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Old 10-03-2010, 05:21 PM   #1
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hey guys i just recently bought the losi 8ight-t 2.0 and i went to break it in yesterday. I attempted the heat cycling method but when it was sitting on the box it wasnt getting over 113 farienhiet. I then set it out and ran it on the ground. It still wasnt getting any hotter. I leaned out the high speed and it started getting hotter. Should i just keep leaning it out until i get it as hot enough as it should be for break in?
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Old 10-03-2010, 06:38 PM   #2
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Im willing to bet you have a bum temp gauge. It'should be at 113 degrees a few seconds after it pops.
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Old 10-03-2010, 07:09 PM   #3
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hey guys i just recently bought the losi 8ight-t 2.0 and i went to break it in yesterday. I attempted the heat cycling method but when it was sitting on the box it wasnt getting over 113 farienhiet. I then set it out and ran it on the ground. It still wasnt getting any hotter. I leaned out the high speed and it started getting hotter. Should i just keep leaning it out until i get it as hot enough as it should be for break in?
NO, NO...do not lean out the HSN to get temps! Keep it slightly rich. What you should do is get yourself a heat gun. Some people use a hair dryer but a heat gun will heat up the engine better and faster. Heat the engine up to 180F before you start it. Then it will start up easier and the temp will be up there. Then drive it around a bit for 3 min. If it gets cold in the engine, bring it in and heat it up some more. Then set the piston at BDC (bottom dead center) and let it cool off. Then heat it up to 180F again before starting it back up. Temps are what you want. The engine needs to be hot to break in because the sleeve will expand around the piston that way. However, you do not want the engine lean during break in. You want it slightly on the rich side because it is tight between the piston and sleeve and you need the lubrication of the parts until it loosens up.
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Old 10-03-2010, 07:14 PM   #4
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What you should do is get yourself a heat gun.
I agree with you but to me, this says that he has a temp guage already.

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I attempted the heat cycling method but when it was sitting on the box it wasnt getting over 113 farienhiet. I then set it out and ran it on the ground. It still wasnt getting any hotter.
Hense the reason I said this:

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Im willing to bet you have a bum temp gauge. It'should be at 113 degrees a few seconds after it pops.
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Old 10-03-2010, 07:19 PM   #5
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I agree with you but to me, this says that he has a temp guage already.



Hense the reason I said this:
He means a heat gun, not a temp gauge. That way he can use it to heat up the engine.
You could also try wraping the cooling head with foil or something to help keep the engine temp up.

My engines using Ron's break in method for the B5, never got above 110 without heating them up first. I would heat them up to as hot as a hairdryer would get(about 160) and it would be back to around 110 within 30 seconds. I've never been able to do the heat cycling method, just becasue I haven't bought an engine warmer yet, and I don't have a heat gun. If you don't have any way to get the engine warm enough, you might want to try out Ron's break in method. It's really easy, and has worked for me on the engines I have tried it with. It's on the first page of the werks B5 thread.
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Old 10-03-2010, 07:20 PM   #6
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I agree with you but to me, this says that he has a temp guage already.



Hense the reason I said this:
If he got the Lost 8ight 2.0 RTR he is probably using the guage on the Spektrum DX3S radio it comes with. I've found that this telemetry system is not so acurate. It shows temperatures 10deg higher than they actually are since the wire rests directly on the cooling head and not near the case. Anyway, what I said still is true. You do not want to lean the engine out to create heat for break in. You want lube and that comes from fuel. You need slightly rich settings while using a heat gun to keep heat in the engine before and if necessary during the break in.

One thing I did not mention is using some aluminum foil. Wrap the cooling head in aluminum foil to insulate the cooling head and keep temps in the engine and not to let it air cool so much.
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Old 10-03-2010, 07:27 PM   #7
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He means a heat gun, not a temp gauge. That way he can use it to heat up the engine
I get this part too. What Im saying is if the engine was only 113 degrees after running it (im assuming for a good 1/2 of a tank) there is something wrong with the temp guage which ever one hes using or going off of.


I bet his temps were close to 200 degrees right where he wants to keep them but does not truly know it because of a faulty gauge is all I was trying to get across.
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Old 10-03-2010, 07:34 PM   #8
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I get this part too. What Im saying is if the engine was only 113 degrees after running it (im assuming for a good 1/2 of a tank) there is something wrong with the temp guage which ever one hes using or going off of.


