OS 12 TzR
06-30-2005, 07:59 AM
#406
Originally Posted by rc_alan
I was looking for the 5 port...
you make me want to break in mine right away. coming this saturday ?
06-30-2005, 09:21 AM
#407
Anyone try the tz-5port with rd logics turbo 2 6mm stinger tuned pipe??? Any feed back? 
06-30-2005, 03:00 PM
#408
Originally Posted by rc_alan
Aug 2005 RC Driver Magazine Issue #20 pages 114-115... Dyon'd OS.TZ12 5- port... You can also go to www.rcdriver.com and see if they have the link there.. Possible search for it... I was only able to find the TZ-18 Dyo spec though on there website...
RC_Alan
RC_Alan
06-30-2005, 06:27 PM
#409
Read the article over the evening. Max hp at about 38,000 rpm, 1.87hp. But let's not forget, 30% nitro, P7 glow plug was used. Anyway, the torque curve was pretty flat which is a good thing and the engine was revved all the way to 45,000 rpm and according to the writer, it still have some reserves!! And in some Japanese Magazine, RC world, you can see a serious bad @$$ looking M Speed OS TZ. The crankshaft is ported extensively (from the pic) 
(from the pic)
06-30-2005, 06:37 PM
#410
hi guys, i'm current using an STS d3r but i am considering a new engine.
i had my eye on the .12 TZ as it is only $190 at rc-mushroom and i have heard good things about it but i have a couple of questions.
1)how much of an improvement would it be over my STS? a little bit quicker or a whole lot quicker?
2) what sort of fuel (% wise, also, what brand do you recomend) is recomended and what sort of plug...i don't want to have to replace the piston and liner every season so nothing crazy like 30% please.
3) will it drop straight into my ntc3 (rear exhaust mounts)? no good getting an engine that won't fit
i had my eye on the .12 TZ as it is only $190 at rc-mushroom and i have heard good things about it but i have a couple of questions.
1)how much of an improvement would it be over my STS? a little bit quicker or a whole lot quicker?
2) what sort of fuel (% wise, also, what brand do you recomend) is recomended and what sort of plug...i don't want to have to replace the piston and liner every season so nothing crazy like 30% please.
3) will it drop straight into my ntc3 (rear exhaust mounts)? no good getting an engine that won't fit
06-30-2005, 06:38 PM
#411
Originally Posted by BundyMan
Anyone tried it with the new OS pipe? I supposed that will be an awesome combo?
06-30-2005, 06:41 PM
#412
Originally Posted by raving-monkey
hi guys, i'm current using an STS d3r but i am considering a new engine.
i had my eye on the .12 TZ as it is only $190 at rc-mushroom and i have heard good things about it but i have a couple of questions.
1)how much of an improvement would it be over my STS? a little bit quicker or a whole lot quicker?
2) what sort of fuel (% wise, also, what brand do you recomend) is recomended and what sort of plug...i don't want to have to replace the piston and liner every season so nothing crazy like 30% please.
3) will it drop straight into my ntc3 (rear exhaust mounts)? no good getting an engine that won't fit
i had my eye on the .12 TZ as it is only $190 at rc-mushroom and i have heard good things about it but i have a couple of questions.
1)how much of an improvement would it be over my STS? a little bit quicker or a whole lot quicker?
2) what sort of fuel (% wise, also, what brand do you recomend) is recomended and what sort of plug...i don't want to have to replace the piston and liner every season so nothing crazy like 30% please.
3) will it drop straight into my ntc3 (rear exhaust mounts)? no good getting an engine that won't fit
yes it can compare with RR12L5. you know it is way faster than STS craps. (sorry)
I stick with P6.
yes, it will fit on ntc3.
06-30-2005, 06:44 PM
#413
zac os tr or os tz .12 3 port
hey guys
just wanted to know if anyone can compare this os tz to the zac os tr ?
both engines being the 3 port versions
i have the os tz and a TR R spec for backup but i wanted to get something with more power than the tr. im also thinking of just getting another tz.
thanks
John
just wanted to know if anyone can compare this os tz to the zac os tr ?
both engines being the 3 port versions
i have the os tz and a TR R spec for backup but i wanted to get something with more power than the tr. im also thinking of just getting another tz.
thanks
John
06-30-2005, 06:54 PM
#414
Originally Posted by silverM3
yes it can compare with RR12L5. you know it is way faster than STS craps. (sorry)
I stick with P6.
yes, it will fit on ntc3.
I stick with P6.
yes, it will fit on ntc3.
i take it 'p6' is the plug..if so who makes it?
what sort of fuel is recomended?
06-30-2005, 07:02 PM
#415
Originally Posted by raving-monkey
lmao, i know STS's are crap...it wasn't even brand new, it was just something to get my ntc3 running.
i take it 'p6' is the plug..if so who makes it?
what sort of fuel is recomended?
i take it 'p6' is the plug..if so who makes it?
what sort of fuel is recomended?
06-30-2005, 07:10 PM
#416
The 12TZ will blow the doors off your current motor.
Use the OS P7 turbo plug or the OS P8 if the air temp is above 90F.
You can run Byron's, O'Donnell, Rocket Science or any good racing fuel. I suggest using 30%. It would be a good idea to order the head shim gasket set for the TZ and add the .1mm (copper color) shim to lower the compression just a hair. It will run fine on 30% with the current head shims but adding the .1mm will improve performance.
