Corally – if you can’t get an answer anywhere else, try E-mailing CorallyUSA at custserv@corallyusa.com . Just don’t tell them you’re in Italy. They’re extremely helpful. I’ve been corresponding with them the past few days about something else and they always answer within a few hours if you reach them during their business hours. From what I’ve heard, Corally’s US office is much more helpful than their European one.
Corally - I'm not the biggest fan of Hitech's stuff but for a Pan Car, the 525 should work very well.
I'm not familiar enough with Italian Pro10 rules to really recommend a motor but for United States Rules, I use a Trinity P2k or P2k2 for US-style stock and a Reedy Ti 10x2 for modified although I don't run mod. much.
As you said you have been corresponding with Corally USA, you planning a switch from Asso to C10x?
The HPI pro10 car production has been stopped even though they are trying to make a come back for their F1. Has anyone had any experience with the HPI pro10?
Sometimes I only run my pro10 once every few weeks. At home I keep the car or at least the tires in a closed carrier. The tires become less slick if they stand in the open air for only a couple of days. Next time even with tire additives, it might take one battery pack run to recondition them.
In short, to maintain tire performance, I never leave them lying around in the open air. Sometimes the tires have not been used for quite a while, I machine-tru a thin film of foam off the tires and they feel terrific on the track. But ultimately if your local track is clean and grippy, probably you can save all these troubles.
I have read in previous posts that MarkA used a pole(?graphite) to prevent the car from flipping over. I have never thought of using that on a pro10. Its use in 1/12 is well established. It's use in 1/10 tc is a joke because the car is a bit too heavy. Either you snap the pole or you snap the deck that's holding the pole. I think pro10 is right in the middle because it's not as heavy as a 1/10 tc.
For example's sake, let's say you start a run w/ the ride height at 4mm front and rear. You may end the run with it a 3.8mm front and 3.9mm depending on tire wear. The wearing of the front tires faster than the rear "rakes" the weight forward very slightly.
On the 10L2 or any other Pro10 for that matter, you can use the AE fiberglass rollover antenna w/o any problems. It’s Assoc. part # 4510. It’s the same as the one for the 12th scale.
The Corally comment was, ummm, probably not that wisely posted. We’ll see in a little while what the story is there though.
MarkA I forgot to thank you for posting a pic of SoCal. What are those permanent white lines for?
MarkA I think Corally is sound asleep in Italy.
Now I see what you mean by rake. Every thing has a CG. But we can break it up into a front end CG and a rear CG, when the car is tilted forwards obviously the front CG becomes lower and the rear CG becomes higher. Then the front end will relatively stay put compared to the rear.
You are right. The weight distribution also is also shifted to the front end more. The front tires will then assume a bigger influence and traction than the rear.
The other thing that is going to counter this effect is that the rear wing becomes higher and it will tend to lift up the front end. Well I hope we are talking about the same thing.
MarkA what sort of batteries are you using on your pro10?
I don't understand the 'Corally comment' in your post.
I run my pro10 on a track where I only use tracrion additives in the first battery-pack run. Thereafter I don't need to reapply any more. What is it like at SoCal?
The white lines on the track at SoCal were for when they used to race on the oval. They’d be used as a reference point for the drivers because when you’re racing oval, everything else becomes a blur. Oval racing is mostly dead out here now though.
We use Trinity Zip Grip 2 or the old-school Paragon stuff for traction at SoCal and we re-apply every run.
I prefer the Sanyo NiCad 2400’s for stock but at the NORRCA Nationals in Las Vegas where we had to run 5-minute modified, I used Trinity Panasonic SMH 3000’s.
Corally - My remark and punctuation in English expressed surprise at the high quality of what you consider to be a normal Italian track. I hope that clears it up for you.
You may find that strange, but around Europe it's in fact the TYPICAL track.
A few guys saw a video of the track where I run and sent me emails to know where it was.
We don't have the same space around comercial areas as you do in the US.
If an hobby shop wants to do a track on their parking space they probably have to run Mini Z's
So, the clubs found areas where they could do tracks like these. Every Southern European country from Portugal to Italy, Holland, Germany, France etc have these RC race tracks.
Problems?
You pay more for being member of a club
New pavements for these tracks are VERY expensive
They are not as many as you have in the US (you have parking lots every where)
Poor me, I only have two of these in a 10 mile radius, sniff sniff
That was indeed a great track( Italy). It looks brand new too.
I just stopped by my local track yesterday and had five battery-pack runs of pro10. Wow! I FEEL GREAT. I'm not sure if I need another dose of such great fix today again.
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