I still get a link to "construction.html" off of your main page. I am trying to update the Tech homepage with the painting contest info (finally!) but I need to make sure I have the rules and everything correct.
__________________ futureal@rctech.net | ampdraw hobbies | ampdraw: power your hobby
I updated the front page anyway last night, check it out (http://www.rctech.net) and let me know if it looks about right. I had the email address as picture@kthobbies.com as well, I wanted to double-check that it was correct.
Thanks!
__________________ futureal@rctech.net | ampdraw hobbies | ampdraw: power your hobby
The Entries look Awesome so far! We have decided to move the cut off entry date to 6/18/02 to give people more time. So, with that said, Bring on the Paintjobs!!!
Guess what?! There are more entries! We are up to page 2 so if any of you are having problems just let me know and I will work on fixing them. Thanks for looking and remember there still is time to enter!
Oh if you are going to mail me a photo please email me and let me know it is coming. Thanks
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I started with nothing and I have most of it left.
here is a stupid question that may have already been asked...is fakolor fuel proof, and if not, what if you back it up with fascoat, does that make it fuelproof? help please!!Thanks
Parma's literature claims Faskolor to be fuelproof for up to 30% nitro fuels. I've always backed Faskolor with a coat of Pactra spray can white if the body was going on a Nitro car. Not that I don't trust Parma, just habit.
Originally posted by ImGoinRCn here is a stupid question that may have already been asked...is fakolor fuel proof, and if not, what if you back it up with fascoat, does that make it fuelproof? help please!!Thanks
Faskolor is fuel proof to a point, especially so after a week. I wash out my bodies with a quick stream of hot water then shake-em dry and let them sit-UNTOUCHED. I dont wipe them out when wet!!! I have noticed traction compound, rubber, oil, etc. come out with plain old hot water very well. I just wipe out the windows so they dont have spots on them.
So more in detail, I let tap water get hot first, hold body by rear and wash out body from back (wing area) to front. This way I can get all that rubber out of the rear wing area like on my 12th scale and 1/8th On-road bodies. Teh shake excess water out and let air dry.
And yes, FASKOTE is a great way to coat underside of bodies.One more tip-If you are painting a body to be used tomorrow-better put a coat of Faskote on it and dry it very well from coat to coat with a hairdryer. If you arent using the body for a few weeks, skip the cover coat and save weight, save smell, save material!!!!
Also has anyone come up with any solid differences between the "R" version of Alcad and the regular stuff? I haven't tried the "R" version yet, and have had good luck with the regular stuff- so what's the big deal?