picco .12 p1-r evo 4 edo brake in !!HELP!!
 

i recently bought a picco evo 4 and now i have to brake it in and i need help

i know there is threads on the topic but there are that many of them

im kinda new to nitro racing and this is my first new engine i have been using pre owned ones till now so im a bit out of my depth

i will be doing the process in the car as i dont have a brake in jig

so i need to no what i need to do after the engine is instaled in the car i no nothin about the tuning, idle, rich, lean all that stuff so if somebody has broke in one of these engines and can tell me in step by step instructions i would be really greatfull and time is not a problem so the slowest best way for the life of the engine im looking for also i have a new con rod to go in after brake in so i need to know when i need to put that in and thanks in advance


ger

OMG....

Please, get some help, and not over the internet.....

+1
 

Read up as much as you can.... but you should go to your local club and ask for help.... it will save you time and money...

There is plenty of videos on YouTube.. search "nitro break in"


Some tips of mine....
Don't rush it.
use a heat-gun / hairdryer to warm it up first... (esp if the engine is very tight)
make sure its Very rich while you run it it..
good idea to inspect the engine before starting... and clean out... (but you may want to have someone help you with this. )

;););)

to answer you question on the con-rod.. replace it before you race the engine...

you will find that the guys at your local track should be more than happy to help out with a new engine.. :) best to go on a non-race day, on the weekend... that way the guys that are there are not focused on racing..

have fun with the new hobby...

hi guys i no i seem a bit crazy getting such a decent engine for my first but its not as bad i made it out to be

i have learned this much..

that on first start up richen it (high speed needle outwards) and do not over rev it shut it down after 3-4 mins and make sure the piston is not at the top of the linner and let it cool to let the metals settle do this again up to 3 times

after i have done this put it on the track (still rich loads of blue smoke) and drive it with low rpm just blipping the throttle as not to over rev or stress the engine for 5-6 tanks allowing the engine to cool between tanks (keeping the piston at the bottom of the linner)

how am i doing so far?

after thats all done begin to lean it (high speed needle inwards) one full turn till i get the revs were i want them then richen it by 1/4 of a turn (outwards) then run for another 1-2 tanks

right this is where i get lost :eek: setting the low end screw.. once i have the above set do i not need to adjust it from here on in

the idle screw im not to worried about

thanks lads but there is no hobbie shops that are set just for nitro racing and my club has a handfull of members who would know what they are talking about and not many non race days and with me not working at the minute and have to learn somehow im willing to have a go myself i have all the time in the world at the moment

anthony ling the engine is very tight so use a hairdryer as you said and i will change the rod as soon as it is broke in as ur advise

any more info or advise is welcome i wont be doing it till i get as much knowlage as i can

thanks
ger

You have described the more traditional method of engine break-in...

however... when its time to start leaning the engine don't do the "one full turn till i get the revs were i want them then richen it by 1/4 of a turn (outwards) then run for another 1-2 tanks"

Do this instead...

Gradually lean the engine during the break-in by turning the HSN 1/12 of a turn.. (think hours on a clock) at a time... 1 hour per tank... ensure there is plenty of smoke still.. once you have done 8 tanks.. you should then start to hear the engine's sound change...

For the LSN you should keep it rich during your run-in..... and once you have completed the break-in then start to think about your race tuning..