It would appear that the Evo8 only accepts a quarter scale steering setup, according to the manual and the above pics. A double gang would require width modification of the servo tray, and I don't think the meat is there since they moved the throttle and front brake servo inward.
+1 on the sub-C RX pack. FG only show a AA RX pack in most their cars, but you will see at the track, that most people run asub-C 5 cel.
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- Kyosho 1 day -> <- Mugen the next -
Just an FYI on the Multiplex servo--here's the link to it's information page.
And the torque is OVER 350 oz's at 6 volts. It says it's specifically designed for 1/4 and 1/5 scale steering applications.
And here is the information on the Hitec servos I"m using for brakes and throttle. Again, OVER 330oz' of torque at the 6 volt level I"m going to be using. I don't think servo performance will be in question.
im using a one servo set up in my car now "rhino" but im switching over to a 2 servo "Hitec HS 7950's" set up using the 1013/27 Carbon radio tray, you can also use this tray for a one servo set up. Most people do use sub-c for there rx pack,i use a 4000 mah 7.4 lipo.
im using a one servo set up in my car now "rhino" but im switching over to a 2 servo "Hitec HS 7950's" set up using the 1013/27 Carbon radio tray, you can also use this tray for a one servo set up. Most people do use sub-c for there rx pack,i use a 4000 mah 7.4 lipo.
The wider radio tray may make it difficult to pull your hydros, because of alignment. I'm guessing that is why they moved them in.
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- Kyosho 1 day -> <- Mugen the next -
If you look at the pic of my EVO 4 in the earlier frames you will see the "ganged" two servo setup. It fits fine with the hydrolic brakes used on this car.
FWIW
Tim
If you look at the pic of my EVO 4 in the earlier frames you will see the "ganged" two servo setup. It fits fine with the hydrolic brakes used on this car.
FWIW
Tim
Tim, I was referring to the newer Evo8 carbon radio-plate not accepting ganged steering setup.
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- Kyosho 1 day -> <- Mugen the next -
im using a one servo set up in my car now "rhino" but im switching over to a 2 servo "Hitec HS 7950's" set up using the 1013/27 Carbon radio tray, you can also use this tray for a one servo set up. Most people do use sub-c for there rx pack,i use a 4000 mah 7.4 lipo.
Ronnix, can you tell us more about the shocks on your setup, do they have external adjustments?
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- Kyosho 1 day -> <- Mugen the next -
I'm sending the question to Mike Mayberry of Hitec. He'll answer the technical stuff for Hitec/Multiplex. I like to run the 5 cell 3300mah sub c nickel metals anyway. They'll take lot's of abuse--and I don't have to worry about a possible on-board fire from an impact. I need the weight on that side of the car anyway to offset the weight of the motor on the other---and I can hang it really low in outrigger style so it helps with handling.
FWIW
TIm
Hehe, the words of the olden days. :P LiPo batteries are really tough. More than you give it credit for. At my track where we race our electric cars, we've slammed these packs and even had them flung out of our cars sometimes and they still keep on ticking. And with today's chargers, you'll be lucky if one of these LiPo packs blow up or catch fire.
The good thing about LiPo is that you do not need to cycle them like NiMH batteries to get optimal performance. Better yet, you can use LiFePo batteries which are nearly indestructible and very reliable. Much safer than the current regular LiPo. However, they are only 6.6v.
NiMH packs are the thing of the past. I will be slapping a LiPo in my FG. I like the fact that I can just peak the battery and go out again, instead of cycling the NiMH pack and then going out again.
As far as weight, I am not sure I follow. The engine is in the center. Not on the side.
Where be those pictures! I wanna see how the build is coming along.
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Car(s): Robitronic AVID, Motonica P81, Xray T3
Motors/Engines: Tekin Redline 17.5, Novarossi 21P, Team Express 17.5 DUO (2x)
Radio: Spektrum DX3R, DX3S
Future Car(s): Robitronic AVID 2, FG Evo 08-530 with Killam Corvette Body
Track(s): http://www.rctrack.com, http://www.301raceway.com (Coming next year!!)
As far as the weight in the car Harry-- When you get your first car and assemble it--weigh it from side to side--and you'll see that the exhaust pipe on most of the cars is "outrigged" on the left side. The batteries on the right side off-set that weight. You can also use the batteries for "tuning"! Laid down low- they lower the CG and roll center--stand them up and move them towards the center of the car, and they help the car raise the roll center and center the weight. Move them forward-- more front bite--move them back--more rear bite.
FWIW
Okay--I'll start posting a few pics---it's going to take some time to put the "build together.
It took approximately 13 hours "From the box" to be ready for the track in assembly time. That does include a break for lunch and another for dinner. But, including cutting the soft bumper out and mounting the radio switch-- as well as painting the body I feel safe in saying the complete car was assembled and painted in less than 15 hours total time.
Okay--first a pic of all the bits in the box---and you can see the parts are seperated into major build sections for the car. All the bits are individually packaged for assembly in stages. And one picture of the "MASTER" builder--Frank Killam-- we'll be picking his brain throughout the build as no one has any more experience with the FG EVO cars then Frank. He's been racing and building RC cars since the 70's. At the most recent Roar Regionals--AND the Roar Nationals--Frank one both class's he raced in ---in BOTH races! No one is better at tuning/ building/ and driving than this guy. IF you look carefully, in the background of the picture are some RC cars on shelves throughout the garage. Visiting Frank's place is a little like stepping into an RC Car Museum!!
