IndyHobbies.com

Thanks ASM! We were going to try to lightly spray some side scallops to match the Charger, but if it didn't look right, it would spoil it. So, we held off. He's thinking about a second one so that he can keep one nice body for display.

snoopyrc

iTrader: (2)

I was with you until you said 1/8th.

kwkride

iTrader: (6)

Me to . . . . .

ASM

iTrader: (30)

Your work has insipired me to go ahead and start what I believe will be a pretty unique and period correct scheme for my Southern Nats body this year. I kinda tied in paint scheme that was used back in the early 70's at my hometown 1/8 mile oval track. Got paintinpete on the job

Thanks for the inspiration!!

IndyHobbies.com

Finished this one today for a VTA racer. He wanted a "YENKO Camaro" which was a super high powered version of the Camaro you could buy. Some of you may remember from back in the day. If you google "Yenko Camaro", you will learn about the history. Real ones sell for a pretty penny now!

He didn't send along the decals or the rear spoiler. He said he didnt run the spoiler. I custom mixed the paint to match that era. I think I'm pretty close. Rockstar helped me with masks (thanks!).

18to88

iTrader: (4)

Yes sir that one is mine. I did not see any Yenko's and I know that they never raced in VTA. But they are so much a part of that era, so I thought why not......
I think Scott did a fantastic job!

NutDriver

iTrader: (30)

Here is a question for the painters in the group. I am wanting to do a matte black paint scheme, but I want to paint the body on the inside. How do I make the finish matte?
(Yes, I know that painting it on the outside will basically do that, but that's not what I want to do)

Scott

freebird

iTrader: (3)

color on the inside; flat clear the outside.

snoopyrc

iTrader: (2)

Yep. Tamiya has a clear frost that works well. If you use factory decals then you should decide if you want them to be matte finish or not. If you do then paint them as well.

Tommy R

iTrader: (21)

Guys, he said he wants the paint on the inside. Honestly, I'm not sure what you could do to achieve a flat or satin finish on the outside with only paint on the inside. Maybe lightly media blast the painted sections on the inside prior to paint? I really don't know if you have many options?

NutDriver

iTrader: (30)

Thank you for the responses. While TommyR is correct as to what I posted, I did get the answer that I was looking for. Thank you all. ☺

Aaron P

iTrader: (3)

You can also scuff up the areas you want to look flat with Scotchbrite or a lite sand paper. Then, flat black spray paint. This gives a decent flat look, but for best results, do this for both the inside AND outside. The inside coat hides the scratches that happen on the outside.

IndyHobbies.com

Maybe a company that has a corn blaster. They use ground corn instead of sand to blast wood, jewelry and other delicate surfaces.

I have seen a method using a chemical that turned the glossy Lexan surface flat. I'm thinking it was something like finger nail polish remover? Sprayed on? Don't take my word for it. Hopefully someone else will remember. Basically, it melts the surface and then evaporates.

I know I've tried to use CA remover on Lexan before and it reacted with the surface. You'd have to spray it and hope you got an even reaction.

Tommy R

iTrader: (21)

Good point, Indy! I once used Goo Gone to remove adhesive residue from a lexan body and it left the surface very hazy. Might be tough to get a consistent finish, however.

IndyRC_Racer

iTrader: (9)

IN MY EXPERIENCE...
Regular Goo Gone that comes in a plastic bottle does NOT affect lexan bodies.


On the other hand...
GOOF OFF that comes in a metal can DOES react negatively with lexan bodies.

I made the mistake of trying to clean off some sticker residue with Goof Off in a window area and it fogged up the lexan.