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Old 06-02-2012, 05:02 PM   #46
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What has changed with 2012 engine? I have a 2011 EDO .12 and I find the bottom end to be a bit too violent for my liking.
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Old 06-03-2012, 04:39 PM   #47
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Default Bottom end

Hi Scott
You know you can always shim the head up just a bit to take away bottom and increase mid and top or use 16% if you are using 20%.
2012 version the casing exhaust port has been enlarge, so to run the new 2669 you have to use the 7140 gasket. You will still have plenty bottom end torque, but with more mid and top.
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Old 06-04-2012, 07:29 PM   #48
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16% is not an option for me as my fuel sponsor does not make that. I will add a head shim and see if that makes the power delivery more to my liking.
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Old 09-14-2012, 02:40 PM   #49
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KEVCO Racing would like to WELCOME Rino "Alfonzo" Lino to KEVCO / PICCO Team. Rino will be a big asset to our Team showing his driving talent and set-up knowledge. You will see Rino at the U.S. National and most all of the Florida State Series. Rino runs for KOSMIC Fuel and X-RAY cars. Rino is also in the process designing a conversion kit for a IGT based of the WORLD famous X-RAY XB9.

Rino commented saying, What I have to say: "Thank you Kevco Racing for the opportunity of joining the team, after testing the engines, all I have to say is I am very excited for the races to come."
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Old 09-14-2012, 02:55 PM   #50
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Hello everyone, don't forget to visit our new KEVCO Racing site. (WWW.KEVCORACING.COM ).We have been doing some construction on our site and carrying the entire PICCO TORQUE product line on our site where you can order direct for all parts. We also have a Dealer area for you to purchase from your local dealer if they carry the PICCO line. We will be posting the resent News and reports on the site if you like to read what is going on at the races or in house at KEVCO Racing and Team members..

Hope to see you soon at the State Series or R.O.A.R. U.S. Nationals.


If your a PICCO dealer, please contact us so we can add you to our Dealer listing.

If any of you racers have any questions or concerns please feel free to contact us at any time here on rctech or email us direct which will be a faster response so we can help you with any questions or concerns.

Thank you for your support
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Old 09-16-2012, 08:01 PM   #51
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Default picco torque .12 edo mod

does anyone know what the factory carb setting ? thanks for the info in advance.
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Old 09-16-2012, 11:27 PM   #52
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Quote:
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does anyone know what the factory carb setting ? thanks for the info in advance.
3-1/2 OUT for BOTTOM
3/4 - 1 OUT for TOP
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Old 09-17-2012, 02:17 PM   #53
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3-1/2 OUT for BOTTOM
3/4 - 1 OUT for TOP
what about the idle setting
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Old 09-19-2012, 02:58 AM   #54
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Hey engine gurus

I have a Ofna JLR Red Dot Evo II and when i loosen off the retaining bolt for the carby the carby won't budge at all. I have tried twisting it and it won't move.

I also have a brand new LRP Z12R Spec4 and the carby is tight to get into the crankcase with out any of the mounting parts in place. Is their a secret to installing and removing the carby? Do you need to heat it up in the oven, but then the carby is composite...

Thanks in advance

Andrew
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Old 09-19-2012, 03:21 AM   #55
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Default Picco engine bearing tool

Hi everybody.

I need your help regarding changing bearings of the Picco engines.
I have the new RB tool, but it does not fit. Also the Hudy tool does not fit sufficiently, so I am looking for a tool that really fits.

I am looking forward to your answers and suggestions.
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Old 09-19-2012, 04:35 AM   #56
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Originally Posted by Bundy_Bear View Post
Hey engine gurus

I have a Ofna JLR Red Dot Evo II and when i loosen off the retaining bolt for the carby the carby won't budge at all. I have tried twisting it and it won't move.

I also have a brand new LRP Z12R Spec4 and the carby is tight to get into the crankcase with out any of the mounting parts in place. Is their a secret to installing and removing the carby? Do you need to heat it up in the oven, but then the carby is composite...

Thanks in advance

Andrew
Adrew i had the same problem with an evo 3 . when i mounted the carb i put oli in its body and iwas trying to put it in place with movements left and right.with this way the made a little smaller and the hole a little bigger.if this does not work for you sant the body with 1000# sandpaper.
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Old 09-19-2012, 05:06 AM   #57
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Originally Posted by GREGORY! View Post
Adrew i had the same problem with an evo 3 . when i mounted the carb i put oli in its body and iwas trying to put it in place with movements left and right.with this way the made a little smaller and the hole a little bigger.if this does not work for you sant the body with 1000# sandpaper.
Thank you... any thought on getting the old one out of the Ofna?

Thanks
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Old 09-19-2012, 07:31 AM   #58
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Originally Posted by Darkstar900 View Post
Hi everybody.

I need your help regarding changing bearings of the Picco engines.
I have the new RB tool, but it does not fit. Also the Hudy tool does not fit sufficiently, so I am looking for a tool that really fits.

I am looking forward to your answers and suggestions.
The
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Last edited by bluer322; 09-19-2012 at 08:12 AM.
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Old 09-19-2012, 08:14 AM   #59
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The way I do is
Heat the engine with a heat gun or in the oven and tap it on a small flat pice of 2x4 and freez the bearings to put them back.
Hi Bluer.

There are many opinions around with heating up the crankcase or not. I have made the best experience if I change the bearings with a cold crankcase. Reasons are various, but mainly stresses in the crankcase material.
Therefor I was asking for a tool that fits. With the heating method it would work, but I do not want to do it this way. If there will be no other alternative, then maybe, but as long as there is a solution with a tool, then I would like to choose this.
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Old 09-20-2012, 01:51 AM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Darkstar900 View Post
Hi Bluer.

There are many opinions around with heating up the crankcase or not. I have made the best experience if I change the bearings with a cold crankcase. Reasons are various, but mainly stresses in the crankcase material.
Therefor I was asking for a tool that fits. With the heating method it would work, but I do not want to do it this way. If there will be no other alternative, then maybe, but as long as there is a solution with a tool, then I would like to choose this.
I use a JP bearing removal tool for the front bearing and a RB removal tool for the rear.
Hope that helps.
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