Createx vs Parma
03-31-2008, 03:31 PM
#16
04-01-2008, 02:54 AM
#17
Tech Initiate
What
hello every body from spain.
I have one question about createx.
I have seen that there are several types of paintings, the auto-air, the normal ones.
What is the best to paint rc bodys?
I have one question about createx.
I have seen that there are several types of paintings, the auto-air, the normal ones.
What is the best to paint rc bodys?
04-04-2008, 10:10 PM
#19
Has anyone else had problems with fisheye from Parma/Createx paint? For me it seems to be the paint because I have some (possibly older) bottles that spray fine and some that are problematic. I've had it with white, fl. yellow and fl. orange so far. Was there a bad batch or something??? Thanks.
James
James
04-05-2008, 05:05 AM
#22
The Createx Auto Air line is supposed to be just as flexible as the Faskolor. It has flex agents and hardeners in it.
The Createx fabric airbrush paint doesn't work as well
I was told to thin with the auto air base. It is the same as the paint, but without any pigment.
The Createx fabric airbrush paint doesn't work as well
I was told to thin with the auto air base. It is the same as the paint, but without any pigment.
04-05-2008, 11:14 AM
#24
over the last 10 years or so I've painted dozens of bodies with both createx and Faskolor as well as autoair and to be honest they all work great I've never had any adhesion problems when the body was preped properly.
there is a difference between the Createx and Faskolor they start out pretty much the same the faskolor has some additives that help with adhesion to lexan. any flex additives pretty much dissapate as the paint dries so mostly a non issue, besides createx is a textile paint whats more flexable then a T-shirt?
As for backing the paint you can use several different products Createx makes a water based clear coat, Parma has Faskoat and there is always the rattle can clear you can get at most hardware stores. or just use a can of pactra spray paint white black or silver.
there is a difference between the Createx and Faskolor they start out pretty much the same the faskolor has some additives that help with adhesion to lexan. any flex additives pretty much dissapate as the paint dries so mostly a non issue, besides createx is a textile paint whats more flexable then a T-shirt?
As for backing the paint you can use several different products Createx makes a water based clear coat, Parma has Faskoat and there is always the rattle can clear you can get at most hardware stores. or just use a can of pactra spray paint white black or silver.
04-05-2008, 11:48 AM
#25
over the last 10 years or so I've painted dozens of bodies with both createx and Faskolor as well as autoair and to be honest they all work great I've never had any adhesion problems when the body was preped properly.
there is a difference between the Createx and Faskolor they start out pretty much the same the faskolor has some additives that help with adhesion to lexan. any flex additives pretty much dissapate as the paint dries so mostly a non issue, besides createx is a textile paint whats more flexable then a T-shirt?
As for backing the paint you can use several different products Createx makes a water based clear coat, Parma has Faskoat and there is always the rattle can clear you can get at most hardware stores. or just use a can of pactra spray paint white black or silver.
there is a difference between the Createx and Faskolor they start out pretty much the same the faskolor has some additives that help with adhesion to lexan. any flex additives pretty much dissapate as the paint dries so mostly a non issue, besides createx is a textile paint whats more flexable then a T-shirt?
As for backing the paint you can use several different products Createx makes a water based clear coat, Parma has Faskoat and there is always the rattle can clear you can get at most hardware stores. or just use a can of pactra spray paint white black or silver.
04-05-2008, 01:19 PM
#26
over the last 10 years or so I've painted dozens of bodies with both createx and Faskolor as well as autoair and to be honest they all work great I've never had any adhesion problems when the body was preped properly.
there is a difference between the Createx and Faskolor they start out pretty much the same the faskolor has some additives that help with adhesion to lexan. any flex additives pretty much dissapate as the paint dries so mostly a non issue, besides createx is a textile paint whats more flexable then a T-shirt?
As for backing the paint you can use several different products Createx makes a water based clear coat, Parma has Faskoat and there is always the rattle can clear you can get at most hardware stores. or just use a can of pactra spray paint white black or silver.
there is a difference between the Createx and Faskolor they start out pretty much the same the faskolor has some additives that help with adhesion to lexan. any flex additives pretty much dissapate as the paint dries so mostly a non issue, besides createx is a textile paint whats more flexable then a T-shirt?
As for backing the paint you can use several different products Createx makes a water based clear coat, Parma has Faskoat and there is always the rattle can clear you can get at most hardware stores. or just use a can of pactra spray paint white black or silver.
What do you do to prep the body? I've been scuffing it with grey scotchbrite, then washing it with hot water and a little dish soap, then rinsing it with filtered water to remove any of the harder tap water, and if it sits for any amount of time where it could have attracted dust, I clean with a tack rag. Anything there I should be doing different?
Rattle can clear eats Faskolor. I've tried both lacquer and enamel. Now i don't know about Pactra, but I know Duplicolor does, and they're both lacquer, so I assume Pactra will, and the Krylon type paints, both enamel and laquer, do as well. Urethane automotive clear eats it as well, even though they all claim they can be sprayed over water based paints.
I prefer the Createx clear by far over the Faskolor. It sprays much better. The difference between spraying water and spraying elmer's glue. At least for me. I used Faskolor once, took me 2 hours to get my brush clean. Createx, just rinsed with Windex had no problems.
04-05-2008, 02:35 PM
#27
To prep my bodies I just wash it out with hot water and dish soap (not steaming hot! just hot enough so you can keep your hands in it) rinse out well with cool water then repeat with the hot water and dish soap and rinse in cool water again. Wipe dry with a paper towel ( i use shop rags that come in a box of 200 I got at home depot). once the body is dry I spray it down with some denatured alcohol just a fine mist and wipe it down in sections I do that twice paying attention to all the lil crevices. Then as soon as the alcohol has evaporated I lay down the first coat of liquid mask hit with a hair dryer on med. and apply the next 3 coats of LM (I put it on really thin so it takes a bit more to get good coverage but it dries fairly quickly between coats).
I tend not to scuff my bodies since I prep them before I have even come up with a scheme 9 times out of 10. if I already have the scheme in mind then I'll scuff the body a bit I use 600 wet/dry sand paper and scuff very lightly, again mainly in the areas that will flex the most.
The rattle can clear works just fine as long as you allow the paint a day or two to fully cure and spray the clear on in very light misting coats for the first two passes other wise it will eat thru the paint if you try to do one heavy coat the solvents in the can will eat right down to the lexan.
I tend not to scuff my bodies since I prep them before I have even come up with a scheme 9 times out of 10. if I already have the scheme in mind then I'll scuff the body a bit I use 600 wet/dry sand paper and scuff very lightly, again mainly in the areas that will flex the most.
The rattle can clear works just fine as long as you allow the paint a day or two to fully cure and spray the clear on in very light misting coats for the first two passes other wise it will eat thru the paint if you try to do one heavy coat the solvents in the can will eat right down to the lexan.
04-08-2008, 07:35 PM
#29
i've been using createx for a couple months now. i've used parma in the past too. anyway, i sprayed my x1x truggy w/ createx (fabric paints) and beat the body to you know what w/o any problems. createx flexes just fine.
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