Novarossi engines thread
#2311
Tech Apprentice
#2312
Tech Regular
Regarding the question of when to replace a connecting rod - need to add in all the occasions when you've over revved your engine i.e. two speed mis shifting causing it to go to neutral, when you've had radio issues (recently had a battery pack shift and short out, couldn't hear it from the stand but i'm assuming it revved up because the rod broke next time out) and if you want to be real conservative, when you've run a long main and gotten tires down super small towards the end, compard to the cost of a whole motor a connecting rod is a good investment and easy to change (don't forget the new pin clips either)
#2314
Regarding the question of when to replace a connecting rod - need to add in all the occasions when you've over revved your engine i.e. two speed mis shifting causing it to go to neutral, when you've had radio issues (recently had a battery pack shift and short out, couldn't hear it from the stand but i'm assuming it revved up because the rod broke next time out) and if you want to be real conservative, when you've run a long main and gotten tires down super small towards the end, compard to the cost of a whole motor a connecting rod is a good investment and easy to change (don't forget the new pin clips either)
They once made a conrod which was so hard, it snapped within 2 tanks of fuel.
A conrod needs to have some flex, so even without visible wear, the possibility exists that it gets tired.
So replacing a conrod on a regular basis is better then only check for visible wear......
A wrist pin will cost about?... 2 bucks?, so I always replace them to.....
#2315
#2318
Tech Initiate
The bearing (much probably the front) was bad. Have ceramic bearings on many different engines ( .12's, .21... Sirios, Novarossi/JP, Ninja) and all work really well no problems with the tunning at all.
Check that front bearing has the front shield ok, is correctly seated and you do not have airleaks on the engine.
Check that front bearing has the front shield ok, is correctly seated and you do not have airleaks on the engine.
And when do you know if you need to replace them?
#2320
The key for not ruining a ceramic bearing is to baby it (no high rpms, run them slightly rich) for around 3 or 4 tanks to allow it to fully seat on the bearing races and not spin the balls, if you manage to break-in correctly, the bearing will survive your engine.
#2321
Tech Master
iTrader: (7)
Depends, but... had some that survived to the practical life of the crankshaft without problems. You will know you need to change them when moving it with the finger it feels gritty.
The key for not ruining a ceramic bearing is to baby it (no high rpms, run them slightly rich) for around 3 or 4 tanks to allow it to fully seat on the bearing races and not spin the balls, if you manage to break-in correctly, the bearing will survive your engine.
The key for not ruining a ceramic bearing is to baby it (no high rpms, run them slightly rich) for around 3 or 4 tanks to allow it to fully seat on the bearing races and not spin the balls, if you manage to break-in correctly, the bearing will survive your engine.
#2323
I got a problem with my engine, it is very hard to start and when it finally starts i can run a few laps when it cuts out again and is again very hard to start. We thought it might be the plug so we changed it from an novarossi c6tgc average to a c7tgc cold plug. This didn't help. i also replaced the fuel lines (Which i do before every race) checked if the flywheel was hitting something which wasn't the case. I also checked the clutch and it looked good.
I checked the carb and cleaned it with fuel but there wasn't any wear i could see.
Does anyone have any other suggestions that i can try? As i am quite confused what to do now.
I have attached a picture of the engine.
I checked the carb and cleaned it with fuel but there wasn't any wear i could see.
Does anyone have any other suggestions that i can try? As i am quite confused what to do now.
I have attached a picture of the engine.
#2324
ICE:
How much compression/pinch does it have? the piston has quite a few scratches on it. Do you clean/re-oil your air filter regularly? use after run?
how hot do you run it? if the p/s fit is loose, then when it warms up it will stall because of heat expansion.
How much compression/pinch does it have? the piston has quite a few scratches on it. Do you clean/re-oil your air filter regularly? use after run?
how hot do you run it? if the p/s fit is loose, then when it warms up it will stall because of heat expansion.