Palmaris engine thread
#1681
Originally posted by InitialD
Ummmm... You need to mount the crankshaft to a protractor for that.
Ummmm... You need to mount the crankshaft to a protractor for that.
Mine is also like that in the pic after a hard run. Is the plug condition ok? Coil pressed in or out?
p/s: Geez... Did your dirt filter expired?
#1682
Originally posted by Top Gun 777
Sound to me that it is not closing on time.
Sound to me that it is not closing on time.
#1683
Originally posted by markp27
You can probably see, too, from the picture that the HSN is turned in pretty far.
Cheers, Mark.
You can probably see, too, from the picture that the HSN is turned in pretty far.
Cheers, Mark.
Actualy the darker is combustion chamber is better ( I don't mean varnish), it means that combustion process was very effective.
To mesure timing on indction, you need to get 360 Deg protractor.
Step 1 : install protractor on cranckshaft and install engine on some sort of stand ( remove carb to see window on cranck)
Step 2 : Install needle ( I use sharpened on the end 2 mm steel wire) on stand and make sure that when cranck on BDC that needl is on "0" degree position.
Step 3: Start turning cranck counter clockwise till induction window just open-this is your opening timing ( you will see number on protractor where needl is pointing).
Step 4: Keep turning shaft till windows is close and see the number on protractor pointing by needle-it will be your closing timing.
If you use 360 deree protractor for closing you will need to substract from closing number 180 and it will be you closing n number-it will be somewhere between 55-70 degree ( not sure what will you have), if you use 180 degree prottractor-the closing number will be real number and doesn't need any other action.
To make mesurment more precise, I use small strip of thin paper (.05-0.08 mm) and stick it in indcution window-on opening I open further, stick strip and close till cranck stop moveing because paper will stack between cranck's window and case window, for closing the same, just stick paper strip and keep turning till shaft stop because paper will stack between cranck and case.
I think I expalne as best as I could. I am sure I did made mistake, and I applogise for it ( You know-Russian ). I hope it will help everybody to mesure induction timing.
I think you need to try tune your engine after you run at list half a tank ( for first time tuning).
Edward
#1684
Originally posted by InitialD
How do you solve this Ed if it's true that it's not closing on time? Colder or hotter plug?
How do you solve this Ed if it's true that it's not closing on time? Colder or hotter plug?
#1685
Ed, even after running several laps, I couldn't get any heat into the engine. PalmarisEurope has suggested that I use a smaller head - the JP is the 11 Fin version - this would get the temperature up.
When I had the engine running below the point where is went lean, the motor was at least as fast a my friends modified Mega, so the speed is already there - it is just the temperature which is totally out.
When I had the engine running below the point where is went lean, the motor was at least as fast a my friends modified Mega, so the speed is already there - it is just the temperature which is totally out.
#1686
Originally posted by Top Gun 777
I would sugest to stay with #7 for most of the cases ( 6 for EFRA in Europe). Just worm up engine really good before you do your initial race tunning. His combustion chamber looks pretty good for me, Check the pipe, might be too short for that particular load.
I would sugest to stay with #7 for most of the cases ( 6 for EFRA in Europe). Just worm up engine really good before you do your initial race tunning. His combustion chamber looks pretty good for me, Check the pipe, might be too short for that particular load.
#1687
Originally posted by markp27
Ed, even after running several laps, I couldn't get any heat into the engine. PalmarisEurope has suggested that I use a smaller head - the JP is the 11 Fin version - this would get the temperature up.
When I had the engine running below the point where is went lean, the motor was at least as fast a my friends modified Mega, so the speed is already there - it is just the temperature which is totally out.
Ed, even after running several laps, I couldn't get any heat into the engine. PalmarisEurope has suggested that I use a smaller head - the JP is the 11 Fin version - this would get the temperature up.
When I had the engine running below the point where is went lean, the motor was at least as fast a my friends modified Mega, so the speed is already there - it is just the temperature which is totally out.
Edward
#1688
Originally posted by markp27
Normally I would switch to a #7 when the temp goes above 25C (approx 80F) - do you think I should change to a #7 even at cooler temps? I have one still from the Winternats, I could try it out if you think it would help in this case?
Normally I would switch to a #7 when the temp goes above 25C (approx 80F) - do you think I should change to a #7 even at cooler temps? I have one still from the Winternats, I could try it out if you think it would help in this case?
