isuzuguy

iTrader: (1)

dennis are you catching any of that bad weather?

Motorman

iTrader: (1)

Thanks BB
Merry christmas to everyone from RD Logics and Me. May santee bring everyone lots of RC Toyzz.

Yes I believe that Hudy and Integy arbors will fit the RD logics tire truers.

Swen got your PM. Getting out of the novarossi business period The crank you mention will drop right in and work. I'm no longer doing any work on the old small novarossi cranks. They break within a few runs. They started using real cheap metal.

Motorman

iTrader: (1)

It was ugly here for a few days theres 6 to 12 on the ground depending on where you live in the michigan area. Ohio and below us is who got pummeled though 18 to 24 in some places.

Jon Carlson

iTrader: (48)

Well this is an old C12 crank from when they first came out, any chance I can send it to you and have it tuned up like the sg crank I have? How much difference does the work on the crank make?

Hope you had a Merry Christmas.

Jon

isuzuguy

iTrader: (1)

hey dennis 'sound like its time to pull out the r/c snowmobile

Motorman

iTrader: (1)

Its called an airplane to south florida in 30 days

Jon Carlson

iTrader: (48)

Dennis- Will having the unmodded crank in there effect the balance of the motor? Also will it change the performance alot? Thanks for all you help in the past and in advance for everything you do.

Jon

bbntc3

Hi Dennis what's up with the Richie/RD Signature series engines? Its been hush hush. Did you get the cases and finish the project and they are all gone?? or are you still waiting on the supplier? Bob

Motorman

iTrader: (1)

Bob
the signature was to be based on the long rod engine, as we still have legal issues surrounding that issue it is on indefinate hold and I am focusing on the R3. The R3 continues to impress me.

The Richey Racing Dynomometer will be up and running in the next 2 weeks and we will be using it alot to push the R3 to the next level. There are some folks holding out for a signature engine and I can tell you that realistically the R3 is really good and if it was me I wouldn't hold out (as It may never happen) as we have seen stock ones qualify and finish very high at some significant races in the last few months. To bring it right to the Novarossi level adding .2 mm more exhaust height is all that is required. we will be making a running change to 4.7 or 4.8 exhaust port height in the next few months. However I believe the dyno will tell us a whole lot.

JAG Racing

Well, I just started my new R3 engine today and I ran 4 - 5 tanks of fuel while closely monitoring engine temperatures. Engine temp never exceeded 210 (actually took quite some time to even get to 190 degrees on the first tank) and I was careful in keeping RPMs at a reasonable level during the last two tanks. After the fourth tank, engine temperature decreased considerably and I had to lean the engine slightly to get the temperature back up to the 185-200 degree range. During the 5th tank, the engine was breathing a little better (with minor carb adj.) and maintaning 200 degrees. I am still keeping my leadfinger out of the way but it is real tempting now. The engine is starting much easier now. I plan on racing it next weekend so I want to run a few more tanks a 1/2 - 3/4 throttle runs. So far so good.....

Dennis - Do you think I can do some quick temperature cycling on the bench to help speed up the break-in time? Example, 3 minutes run at 200 degress, then shut engine off for 3 - 5 minutes for example, then repeat process.

bbntc3

I think I'll go with the Rex RER12S-3 With TopGun 777 Piston/sleeve combo in it. Since the signature is a wash out. I've been told they are a missle on steroids!! I've been using Topguns piston/sleeve combos in engines all last season and I've been very impressed!!! They seem to make the best power and last the longest of any piston/sleeve combo I've ever used. Good look with you venture Dennis!! Bob

JAG Racing

Well, got my first run in 2005 using my new DRR R3 engine just after the break-in process was completed. The parking lot track was small and I kept the engine in the low 200's b/c it is still new. The results were very good. The R3 was strong off the line with good low to mid-range power. For the top-end band, it was pulling in most of the guys who ran "modified" engines. I can't wait to see how it does on the larger tracks in the area.

I finally have an engine that gives me a chance !

HarKonnenD

iTrader: (23)

Sounds sweet. I gotta buy one for myself. Forget the Sirio Evo2 then.

YR4Dude

iTrader: (44)

Hi,

I just got my R3 today. According to the instructions that came in the box, it says to run one tank through at idle and the next serveral tanks (up to 1 litre = 13 tanks; @75cc/ tank) on the track while giving 50%to 80% throttle bursts. All this while keeping it under 220F.

Thats okay but other than midrange, there was no suggested starting point for the low and high end adjustments.

Can I get a suggested starting point as a base adjustment. Also, is my interepretation of the breakin instruction correct? Please advise.

One last thing, at the start of this thread you show a prototype motor with an alum. carb. The motor I received had a composite carb which is okay because STS motors usually come with composite carb. Was this done as a cost cutting measure? Did you originally specified an alum. carb for any performance advantages? If I were to swap the alum. carb from a Novarossi or MT12 would I get any advantages or would I mess up the motors performance? Please advise.

Thanks.

JAG Racing

YR4 -

My R3 was received with the high and low set pretty rich which makes sense. After the first tank on the starter box, I started to lean out the high-end so that the tempertures would get to the proper break-in range of 200 - 210.

As far as starting points go, I can only tell you that the factory settings were adequate to start the car and run the first tank on the starter box. Ambient temps /humidity being a couple of many variables I did have to turn in the high-end adjustment 1/2 to 3/4 turn so that the engine temperature would get to 190 - 200 degrees after the first tank. Now that I have 13 15 tanks through the engine, my high-end adjustment is 2 turns out CCW from bottom. I am using a 7 turbo plug with 30% Nitro fuel. As far as the low-end adjustment, it is maybe 1/8 to 1/4 more CW than when I received it. I guess I should have documented the factory settings for future use. Maybe Motorman can tell us the default carb settings soon.

One thing I noticed was the high-end carb adjustment needle is "tough" to turn. I guess those O-rings will soon wear just a bit so it will soon be easier to turn. Let me know how you like the engine!