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Faskolor Consistency

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Old 10-17-2006, 01:05 PM
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Faskolor Consistency

I've been practicing airbrush technique for about a month now and recently finished my first airbrushed RC body - which IMO looks great! (Sorry, don't have any pictures yet) My compressor is a 1.5HP 6 gal w/ water trap and the airbrush is an Iwata Eclipse HP-CS. I have been using Createx and Faskolor water based paints, my question/problem applies to both brands of paint.

My problem has to do with spray consistency. Black comes out consistent every time, I can paint anything from hair lines on up to 2" lines. The rate at which the paint will spray is predictable with black and I can spray long lines of any width without tipdry.

However, this is not the case with colored paints. The spray becomes very unpredictable with color. Even right after cleaning the brush, painting a long thin line is virtually impossible because it seems like the paint flow is cut off after 2-3" of starting the line. Before I know it the nozzle is clogged and painting accurately is very hard.

I have tried bringing the paint to a milk-like consistency (even water like) and everything in between, plus playing around with my PSI from 10, 20, 30...45...etc. Sometimes things improve a little, but I still can't get any color to spray as nicely as black does.

Why is there such a difference? The stock paint consistency is the same between the black and color, but they don't spray the same? Water sprays very cleanly through the brush in a smooth and consistent manner. Using food coloring mixed in with the water I can get that predictable consistency I can only get with black.

Why does color hate me? I've been using plain water to dilute the paint, should I try using windex or rubbing alcohol? Or am I wrong in saying that this would make the paint dry faster? (making my problem worse?)

Any help would be great
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Old 10-18-2006, 07:51 AM
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Yes, definitely use something other than water!!! Windex works great. You'll have to thin some colors more than others, adjust psi, etc... Are you spraying with the nozzle cap on? If so, take it off and observe your needle tip on a couple practice runs. Also, you can pinch the needle tip to remove dried paint, it becomes habit after a while.
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Old 10-18-2006, 02:26 PM
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Thinning with windex helps, but if you use more than 1-2 drops per cup, the paint will be too thin and spider-leg more easily. The best thing is to try shooting with about 50-55 psi.

Honestly, the Faskolors are ok for large areas to be painted, or color blends that aren't too elaborate. They are all but useless for fine detail painting, like when you're doing realistic flames; the paint either won't atomize finely enough, or the tip clogs, or it spiderlegs when you reduce it. I've actually gone with regular Tamiya acrylics (not the polycarb version) for fine detail, and with great results. I don't know how well they will adhere in the long run, but on the few tests I've done, the Tamiya seems to adhere about as well as the Faskolor, with no signs of cracking or peeling.
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Old 10-18-2006, 03:22 PM
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Do some searching, sometimes these paints need different PSI to flow correctly. The blacks and blues need XX amount of air, and pearls and ?? need something different. Just experiement.
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Old 10-18-2006, 05:08 PM
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Ok, I'll try thinning with Windex, I doubt it'll completely salve the problem, but it might help.

I'll also try upping the PSI, maybe Im using a low PSI giving the paint time to dry on the tip, perhaps its not atomizing fast enough. I have tried painting with the nozzle cap off and it does help at times, perhaps I just need to wipe the tip more often. Captain, when you say "cup" do you mean about 1-2 drops per 1/2oz or so?

Well, time to experiment some more
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Old 10-18-2006, 05:49 PM
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Yes, about 1-2 drops per 1/2 oz cup for the regular paints. Do NOT dilute the fluo colors, they are already quite thin and cover poorly. Honestly, the higher PSI is really the way to go... And yes, you will need to clean the needle tip often. I keep a Q-tip dipped in denatured alcohol by my side at all times, and run it over the needle every few minutes.
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Old 10-20-2006, 01:14 PM
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Well, I tried 40,50 and 55PSI and the higher I went the more inconsistent things seemed to get. I then tried cranking it all the way down to 15PSI. At this pressure I was actually able to draw some fairly nice marker sized lines to my surprise. With some colors it helped to add a drop or two of clear windex. Using windex to wipe the tip occasionally also helped with the tip dry.

Also, should I be straining my paint as I poor it into the airbrush? If so, whats the best thing to use?
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Old 10-27-2006, 08:32 AM
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Originally Posted by captain america
Yes, about 1-2 drops per 1/2 oz cup for the regular paints. Do NOT dilute the fluo colors, they are already quite thin and cover poorly. Honestly, the higher PSI is really the way to go... And yes, you will need to clean the needle tip often. I keep a Q-tip dipped in denatured alcohol by my side at all times, and run it over the needle every few minutes.
Right on. I was going to ask how to properly thin Faskolor paints, when I found this response. Saved me loads of time.
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Old 11-17-2006, 06:54 AM
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I save old bottles and when I get a new bottle of the same color, I will split it between the two bottles and dilute each.

White is known to be the WORST.... it has the most pigment and is very thick. I have not measured the exact amount I dilute, but I'm betting with white I dilute 25%!! Red's, blue's, black and silver seem to be very thick as well. I dilute with Isopropal alcohol to a milk like consistency. Once you get a bottle diluted properly, it's just nice to pick it up and not have to worry about diluting and mixing in the spray cup.
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