moparSRT

I mark the post locations, paint, cut, drill and mount. I find it easier to mask and lay out designs when the body is not cut out.

snoopyrc

iTrader: (2)

I'm reading all of your post about this and just thinking about the race when this pretty good sized fella fell out on to the track and my car. Since then the post have been wonky. I don't think can go through this body painting process again until I have some straight body post. They just play too big of a reference for me.

fermanracer

iTrader: (37)

I do everything backwards. It works for me. Lol

IndyHobbies.com

I always cut bodies out before I paint them too. You get a much better fit and post location. And, you can sand the edges (to reduce cracking) with out fear of scratching anything. Body scissors scratch up a finished paint job too. It's almost unavoidable on wheel wells

fermanracer

iTrader: (37)

you do things backwards to. but it works.

SWTour

iTrader: (9)

Posting pics for a New Member RATTLEKAN

Here ya go man!

Rodarbal

iTrader: (49)

That McStang is looking pretty good!

Lol, I trim my bodies prior to painting as well. But I only do it if I have the chassis that it's going to be mounted on in hand. If I'm painting a body for someone else often I don't have that luxury.

dodgeboy

iTrader: (1)

Have a technical question. I'm trying to dye some rims. I just melted my first set and there is not realy any color on them.
How do I do this??

DarthRacer

iTrader: (8)

They have to by nylon based.

Bring a pot of water to a boil, maybe about a gallon. Turn it down to just a simmer, add Rit dye color of your choice (powder and liquids both work), and drop your wheels in. I like to tie them on a string and hang them from a spoon on top of the pot so I can pull them out easily. Check them every min until they have taken the amount of color you want. Rinse them off in cold water when done.

dodgeboy

iTrader: (1)

Ok thanks for the info. I'll try it with the set I screwed up already. ie melted

.crispy

I use the smallest glass (corning) dish that will hold the wheels. That way I can keep the dye to water ratio correct without wasting it. I use about half a bottle of the liquid eyes time I dye. I use glass because it can't be stained by the dye.

But I don't boil the water. No need. Just get it really hot. Dye takes just fine.

BTW, I've noticed different sets of HPI white wheels are different colors of white. There are some that are bright white and some a little more yellow. I only dye wheels that start off the same because they won't take the color the same.

IndyHobbies.com

I've always wondered if you could dye a lexan body, then paint it. Would look nice on windows. I used to dye RC airplane canopies all the time, but I don't know if they were lexan. Anybody tried this?

mooby64

iTrader: (3)

I would think that dying a body might work, BUT......How could you mask off the areas the you do not want colored?

IndyHobbies.com

I don't think you could mask them off. You'd just have to compensate for the tinted color with colors that worked behind the tinted if that makes sense. In other words, you couldn't do bright white, but bright white would yield gray behind a charcoal tint.

You'd have to play with it and understand that backing a blue tint with red would give you a purple body with transparent blue windows.

Here's what a tinted R/C airplane canopy looks like. These are just soaked in RIT dye. I need to experiment and see what's possible sometime.

The other pictures are of a buggy I saw elsewhere. Transparent candies used there. You can use those on the windows only too of course. To set it off.

IndyHobbies.com

I brought this up on the VTA paint forum about tinting windows, but I guess it probably belongs in the custom paint area more. Sorry about that.