For those just getting the TZ- you should add the shim as above.
To start the motor, lean the hi and lo screws 1/4 turn each. The motor should start fine there. Also turn the idle screw in about 1 full turn. This will help keep it running. Use a heat gun on the block before attempting to start the motor. This will not only make it easier to start but decrease the scoring of the cylinder wall until the motor is broken in. Set the adj screwsto where the motor runs and run it on the track or driveway, etc like you would normally run the car at the race. Run it for about 3 minutes at a time letting the motor cool fully between runs. About 5 heat cycles should be fine then start tuning it for race conditions. That's it. FORGET all that BS about breaking in motors from the past.
Use the OS P7 turbo plug or the OS P8 if the air temp is above 90F.
You can run Byron's, O'Donnell, Rocket Science or any good racing fuel. I suggest using 30%. It would be a good idea to order the head shim gasket set for the TZ and add the .1mm (copper color) shim to lower the compression just a hair. It will run fine on 30% with the current head shims but adding the .1mm will improve performance.
For those just getting the TZ- you should add the shim as above.
To start the motor, lean the hi and lo screws 1/4 turn each. The motor should start fine there. Also turn the idle screw in about 1 full turn. This will help keep it running. Use a heat gun on the block before attempting to start the motor. This will not only make it easier to start but decrease the scoring of the cylinder wall until the motor is broken in. Set the adj screwsto where the motor runs and run it on the track or driveway, etc like you would normally run the car at the race. Run it for about 3 minutes at a time letting the motor cool fully between runs. About 5 heat cycles should be fine then start tuning it for race conditions. That's it. FORGET all that BS about breaking in motors from the past.
06-30-2005, 07:12 PM
#417
Originally Posted by silverM3
yes it can compare with RR12L5. you know it is way faster than STS craps. (sorry)
I stick with P6.
yes, it will fit on ntc3.
I stick with P6.
yes, it will fit on ntc3.
06-30-2005, 07:14 PM
#418
thanks big dog and silver m3.
isn't 30% a bit extreme? how long would my engine last under racing conditions running 30%?
also, you say 90F, i aint to good with maths but what is that in C?
the track i will be running at is www.halifaxtrack.co.uk.
so under 'normal' british weather conditions, should i still use p7 and p8 plugs?
isn't 30% a bit extreme? how long would my engine last under racing conditions running 30%?
also, you say 90F, i aint to good with maths but what is that in C?
the track i will be running at is www.halifaxtrack.co.uk.
so under 'normal' british weather conditions, should i still use p7 and p8 plugs?
06-30-2005, 07:54 PM
#419
Silver M3, are you running the inline 1040 L52 pipe or the L70 (7mm)??
How does it compare to others?
Thanks
How does it compare to others?
Thanks
06-30-2005, 08:50 PM
#420
Originally Posted by BigDogRacing
The 12TZ will blow the doors off your current motor.
Use the OS P7 turbo plug or the OS P8 if the air temp is above 90F.
You can run Byron's, O'Donnell, Rocket Science or any good racing fuel. I suggest using 30%. It would be a good idea to order the head shim gasket set for the TZ and add the .1mm (copper color) shim to lower the compression just a hair. It will run fine on 30% with the current head shims but adding the .1mm will improve performance.
For those just getting the TZ- you should add the shim as above.
To start the motor, lean the hi and lo screws 1/4 turn each. The motor should start fine there. Also turn the idle screw in about 1 full turn. This will help keep it running. Use a heat gun on the block before attempting to start the motor. This will not only make it easier to start but decrease the scoring of the cylinder wall until the motor is broken in. Set the adj screwsto where the motor runs and run it on the track or driveway, etc like you would normally run the car at the race. Run it for about 3 minutes at a time letting the motor cool fully between runs. About 5 heat cycles should be fine then start tuning it for race conditions. That's it. FORGET all that BS about breaking in motors from the past.
Use the OS P7 turbo plug or the OS P8 if the air temp is above 90F.
You can run Byron's, O'Donnell, Rocket Science or any good racing fuel. I suggest using 30%. It would be a good idea to order the head shim gasket set for the TZ and add the .1mm (copper color) shim to lower the compression just a hair. It will run fine on 30% with the current head shims but adding the .1mm will improve performance.
For those just getting the TZ- you should add the shim as above.
To start the motor, lean the hi and lo screws 1/4 turn each. The motor should start fine there. Also turn the idle screw in about 1 full turn. This will help keep it running. Use a heat gun on the block before attempting to start the motor. This will not only make it easier to start but decrease the scoring of the cylinder wall until the motor is broken in. Set the adj screwsto where the motor runs and run it on the track or driveway, etc like you would normally run the car at the race. Run it for about 3 minutes at a time letting the motor cool fully between runs. About 5 heat cycles should be fine then start tuning it for race conditions. That's it. FORGET all that BS about breaking in motors from the past.
This is actually only my second nitro engine (ran electric for few years) so I'm still learning. But this tuning-thing is deffinitely a "learned" skill...kinda like "kung fu"...takes years to master and then you kick butt...ok, maybe not
..but this shows there is more to tuning than just needle settings.But "how" do you know when to try differnet techniques? Like a different plug vs more shims etc.? Anyway, thanks again for the good info.
I try to take a little knowledge from everywhere.