He's got 30 years of cars he's built and races on shelves around the garage--very cool
Then-- the fourth pic shows the tool box with the Genius tools Warner Berry has put together as a 1/5 scale building kit. Very handy--thanks Warner!!
On to the first pics of the chassis--- the side rails go on first--then you see me starting to attach the body mounts. We use hand tools AND blue LocTite for ALL bolts that go into aluminum!!! This is VERY important because of the vibration of these cars--locTite is a MUST!!!
Then with the plastic bits-- a drill driver is a real help installing all the self-taping screws into the nylon/plastic bits.
This is the first installment---I'll work on more later tonight.
T
Frank likes to start with the "rear" of the car first. It's got the most bits--with the differential carrier/ half shafts/ and the lower A arms that incorporate a "Tow-in" adjustment feature. We'll see how this works a little later in the build--the pics will show the location of the "adjuster" bolt.
The instruction manual is actually quite good with a liberal use of pictures. This is good because sometimes--as a result of it being printed with multiple languages--German and English-- the written instructions sometimes are not as detailed as you'd like.
All the major sub-assemblies are packaged in individually wrapped plastic bags!! They are indexed for you to easily follow the instructions as you assemble each area. Nicely done by FG!!!
The first picture shows a RED loctite being used--this will be only in bolts we NEVER expect to take out of the car. At this point--we are starting with the base chassis-- and putting the side rails/ battery mounts/ and the REAR mounts for the differential housing and rear A arms. The rear stands get the RED loctite-- the picture showing a small blue dot on the table-- is the place where a small puddle of BLUE loctite sits throughout the build. It makes it easy to find the main loctite we will use on all metal to metal contact screws that we want to stay in place until we want to remove them. The pic with my hands and wrench's is showing how we tighten the nuts for the lower A arm "Tow-in" adjustment bolt--- and the A arm picture shows the adjuster bolt in place. We also have to press in the nylon bearings that the "hinge pins" will go through to hold the A arms on the chassis.
The last pic in this area shows the layout of the differential-- an I 'am using carbide sanding cloth to "Deburr" the inside of the outer differential housing. This housing has to slide over a narrow "O" ring seal- and with the holes that have been drilled into it-- if you feel inside the housing--you'll feel the edges are quite sharp. Don't assemble the diff housing without smoothing out those rough edges --"deburring" the holes or you'll cut the O ring on assembly. This would be Frank's "inside tip # 1"!!!
FYI
We continue-- Sorry to NOT be able to take pics of the gears going INTO the differential carrier-- it was a "4" hand job to hold the carrier--and stack the gears together--then slide the assembly into the carrier!! You can see from the outside--this is a standard style --4 plate gear differential--which means it will have two main gears, and two "spider" gears all meshed with each other. The FG instructions are very good at explaining with pics how this assembly looks--but balancing it all takes a lot of precision and teamwork Once the gears are inside the carrier and the spider gear shaft is inserted, the carrier will stay together. You can see another of Frank's tips-- use NEO graphic gear grease for packing into the differential carrier. It maintains a good viscosity through all temperatures and creates a near "bulletproof" long-lasting diff!!
The next pic shows the differential carrier mounted in the uprights on the chassis, and we've began to bolt the A arms in place. Again, using BLUE loctite on ALL metal to metal threads!! The bottom of the chassis gives you a different perspective of the rear carrier.
The last picture shows the axle carriers that will be attached to the lower and upper A arms to hold the axles in place. You can see the axles in the background in the pic.
Sorry about the first pic being a little blurry-- what it is showing--is the "tow-in" adjuster bolt going through the A arm and then "double nutted" with one locking nut and one standard nut--and spaced with a washer. This was not a "factory" method until they learned about this set-up in Germany from the guys here in the US-- using this method. It allows you to easily change the amount of towin--the REAR wheels have when applying power--this is a BIG advantage to helping setup the car for low and high bite tracks!!! As you increase the Tow IN--the car will try to drive forward in a straight line under hard accelerating power--creating more "push under power" -- and will turn in harder OFF power-- and will also rotate into and through the corner faster in low-speed corners!! All part of the "tuning" for handling that the top drivers like Frank use.
The next pic shows using a 6mm reamer to be sure that the nylon bearings are aligned properly AND will allow for smooth pivoting action on the A arms.
The next two pics are reversed---the first shows the upper and lower arms on the right side assembled, the next pic shows the left side lower arm attached and the upper arm going in with the pin that holds it to the chassis ready to be put in. If you look below the upper A arm ball socket--you can easily see the "tow-in" adjuster bolt on the lower A arm--and in this view--you can also see how moving that bolt will change the "angle" of the hinge pin on the lower Axle carrier--that will allow for different tow-in angles.
We can also adjust for caster here also with the upper arm--it has small clips that pop in front or behind the upper A arm hinge pin area- to allow it to move forward or back--thus changing the "caster" in the rear end.
The last pic shows the pile of parts we used fresh out of the bag that is used to build the upper A arms.