Did you try 0.2 mm shimming?
#1689
Originally posted by Top Gun 777
I stay with O'Donnell 99T all the time, unless I am out of them. Regardless ambient.
Did you try 0.2 mm shimming?
I stay with O'Donnell 99T all the time, unless I am out of them. Regardless ambient.
Did you try 0.2 mm shimming?
I'm on a head clearence of 0.3mm, that means 1 x 0.1mm shim. I measure the head clearence with solder. I also tried 0.4mm head clearence, but the result was the same.
I must say, Ed, I've never seen an engine with this much low end power - I'm going to have to work on my clutch a bit to better transfer the power.
I crashed into the fence at the edge of the circuit once, as the car simply accelerated so quickly out of a corner, I just wan't ready for it
#1690
Originally posted by Top Gun 777
I see. use smaller cooling head, JPs are realy big. Anyway, try to get timings numbers for me, I am sure you have something to alter.
Edward
I see. use smaller cooling head, JPs are realy big. Anyway, try to get timings numbers for me, I am sure you have something to alter.
Edward
#1691
Originally posted by markp27
Can't get O'Ds here - I take it a Novarossi 7TF would be the same? I'll try it out.
I'm on a head clearence of 0.3mm, that means 1 x 0.1mm shim. I measure the head clearence with solder. I also tried 0.4mm head clearence, but the result was the same.
I must say, Ed, I've never seen an engine with this much low end power - I'm going to have to work on my clutch a bit to better transfer the power.
I crashed into the fence at the edge of the circuit once, as the car simply accelerated so quickly out of a corner, I just wan't ready for it
Can't get O'Ds here - I take it a Novarossi 7TF would be the same? I'll try it out.
I'm on a head clearence of 0.3mm, that means 1 x 0.1mm shim. I measure the head clearence with solder. I also tried 0.4mm head clearence, but the result was the same.
I must say, Ed, I've never seen an engine with this much low end power - I'm going to have to work on my clutch a bit to better transfer the power.
I crashed into the fence at the edge of the circuit once, as the car simply accelerated so quickly out of a corner, I just wan't ready for it
Use 7 TF, they are working really good too. I just use O'D because I tested for durability and found they are most trustable.
#1692
Originally posted by Top Gun 777
I think I expalne as best as I could. I am sure I did made mistake, and I applogise for it ( You know-Russian ). I hope it will help everybody to mesure induction timing.
I think I expalne as best as I could. I am sure I did made mistake, and I applogise for it ( You know-Russian ). I hope it will help everybody to mesure induction timing.
#1693
Originally posted by Top Gun 777
Hi Mark. Try 0.3 mm shimming ( not head clearance-shimming).
Use 7 TF, they are working really good too. I just use O'D because I tested for durability and found they are most trustable.
Hi Mark. Try 0.3 mm shimming ( not head clearance-shimming).
Use 7 TF, they are working really good too. I just use O'D because I tested for durability and found they are most trustable.
I'll switch to 7TF - anyone need some 6TFs?
#1694
Originally posted by markp27
Ok, so with the Novarossi built in 0.2mm head clearence, that means the head clearence would be 0.5mm in total - is this correct?
I'll switch to 7TF - anyone need some 6TFs?
Ok, so with the Novarossi built in 0.2mm head clearence, that means the head clearence would be 0.5mm in total - is this correct?
I'll switch to 7TF - anyone need some 6TFs?
I just posted on 3hobby you should try 0.5mm head clearance.
Just a thought. What crankshaft are you using? I used normal NSR one and was going to try the JP one. This will increase the pressure in the head so would advance the timing
Cheers
#1695
Originally posted by ziggy12345
Lol i just changed to 7s.
I just posted on 3hobby you should try 0.5mm head clearance.
Just a thought. What crankshaft are you using? I used normal NSR one and was going to try the JP one. This will increase the pressure in the head so would advance the timing
Cheers
Lol i just changed to 7s.
I just posted on 3hobby you should try 0.5mm head clearance.
Just a thought. What crankshaft are you using? I used normal NSR one and was going to try the JP one. This will increase the pressure in the head so would advance the timing
Cheers
Do you think the JP Crank isn't so good with the Palmaris?