Flushing a Motor
04-22-2005, 06:49 AM
#16
Tnk fr de erdvice Kyle! Usu srmt.
04-22-2005, 06:52 AM
#17
Tech Master
Thread Starter
Originally posted by Kyle Hazell
Phrosmong, For someone new to this you sure know a lot.....
Traj,
Flushing the engines is something we do after every race meeting. Our race engines (RB) get stripped after every major race meeting and are inspected, cleaned and generally the rod, pin and clips are replaced. The engines are then after runned and put away.
Our normal club engines (RB) just get flushed and after runned. Unless we have problem with them, we generally just log the run time and pull them down at a specific time and do routine maintance.
If the engines are out of the cars, they are always capped off at the ports and bagged up. Im quite sure the Ferrari F1 team dont leave there engines in the workshop unsealed.....
Your doing the right thing, and have asked good questions, you can never be to careful.....
Regards
Kyle
Phrosmong, For someone new to this you sure know a lot.....
Traj,
Flushing the engines is something we do after every race meeting. Our race engines (RB) get stripped after every major race meeting and are inspected, cleaned and generally the rod, pin and clips are replaced. The engines are then after runned and put away.
Our normal club engines (RB) just get flushed and after runned. Unless we have problem with them, we generally just log the run time and pull them down at a specific time and do routine maintance.
If the engines are out of the cars, they are always capped off at the ports and bagged up. Im quite sure the Ferrari F1 team dont leave there engines in the workshop unsealed.....
Your doing the right thing, and have asked good questions, you can never be to careful.....
Regards
Kyle
Thanks for your imput! muchly appreciated
From now on i will do the same
Ive seen you drive at Moorebank and your very entertaining to watch
04-22-2005, 06:52 AM
#18
Originally posted by Phroziac
Tnk fr de erdvice Kyle! Usu srmt.
Tnk fr de erdvice Kyle! Usu srmt.
You have a nice day....
04-22-2005, 06:56 AM
#19
Originally posted by TRAJ
Hi Kyle
Thanks for your imput! muchly appreciated
From now on i will do the same
Ive seen you drive at Moorebank and your very entertaining to watch
Hi Kyle
Thanks for your imput! muchly appreciated
From now on i will do the same
Ive seen you drive at Moorebank and your very entertaining to watch
04-22-2005, 07:05 AM
#20
Tech Master
Thread Starter
Thanks I also do that aswell
04-22-2005, 07:22 AM
#21
Tech Fanatic
Originally posted by Kyle Hazell
No worries, one thing we have also found is its really important to run filter after the tank. Make sure you do this, the sintered filter in the tank does not pick up all the things we all think it picks up...
No worries, one thing we have also found is its really important to run filter after the tank. Make sure you do this, the sintered filter in the tank does not pick up all the things we all think it picks up...
04-22-2005, 07:36 AM
#22
Originally posted by joemugen
are you suggesting to put a filter between the fuel tank and the carb? thanks in advance.
are you suggesting to put a filter between the fuel tank and the carb? thanks in advance.
04-22-2005, 08:37 PM
#23
That is rediculous. If you maintain your air filter well and dont do something else stupid, why would there be dirt in it? How often do you do this to your real cars? :P
By the way, my dad had 4 gallons or so in his trx 2.5, which he didnt clean the air filter until it was BLACK.
04-26-2005, 05:22 AM
#24
motor flush
If you flush your motor for no other reason than to eliminate the extremely corrosive nitromethane and the water absorption of alcohol you are way ahead of the game. Routine maintenance is the difference between competitive and non competittive racers.
04-26-2005, 05:25 AM
#25
Tech Master
Thread Starter
Thanks for the imput guy muchly appreciated will flush my engine after every meet
will flush my engine after every meet
05-02-2005, 02:51 PM
#26
Originally posted by Speedypeterb
hey phroziac you contradict yourself within two sentences. please before you post read you post through first. someone asked what flushing a motor was and we all try to help each other out. its true if your not serious about racing you don't have to be a maintenance freak, but if your real competative and you want to win you want to make sure all the mechanics of the car and motor perform like they should so the driver only has to worry about driving. so before you race check the whole car over
hey phroziac you contradict yourself within two sentences. please before you post read you post through first. someone asked what flushing a motor was and we all try to help each other out. its true if your not serious about racing you don't have to be a maintenance freak, but if your real competative and you want to win you want to make sure all the mechanics of the car and motor perform like they should so the driver only has to worry about driving. so before you race check the whole car over
How does dirt get into an engine with a maintained filter?
