Racing4Evo

iTrader: (2)

Apparently the motor is selling very well. My LHS already sold teh majority of his stock and when he tried to order more they were out of stock. O.S. has a winner!

romuald31

hello from France,

in europe, we drive the E-spec version ( efra legal ) .

We have new lightenend piston with new sleeve ( agressive diagrams ) , new cranck shaft ( same design but higher diagrams ).

I use it during the french championship ( moded version by me ) on very big tracks (often 70m straight), and I have noo problems to compeet JP's or Rody's...
My TR have no problems when it's very hot ( Nova bases have....), and I ran out of fuel 1mn after the others....

Is the piston of R-spec lightened??

some pics of my OS

bye.

JLock

iTrader: (4)

FFR3582,

I thought Ron Atomic set TQ; sorry for the mistake. Yes, I was at the same race but had my own issues that I was concentrating on and was not paying attention to the other things. I stand corrected.

Darkseid

iTrader: (9)

Last year I ran my TR with 20% Blue Thunder and had no problems with lubricant. YES.......its true that it turns the inside of your engine block blue, but I haven't seen any ill results from that.

This year I made the swith to Trinity's Platinum 30% which is only 9% lubricant, so I doubt thats what you would want to run.

As for your WOT running. Yes, most of us track guys only get to do WOT on the straight, but we have to do WOT quite a bit during final break in so that we can see how well the car is doing on top end and what the engine sounds like on the top. So while its not reccomended that you do constant WOT, it shouldn't be a major factor in your high temp.

BigDogRacing

iTrader: (12)

Sean, 260 is no problem. You should be checking the temp with the big opening of the temp gun aimed down toward the glow plug- don't use the red laser when you're temping something that close. The laser is just a pointer that is only accurate a few inches away from the gun.

I would continue using O'Donnell or try White Lightening.

Once again guys- DO NOT run your motors extremely rich during break-in!! I don't know who came up with that bullshit, but running a motor extremely rich washes the cylinder walls down and doesn't get the sleeve hot enough to expand fully. Then your piston and sleeve "mate" at the wrong temps and the wrong RPMs and when you set the motor for racing conditions, the piston isn't broken in when it reaches high RPM (surely you guys don't think these motors don't have con rod stretch at 30K RPM!!!) and when the sleeve get 250-280 degrees it doesn't have the seal that it should have and you're pissed off wondering why your motor is hard to tune and not as powerful as the next guy why basically threw his new motor in the car, set it to be a little on the rich side (190 degrees) for a tank or two, then went fully bore racing!! Cause his motor was basically broken in the way a race motor SHOULD be broken in!!

sean

thanks for the info-it makes me feel better. because when i was running it at those higher temps (250-260) the motor sounded great. when i richened it up to make it cooler it sounded boggish and did not perform.

Darkseid

iTrader: (9)

Thats what you should be tuning by anyway. The sound and performance. The temp is just whats left AFTER you get those two things right.

Don't worry, your probably right where you need to be.

Just go have some fun!

BigDogRacing

iTrader: (12)

I totally agree with every part of your post DS!

If I had a dyno and the tools to do the testing I would try to prove my theory that these new motors are capable of handling 300+ deg racing temps (at the glow plug). Keep in mind that the materials and technology have come a long way in the last few years. Plus, the temps we are taking are at the steel glow plug- have you ever temped the head or block of a motor that is running 260 degrees? It's considerably less at the block.

I would like to add one thought to Dark's post- this comes from years of nitrous tuning on race motors- your ONLY window to what is happeneing inside the combustion chamber is the plug. You can tune a motor until you think it has the perfect note and the perfect temp etc etc, but until you thoroughly inspect the plug and in the best case scenario install a fresh new plug to REALLY see what's going on, you haven't completed your tuning. Next time the NMCA comes to your town, go look in the pits at the nitrous motor cars and see what the FIRST thing they do when the car comes back from a 2000+ hp 6 second pass- they pull the plugs, get out the special lighted magnifying tool and thoroughly inpect each and every plug. You might not be able to tune your motor to the ultimate tune-up like Collari or Baker, but if you never pull the plug and inspect it to see what it's doing in certain situations, you will never learn to tune correctly.

Which nitro motor website has the big long explanation on plug inspection and motor tuning where it explains all about the colors of the wire, the base of the plug etc and how to tune by reading it? I'm not at home and I forget what site it's on...

sean

i would like to see that site as well. i know nothing about reading plugs

afm

You can find all about tuning and glow plugs at Master Dennis Ritchey's web site:

http://www.richeyracingengines.com/tuning.htm

In short, one must tune the engine for max. performance and watch out that a clear trail of smoke comes out of the pipe after every acceleration coming out of turns, and that power doesn't decrease over the lenght of the tests, then read the plug, correct tuning if necessary.
After that, when you feel comfortable with performance, take a temp reading and register it for reference purpose.
Every engine and ambient condition has it's "ideal" ref. temp, but one musn't tune for temp, but for performance.
All new engines are comfortable running (racing) between 250°F and 260°F.

AFM

sook

Well I don't know about other tuners out there, but for my area the P6 is working out great in this engine. Glad I put my order in when I did, due to Tower now having the next shipment in by late September. I let the piston and sleeve soak in the oil through one rich tank, then allowed the engine to spool through a pretty lean racing condition setting. I could not even remember what the settings are at, but my estimate is that the low is turned in almost at 3/4 from std and the high has to be about 1-1/4 turns from std. factory settings. It runs great low, mid and high, with a little smoke blowing out of the dual chamber pipe around corners and more off the straight. The temp for the head here in Texas is reading around 219-222 under racing conditions with a lean setting. Good luck Sean, hope you learn to tune to your benefits. Just as a test I ran the engine through half a tank under stressfull conditions and then let it idle through the other half of the tank......guess what?.......she idled straight through till the last drop! What a great engine! Hope everyone enjoys this engine as much as I will.

Darkseid

iTrader: (9)

The P6 is also working great for me. I'm surprised since I was always told to run cold plugs with 30% nitro. Then I heard to run hot plugs any time you run turbo plugs....ahhhhhh, so much info.

So I decided to assume that O.S. knew what they were doing when they put that plug in there. So I just stopped thinking and ran the damn thing!

I know about reading plugs, at least I know how to read the extremes. I can see a plug thats running really rich or really hot, but the in betweens really take a keen eye to understand.

Racing4Evo

iTrader: (2)

The P6 is a lot like the Novarossi 6C plug. You want to run hot plugs in the .12 engines relative to .21 motors. This is when turbo plugs first started appearing in .12 motors. Now the norm, people are saying to run cold plugs because of these more powerful .12s coming out. They are becoming more and more like .21s, price wise at least.

I generally always use a 6C plug and go to a 7C when the weather gets really hot.

Darkseid

iTrader: (9)

Damn skippy!!!


Thats why the price/performance for the R-Spec is such a breath of fresh air.

sean

i have been doing a little more experimenting and getting some better results,although my TR still wants to be a little on the hot side for the best performance. this may sound like a really stupid question and i think i know the answer but i will ask anyway. if i ran 30% nitro would i be better off as far as temp? i was thinking that with a higher nitro content i could put more fuel through the engine(run it richer) hoping that maybe the increased fuel through the engine would help keep it cooler-yet not bogg it down because i have a higher nitro content which burns better? i dont know, just a thought