"the break in bible"
#91
One of the processes of heated aluminium is that it will expand due some changes on atomic level. Every time you heat it up to a higher temp this proces will go on.
A heat cycle run-in proces will tackle this working while running in and should give a better fitting piston at the end of the run-in proces, otherwise it can take some liters before the piston gets realy loose.
It is not to tell which engine needs this, depening on the alloy it has this effect.
A heat cycle run-in proces will tackle this working while running in and should give a better fitting piston at the end of the run-in proces, otherwise it can take some liters before the piston gets realy loose.
It is not to tell which engine needs this, depening on the alloy it has this effect.
#93
Im going to get my first ever nitro rc vehicle tomorrow and Im nervous.
I ordered 30% OD fuel, but Ive been told that I should have got 20% for break in.
Will 30% during break in be bad?
I ordered 30% OD fuel, but Ive been told that I should have got 20% for break in.
Will 30% during break in be bad?
#94
Exactly. I remember some RB .12's back in the day that if you ever overheated them (say 300f or more) the things would get monster tight and you would have to break it in all over again. Of course, it also made a good way of getting some more life out of a worn out motor. Just required a blowtorch instead of a pincher.
#95
#98
ok, so im about to try this method. but i read some posts say "run it on the box" what are they referring to with that?
#100
To reiterate. The key to running engines is to preheat , heat cycle , moving piston from pinch zone during cool down periods (and for the life of the engine for good measure)and do not overrev during first gallon or so .
Last edited by houston; 09-29-2009 at 07:07 PM.
#101
Regarding the recomendation I think they want to run it full throttle on a rich setting on the box, this is done a lot before going on the track and finish the running in proces.
#102
Tech Rookie
Thanks for the info folks; sure will help just got my Firestorm and don't want to blow things up. I read the manual and watched the DVD that described the box method basically. But the other method mentioned made sense. Thanks to the original poster and the Bump to bring things back to the forefront.
#103
Run it real rich and buy you a heat gun keeping temps above 212 F before and after starting.Don't over rev, take your time and watch that itchy finger.Let the engine cool with piston at BDC and repeat.When you can spin flywheel with finger at running temp then let it rip!!!
#104
Monty
After your first 10-15 tanks of break-in. (heat cycling and running rich on the
ground) How do you break-in the rest of the gallon of fuel? You said you would not race an engine until it had a gallon of fuel through it. I have one
of Mark's engine warmers I pre-heat before I start it so my FMS break-in is
going very slow.
After your first 10-15 tanks of break-in. (heat cycling and running rich on the
ground) How do you break-in the rest of the gallon of fuel? You said you would not race an engine until it had a gallon of fuel through it. I have one
of Mark's engine warmers I pre-heat before I start it so my FMS break-in is
going very slow.
#105
Monty
After your first 10-15 tanks of break-in. (heat cycling and running rich on the
ground) How do you break-in the rest of the gallon of fuel? You said you would not race an engine until it had a gallon of fuel through it. I have one
of Mark's engine warmers I pre-heat before I start it so my FMS break-in is
going very slow.
After your first 10-15 tanks of break-in. (heat cycling and running rich on the
ground) How do you break-in the rest of the gallon of fuel? You said you would not race an engine until it had a gallon of fuel through it. I have one
of Mark's engine warmers I pre-heat before I start it so my FMS break-in is
going very slow.