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Old 04-27-2007, 06:12 PM   #346
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bsmooth
Thanks Captain,

that I can understand.

-Steve
any time
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Old 04-28-2007, 09:56 AM   #347
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bsmooth
I hope someone could help me.
I have an RB C5 Rody (with the silver case) that I'm trying to replace the head button on it.

The manual shows part #01082. The picture of this shows two dots (exhaust indicators) side by side. The head I have shows the two dots on top of each other. The button I have also has a bevel in the combustion chamber (see pic).

I've looked up all of the C5 manuals and the C6 manuals on line, and cannot find a picture of the same head button I have.

Could someone please enlighten me? I've spent hours trying to find the correct one.

Thank you,
Steve

Steve, captian is right...the non beveled button will work on your silver case the button you have is unique to the silver case Rody signatured. good luck finding it specially now that Sigma trading is gone. it gave that engine a broader range of power from top to bottom. I have both black and silver..My silver case Rody will smoke the black case anytime. try the new button and add 1mm shim from what you have as it is. and see what happens. good luck
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Old 04-29-2007, 07:37 AM   #348
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Hey guys, does anyone here have an RB Matrix, or know anything about it? I haven't heard much about it at all, and no one really runs RB where I race. Do you think it's a good engine? What about performance, how does it stack up against other high-end racing engines?
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Old 04-29-2007, 10:06 PM   #349
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RCRjuanabbe

Steve, captian is right...the non beveled button will work on your silver case the button you have is unique to the silver case Rody signatured. good luck finding it specially now that Sigma trading is gone. it gave that engine a broader range of power from top to bottom. I have both black and silver..My silver case Rody will smoke the black case anytime. try the new button and add 1mm shim from what you have as it is. and see what happens. good luck
I will try that.

Thank you for the help!!

-Steve
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Old 04-30-2007, 10:45 AM   #350
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Can anyone give me some instructions or point me in right direction on how to remove the piston and sleeve. I need to get my p/s pinched and I know there is a certain way the rb needs to be taken apart as to not break the piston skirt.

Thanks,
Chad
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Old 04-30-2007, 11:22 AM   #351
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scrad
Can anyone give me some instructions or point me in right direction on how to remove the piston and sleeve. I need to get my p/s pinched and I know there is a certain way the rb needs to be taken apart as to not break the piston skirt.

Thanks,
Chad

Raise the piston to the top of the cylinder before you remove the backing plate. Then after removing the backing plate, lower the piston back down. There are a few different methods for removing the sleeve. You can try rotating the piston and this may raise the sleeve enough to remove it. If it doesn't I lower the piston down and then put a zip tie in through the exhaust. Then I raise the piston up and that will normally raise the sleeve out of the case enough for you to remove it. Remove the sleeve, then take the conrod off the crankpin.
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Old 04-30-2007, 11:22 AM   #352
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scrad
Can anyone give me some instructions or point me in right direction on how to remove the piston and sleeve. I need to get my p/s pinched and I know there is a certain way the rb needs to be taken apart as to not break the piston skirt.

Thanks,
Chad

Double post..
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Old 05-02-2007, 06:37 PM   #353
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Can anyone tell me how many head shims to use in the rb martix motor
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Old 05-02-2007, 07:06 PM   #354
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I believe the rule of thumb is: 25%, run as is. 30%, add a .10 shim.
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Old 05-02-2007, 08:39 PM   #355
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carl jr
Can anyone tell me how many head shims to use in the rb martix motor
If you are using 30% you should have a total of .4mm shims under the head. The engine comes with .3mm stock.
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Old 05-03-2007, 11:09 AM   #356
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bsmooth
I will try that.

Thank you for the help!!

-Steve
Glad to help....
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Old 05-04-2007, 08:47 AM   #357
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Still on the head shims, how do i change them according to the altitude. If i race at sea level what should be a good start point in head shims and also if i go race in a place which is 1000Meters (3280.83 feet)? Another question how should i change the head shims according to the Temperature/Humidity ?

Thanks in advance.

I almost forgot, i run 30%. (RB MATRIX ENGINE)

Last edited by kyoshosan; 05-04-2007 at 08:50 AM. Reason: add fuel information
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Old 05-05-2007, 11:14 AM   #358
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Steven, thanks for the info. The zip tie trick worked like a charm. Is there any trick to re-installing the p/s? I'm sending this one off to be pinched.

Anyone know where to get a p/s and conrod for a ws7? I want to freshen up my spare. Actually I have 3 conrods that fit good on one of my cranks. I have 2 that say 2 on the top and 03 on the bottom and the other one says 9 on the top and nothing on the bottom. What one is better?

Last edited by Scrad; 05-05-2007 at 12:32 PM.
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Old 05-07-2007, 03:02 PM   #359
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Has anyone tried the JP 2031-H pipe on their Rody C6 in the past? I ran one at the Midwest Series race on mine and it seemed to work very well. I didn't have a 2018 to compare it to though.

I've also played around with the 2013 (non-conical header) and didn't care for it too much.

The 2031 (with short header) seemed to have very good bottom end and great fuel mileage. I do think I gave up a little on top end so I was just curious if anyone had experience with that combo. Thanks
Greg
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Old 05-10-2007, 05:21 AM   #360
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Hello from France,
here's a little review of my new engine

RB V12 Rody RC EFRA

http://www.automodelisme.com/modules.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&t=25560

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