I don't see whats wrong with what i said? Why dont you complain about Kyle Hazell being an ass? Is that what you want me to do?
You can even get dirt in an engine doing what was described here. duh
Last edited by Phroziac; 05-02-2005 at 02:58 PM.
05-30-2005, 06:06 PM
#27
Tech Fanatic
when you take apart an engine, and you have a rust type color on the back side of the crank, and dark gold burn on top of the piston, do you guys clean this off??? how do you prevent this?
05-30-2005, 06:22 PM
#28
You can use a scotchbrite pad to clean the piston or really fine sand paper +600 grit jut being sure to not clean the side of the piston only the upper surface.
The same can be done with the crank only leaving the crankpin untouched. Some people polish their cranks with a cloth wheel bit on a dremel and mag. wheel polish that you can get at an auto parts store.
The best way to prevent the rust is to run the engine out of fuel,
- disconnect the fuel and pressure line
-use 3 In 1 oil(find this at AutoZone) and apply it like after run oil making sure to coat all the parts of the crank, bearings and piston. It's viscosity is similar to water so it shouldn't be too hard.
-plug up all the connections to make the engine as air tight as possible
It's really time consuming and labor intensive but this is the best way.
The same can be done with the crank only leaving the crankpin untouched. Some people polish their cranks with a cloth wheel bit on a dremel and mag. wheel polish that you can get at an auto parts store.
The best way to prevent the rust is to run the engine out of fuel,
- disconnect the fuel and pressure line
-use 3 In 1 oil(find this at AutoZone) and apply it like after run oil making sure to coat all the parts of the crank, bearings and piston. It's viscosity is similar to water so it shouldn't be too hard.
-plug up all the connections to make the engine as air tight as possible
It's really time consuming and labor intensive but this is the best way.
05-30-2005, 06:47 PM
#29
Tech Fanatic
thanks for your help... i just started making my own fuel so i hope this will help as well since i know what exactly is going into it. i ran it for the first time this weekend, and i was pretty happy with it.
06-09-2005, 12:21 PM
#30
I dont think many here have enough knowledge of motors to give you any good advice. Especially MR.Phro. Sorry but your figure it out on your own way just doesnt sound good and you shouldnt be sharing this with othersm unless you know or had someone else experienced teach you.
Also leaving the motor @ TDC? Whats that going to do. Just dont turn the motor over unless its running and when the motor is resting you always leave it at BDC (bottom dead center). Why because when the motor cools and the piston is at TOP DEAD CENTER TDC. Then it will expand and get stuck and will increase wear and expand the chamber causing larger gaps and more fuel to get by.
Now granted you could be saying do this with the engine cold. But either way if its not running it shouldnt be moved beyond the BDC.
Otherwise in a bag , covered by a towel or anything else that you know will be secure and keep foreign material out will work fine.
--
Now to the last part. Forget what everyone else said. Just use this article:
http://www.cefx.net/tips/nitro/maintenance/
End of story. Happy tuning.
Also leaving the motor @ TDC? Whats that going to do. Just dont turn the motor over unless its running and when the motor is resting you always leave it at BDC (bottom dead center). Why because when the motor cools and the piston is at TOP DEAD CENTER TDC. Then it will expand and get stuck and will increase wear and expand the chamber causing larger gaps and more fuel to get by.
Now granted you could be saying do this with the engine cold. But either way if its not running it shouldnt be moved beyond the BDC.
Otherwise in a bag , covered by a towel or anything else that you know will be secure and keep foreign material out will work fine.
--
Now to the last part. Forget what everyone else said. Just use this article:
http://www.cefx.net/tips/nitro/maintenance/
End of story. Happy tuning.