I bet his temps were close to 200 degrees right where he wants to keep them but does not truly know it because of a faulty gauge is all I was trying to get across.
Not true...I broke in a Losi 350 about a month ago and the first 2 tanks did NOT go over 120F unless I used a heat gun to get the temps up. The motor was just too tight to get moving enough. That combined with the slightly rich carb settings for break in just didn't give enough heat by simply driving the buggy around.
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Old 10-03-2010, 07:41 PM   #9
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Which one is it then? If your going by this your contradicting your self. He was at 113 degrees and you say the telm is about 10 degrees higher... Unless your saying his engine was only running at 93 degrees. I highly doubt it. Plus, he was leaning it out.

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I've found that this telemetry system is not so acurate. It shows temperatures 10deg higher than they actually are since the wire rests directly on the cooling head and not near the case.
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Not true...I broke in a Losi 350 about a month ago and the first 2 tanks did NOT go over 120F unless I used a heat gun to get the temps up. The motor was just too tight to get moving enough. That combined with the slightly rich carb settings for break in just didn't give enough heat by simply driving the buggy around.
Whatever though. Im done with this nonsense
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Old 10-03-2010, 09:26 PM   #10
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You gotta get these engines up to operating temp when you break them in and run it rich. Use a heat gun and some foil. Make sure your temp gun is accurate. I use an engine heater that work great. I heat the engine to 220 before I start it and then keep it from 230-260 while it's idling on the box. Then when I go to run tanks through on the street I still preheat the engine to 220 before I start is and then wrap the head with foil to keep temps in the same range. After 6 tanks it's 80% race tune and ready for the track. You gotta get it hot when you break it in. I preheT the engine until it looses all of it's metal pinch not just some.
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Old 10-04-2010, 05:52 PM   #11
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I get this part too. What Im saying is if the engine was only 113 degrees after running it (im assuming for a good 1/2 of a tank) there is something wrong with the temp guage which ever one hes using or going off of.


I bet his temps were close to 200 degrees right where he wants to keep them but does not truly know it because of a faulty gauge is all I was trying to get across.
i know it wasnt over atleast 120 because i could put my whole hand on it and it felt cooler that a rock on the ground
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Old 10-04-2010, 06:20 PM   #12
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i know it wasnt over atleast 120 because i could put my whole hand on it and it felt cooler that a rock on the ground
It probably wasn't much more than that. You will usually struggle to get the temps up idling the first few tanks on the box. Like FrankL said rap the head with foil or a 1/10 scale tire foam and always heat it up before you start.
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Old 10-04-2010, 07:20 PM   #13
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It probably wasn't much more than that. You will usually struggle to get the temps up idling the first few tanks on the box. Like FrankL said rap the head with foil or a 1/10 scale tire foam and always heat it up before you start.
ok il try that next time i get a chance
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Old 10-04-2010, 07:39 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by bevofrancis View Post
He means a heat gun, not a temp gauge. That way he can use it to heat up the engine.
You could also try wraping the cooling head with foil or something to help keep the engine temp up.

My engines using Ron's break in method for the B5, never got above 110 without heating them up first. I would heat them up to as hot as a hairdryer would get(about 160) and it would be back to around 110 within 30 seconds. I've never been able to do the heat cycling method, just becasue I haven't bought an engine warmer yet, and I don't have a heat gun. If you don't have any way to get the engine warm enough, you might want to try out Ron's break in method. It's really easy, and has worked for me on the engines I have tried it with. It's on the first page of the werks B5 thread.
A b5 is probably the only motor your gonna start out there new with out a blow drier or heat gun. They have no pinch new...... You can turn them over a couple times buy hand and the pinch is gone. Just about any other motor out there youll have to heat up to ay 160 just to get to turn over on the box.
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Old 10-04-2010, 07:50 PM   #15
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Which one is it then? If your going by this your contradicting your self. He was at 113 degrees and you say the telm is about 10 degrees higher... Unless your saying his engine was only running at 93 degrees. I highly doubt it. Plus, he was leaning it out.





Whatever though. Im done with this nonsense
For someone basically new to the forum you aren't making a good impression. Yes the temp gauge doesn't work well, and no the temp didn't go over 120F on the first 2 tanks without the heat gun. That's not hard to read and comprehend. So yeah...start it up and it's 90F or so and doesn't run worth a crap...it will get up to around 120F and still run like crap. That hard to understand?
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