques on your next race body. Even if you make a mistake, you can always tell everyone at the track that the end result was just what your were going for.
#5265
Tech Addict
iTrader: (5)
(snip*) Not all of us have the talent or time of the best painters in this thread. Don't be afraid to experiment or try some time saving techniques on your next race body. Even if you make a mistake, you can always tell everyone at the track that the end result was just what your were going for.
You know, I'm a old school 1/12 racer from back in the day when Lexan paint was hard to come by. I use to use regular rattle can enamel and then back it with urethane clear. This worked very well considering.