Blakesrc

iTrader: (26)

Hey guys, well I used fastcolor for the first time and have had a major problem. I painted a new body last MONTH and have only used it 2x. The other night, before raceday, I noticed a lot of tire dust on the underside and as I always have with pactra, I sprayed a little windex on the windows. The over spray hit the paint and man oh man the paint just wiped right off! I stuck the body in the sink for a couple of hours and the all the paint rubbed right off by hand. Is this normal since the paint is water based or did I do something incorrectly? I only thinned it a tiny bit when i sprayed it on, like just a couple of drops mixed in a small pactra size bottle. Also, the day after I painted this body, I noticed that the paint lifted off the body in spots and as the race day went on it was peeling off in a lot of areas. A friend of mine suggested something that i have never done before. He said that he has always scuffed the inside of the body with some fine steel wool, I used scotch bright after this incident to see if it will help. Do any of you do this as well? Thanks, Blake.

Jon Carlson

iTrader: (48)

Yes use scotch brite or fine steel wool to lightly scuff the inside of the body. Although don't scuff the windows as that you will see afterwords. Also make sure to clean the body with something like dishsoap and hot water. This will make sure all the oil is out of the inside of the body and let the paint stick better. Then with Faskolor make sure you give it enough time to dry... like a week before using it. Hope this will help.

Jon

HauntedMyst

If you look at Windex, you will notice it is the same thing as Fascleaner, only clear. Basically, its the thinner/cleaner for Faskolors so when you sprayed it on, it did what it should have done, which is take off the paint.

I recommend either the Scotchbright or 1000 grit auto sand paper for sanding the bodies before you wash them. It gives the paint extra bite into the body. No doubt some one will come on and post saying "I dont sand my bodies and I have no problem" however, it takes all of one minute, and I guarantee the paint will cling better.

Some other tips:

Faskolors, Alclad & Spazstix prismatics and chrome need a perfectly clean surface. You need to make sure you clean the body really well and then becareful when you are handing the body to make sure the oils on your hand aren't transfered to the body or it will keep the paint from gripping well.

I used to think Faskolors were as tough as Lacquers in terms of water resistence. I now recommend you spray them with a backing coat of either FasKoat (the best and toughest choice) or Pactra Silver or White (which ever is appropriate) for a better seal on your paint job.

Since Window Washing Fluid is the same thing as FasCleaner, save yourself a lot of money and just buy a gallon of Window cleaner for $2 instead of the little bottle of FasCleaner for $4. I use it every time I clean my brush and it keeps them clean and shiney.

Blakesrc

iTrader: (26)

Thanks for the reply guys, I have one more question. Just how thick should I lay this stuff on? I used several coats, using a hairdryer inbetween coats. For instance, I used fasblue in the front and sprayed as many coats as needed until I couldnt see any light shine thru, like a week spot, when holding it up to a light in in the garage. Is that to much paint? Should I just coat it a couple of times, then back it with silver?

Blake

Jon Carlson

iTrader: (48)

I usually just look at it from the outside of the body and if it looks all the same and you don't see and weak spots from the outside that should be good.

Jon

kevink2

Depends on how deep you want the color but, I like to see opacity. Especially with flourescents. If it's not built up enough your backing coats might show through and the color might dull. Keep your applications light, especially at first. As more paint applies, you can come on with heavier coats, as long as you are heat setting it in between. You must back it with Pactra or Faskoat to protect it, especially if you are running gas.

ApexGraphics

Any ammonia cleaner will attack acrylic paint. Your best bet on cleaning a body is to just use a water dampened cloth or compressed air.

I also clear coat the underside of my bodies with Crystal Clear Acrylic aerosol available at WalMart. Just a wet coat on the underside after the body cures will protect the paint from scratches and chemical attacks. Faskolor is advertised as fuel proof but isopropyl alcohol will attack it. Thats why I use the clear. Its virtually impregnable.

kevink2

Thinks it's nitro proof Apex? Sounds interesting.

ApexGraphics

Its fuel proof as far as I can tell. I've had no complaints. I tried some old fuel I had and it did not attack the clear, but I did not allow it to sit for a long time. One thing I do suggest, if you are leaving the windows clear, put on the clear before you pull the window masks as it fogs the clear areas slightly.

mrbee2828

What are all of my options to protect the Faskolor acrylics after I spray? I painted 3 bodies this weekend to find that the paint chips like a mother with the slightest hit of a fingernail. I see people have mentioned FasKoat and even Crystal Clear Acrylic aerosol available at WalMart?? I want to start selling custom painted bodies but not if they are going to scratch this easy.

HauntedMyst

The 2 mentioned and backing faskolors with a coat of Pactra racing paint are the only three options that I know of.

You shouldn't have the chipping problems with faskolors if you are prepping, spraying and backing the body correctly. Assuming you've prepped it correctly and backed it, that only leaves the painting. I've found two things I think will help. First, a lot of painters spray Faskolors on too heavily and too quickly. Faskolor covers quickly. Remember to spray 5 to 6 thin coats instead of 3 to 4 thick coats. Secondly, remember dried and cured are not the same thing. I used to spray up a body and race it the next day only to watch the paint rub off. The paint was dry but it wasn't set, or cured. Faskolor need a few days to cure completely, which makes them more durable.

Jon Carlson

iTrader: (48)

Haunted- Do you thin the faskolor's at all when you spray them?

mrbee2828

Tanks so much guys!

BigPinion

iTrader: (21)

A clean body and heat is the ticket to getting faskolor and Createx to adhere to the lexan. I have experienced all of these issues in the three years I have been painting. For fuel proofing I use Rustoleum enamel. The trick is to back the entire body in black faskolor or Createx and let cure for 2 days. Then spray light coats of enamel and let cure for a day. The enamel is fuel proof. It is important to use a heat gun between coats of acrylic to bond the paint. I have never had to scuff a body using this process and have not had flaking.