engine break in
hey guys i just recently bought the losi 8ight-t 2.0 and i went to break it in yesterday. I attempted the heat cycling method but when it was sitting on the box it wasnt getting over 113 farienhiet. I then set it out and ran it on the ground. It still wasnt getting any hotter. I leaned out the high speed and it started getting hotter. Should i just keep leaning it out until i get it as hot enough as it should be for break in?
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Im willing to bet you have a bum temp gauge.:nod::lol: It'should be at 113 degrees a few seconds after it pops.
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Originally Posted by Shadowhope
(Post 8019701)
hey guys i just recently bought the losi 8ight-t 2.0 and i went to break it in yesterday. I attempted the heat cycling method but when it was sitting on the box it wasnt getting over 113 farienhiet. I then set it out and ran it on the ground. It still wasnt getting any hotter. I leaned out the high speed and it started getting hotter. Should i just keep leaning it out until i get it as hot enough as it should be for break in?
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Originally Posted by Dredd
(Post 8020249)
What you should do is get yourself a heat gun.
Originally Posted by Shadowhope
(Post 8019701)
I attempted the heat cycling method but when it was sitting on the box it wasnt getting over 113 farienhiet. I then set it out and ran it on the ground. It still wasnt getting any hotter.
Originally Posted by got_nitro
(Post 8020079)
Im willing to bet you have a bum temp gauge.:nod::lol: It'should be at 113 degrees a few seconds after it pops.
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Originally Posted by got_nitro
(Post 8020277)
I agree with you but to me, this says that he has a temp guage already.
Hense the reason I said this:;) You could also try wraping the cooling head with foil or something to help keep the engine temp up. My engines using Ron's break in method for the B5, never got above 110 without heating them up first. I would heat them up to as hot as a hairdryer would get(about 160) and it would be back to around 110 within 30 seconds. I've never been able to do the heat cycling method, just becasue I haven't bought an engine warmer yet, and I don't have a heat gun. If you don't have any way to get the engine warm enough, you might want to try out Ron's break in method. It's really easy, and has worked for me on the engines I have tried it with. It's on the first page of the werks B5 thread. |
Originally Posted by got_nitro
(Post 8020277)
I agree with you but to me, this says that he has a temp guage already.
Hense the reason I said this:;) One thing I did not mention is using some aluminum foil. Wrap the cooling head in aluminum foil to insulate the cooling head and keep temps in the engine and not to let it air cool so much. |
Originally Posted by bevofrancis
(Post 8020309)
He means a heat gun, not a temp gauge. That way he can use it to heat up the engine
I bet his temps were close to 200 degrees right where he wants to keep them but does not truly know it because of a faulty gauge is all I was trying to get across. |
Originally Posted by got_nitro
(Post 8020356)
I get this part too. What Im saying is if the engine was only 113 degrees after running it (im assuming for a good 1/2 of a tank) there is something wrong with the temp guage which ever one hes using or going off of.
I bet his temps were close to 200 degrees right where he wants to keep them but does not truly know it because of a faulty gauge is all I was trying to get across. |
Which one is it then? If your going by this your contradicting your self. He was at 113 degrees and you say the telm is about 10 degrees higher... Unless your saying his engine was only running at 93 degrees.:lol: I highly doubt it. Plus, he was leaning it out.:nod:
Originally Posted by Dredd
(Post 8020313)
I've found that this telemetry system is not so acurate. It shows temperatures 10deg higher than they actually are since the wire rests directly on the cooling head and not near the case.
Originally Posted by Dredd
(Post 8020392)
Not true...I broke in a Losi 350 about a month ago and the first 2 tanks did NOT go over 120F unless I used a heat gun to get the temps up. The motor was just too tight to get moving enough. That combined with the slightly rich carb settings for break in just didn't give enough heat by simply driving the buggy around.
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You gotta get these engines up to operating temp when you break them in and run it rich. Use a heat gun and some foil. Make sure your temp gun is accurate. I use an engine heater that work great. I heat the engine to 220 before I start it and then keep it from 230-260 while it's idling on the box. Then when I go to run tanks through on the street I still preheat the engine to 220 before I start is and then wrap the head with foil to keep temps in the same range. After 6 tanks it's 80% race tune and ready for the track. You gotta get it hot when you break it in. I preheT the engine until it looses all of it's metal pinch not just some.
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Originally Posted by got_nitro
(Post 8020356)
I get this part too. What Im saying is if the engine was only 113 degrees after running it (im assuming for a good 1/2 of a tank) there is something wrong with the temp guage which ever one hes using or going off of.
I bet his temps were close to 200 degrees right where he wants to keep them but does not truly know it because of a faulty gauge is all I was trying to get across. |
Originally Posted by Shadowhope
(Post 8025544)
i know it wasnt over atleast 120 because i could put my whole hand on it and it felt cooler that a rock on the ground
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Originally Posted by pntmachine
(Post 8025736)
It probably wasn't much more than that. You will usually struggle to get the temps up idling the first few tanks on the box. Like FrankL said rap the head with foil or a 1/10 scale tire foam and always heat it up before you start.
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Originally Posted by bevofrancis
(Post 8020309)
He means a heat gun, not a temp gauge. That way he can use it to heat up the engine.
You could also try wraping the cooling head with foil or something to help keep the engine temp up. My engines using Ron's break in method for the B5, never got above 110 without heating them up first. I would heat them up to as hot as a hairdryer would get(about 160) and it would be back to around 110 within 30 seconds. I've never been able to do the heat cycling method, just becasue I haven't bought an engine warmer yet, and I don't have a heat gun. If you don't have any way to get the engine warm enough, you might want to try out Ron's break in method. It's really easy, and has worked for me on the engines I have tried it with. It's on the first page of the werks B5 thread. |
Originally Posted by got_nitro
(Post 8020423)
Which one is it then? If your going by this your contradicting your self. He was at 113 degrees and you say the telm is about 10 degrees higher... Unless your saying his engine was only running at 93 degrees.:lol: I highly doubt it. Plus, he was leaning it out.:nod:
Whatever though. Im done with this nonsense:lol::cool: |
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