I loved the TRINITY EV10 back in the day! I still have three parts cars if you need parts. PM if interested.
I found that the car was very sensitive to side spring changes impacting steering. Stiffer side springs may help but you may find the car a little too sensitive. Tires will help, naturally, as will the amount of traction wash up front. Could your caster be adjusted too far? Is the car too light and thereby affecting the amount of steering? Good luck at the track.
Thomas - I too was going to suggest stiffer side springs. Get some pink rear tires and double pink fronts. Also, some .020" from springs. Pro-10 cars used to come with .022" springs and they would be too stiff at your lighter weight.
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Adrian Martinez
BMI Racing
bmiracing.com
ONe other thing you might try is to use the normal Peugot body instead of the High DF body you've got on it. That has a LOT more front DF than the normal one and I'd always found it to be a bit unbalanced which would contribute to being loose. . .
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RC10L2.5W - RCNTC3(bmi) - plus rent-a-rides! :D
Anyone runnign a Corally 10X? If so, what screws are you using to bolt on any rear wheel other than the Corally ones? All the M3 screws I can find have too wide a head to fit inside the holes of the Jaco or CRC WGT wheels.
Here is a short report from two weeks ago after my first run in a 235mm setup with the peugot body. I ran box stock Gen X 10 rear Jaco pinks and purple fronts. I took your advise Pro Ten Holland and loosened up the center spring a bit and did notice some difference. Track was a new layout, sprayed with DHT. I added paragon to the rear and fronts only on the inner part of the tire. BOY O BOY, this baby rocked and was able to keep up with the nitros on the straightaway. Though I am still learning to drive they would pass me up eventually. Though after the first hour I got the hang of the new layout and was keeping up with some of the guys at the track.
Ok with that said any other tips from the pro 10 class guys? Like front springs, what is everyone using and can someone tell me what the colors represent from soft to hard springs. I was running red front springs but tried green. Also anything thing I may consider upgrading on my kit, can't think of anything to do to it or just keep as is?
Also should I consider a softer tire for the rear? Also need help with body post for the peugot, I had problems setting up the body correctly and noticed some guys at the track with some non standard body post that had a slant to them to support the body. Anyone know what I am talking about and what company makes these?
toe -2
camber -2
caster 5
stock oil that came with kit
jaco pink rear purple fronts
green front springs
Center shock stock that came with crc kit
I assume you still have some oversteer you want to get rid of?
The best thing I can advie you at this point is to practice a lot and experiment a little with what you have already.
Maybe get some assorted shock oils for the center shock e.g. in the range of 25 wt to 50 wt to test what feels best for your driving style.
Further just try to keep your car contant. Swap left and right tires every other run, and regularly check ride height and tweak.
And off course: have fun!
Could you post a picture of what you mean with the body posts?
Above all - smooooth. You're not driving a sedan anymore so the type of throttle control we used with sedans (ON/OFF ) will NOT work with a pan car - same with the steering control. You have a TON more steering now, especially around the center so I typically recommend a bit of expo to take away a bit of steering right at the center. . .you know?
You're playing with gas cars, so play with your own line. You will literally be able to swoop them - they can't turn like you (AWD plus soooo heavy) so watch their lines but don't take them! Run a while by yourself (let them by, run in an empty area) and get someone to watch you. Run your line in a way that you can carry speed - as opposed to the nitros using the turn to shed speed to make the turn. You should be able to carry a TON more speed through the turns. . .
Haven't ever been to Crystal, but while Rev was still running on-road () we were routinely eating the 1/10 nitros for breakfast and lunch and nibbling on the 1/8 for dinner (never quite caught them, but our lap record was very close. . .)
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RC10L2.5W - RCNTC3(bmi) - plus rent-a-rides! :D
I've done a search and can't find anything useful at this point, so I'll ask:
What would be a good starting point for gearing if I'm running a 21.5 lipo setup for my CRC Gen-X 10?
Looking at the Novak site and comparing 1/12 to 1/10 and 17.5 to 21.5. I'd guess I should be very very confused. For VTA we have the 4.2 ceiling and there is really nothing else to compare it with. The motor should be able to handle mid 3s to mid 4s, but somehow come up with numbers in the low 2s trying to get a 83 mm rollout.
I'm so lost.
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MRT Personal Transponders http://www.rclaps.com/
USVTA - WGT - F1 - 17.5 Sedan/RCGT
I've done a search and can't find anything useful at this point, so I'll ask:
What would be a good starting point for gearing if I'm running a 21.5 lipo setup for my CRC Gen-X 10?
Looking at the Novak site and comparing 1/12 to 1/10 and 17.5 to 21.5. I'd guess I should be very very confused. For VTA we have the 4.2 ceiling and there is really nothing else to compare it with. The motor should be able to handle mid 3s to mid 4s, but somehow come up with numbers in the low 2s trying to get a 83 mm rollout.
I'm so lost.
You might want to ask that one in the CRC 1/10 Pan Car discussion...Im sure youll find other CRC GenX10 runners there and one of them could help you
Hi guys, I am going to run my brnad new BMI 'narrow' Pro10 car at our next winter series meeting and I would like to ask some advice on gearing. I run either 9 or 10 turn motors on a carpet track that takes up the complete hall (basket ball court size) that we normally run our 12th scale cars on. So, what MMPR should I start with on a circuit that size please? I may also use my 19 turn motor so again, any advice on gearing for that motor also? I will be running 4 cell packs and looking very much forward to running the car at the meeting! Cheers guys, Chris.
Your starting gearing should be the same as for a 12th scale with the same motor.
I run my 12th scale with a komodo dragon around 52mm/rev.
From what I've heard you should use even more rollout for a 9.5 and/or 10.5.
) will NOT work with a pan car - same with the steering control. You have a TON more steering now, especially around the center so I typically recommend a bit of expo to take away a bit of steering right at the center. . .you know?
) we were routinely eating the 1/10 nitros for breakfast and lunch and nibbling on the 1/8 for dinner (never quite caught them, but our lap record was very close. . .)
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