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Old 11-03-2004, 08:02 PM   #556
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The stock shim is an alum .3mm I have some spare copper .1mm shims so i guess i will try that first. The pipe is a 1 piece flanged pipe so i cant change the length. To messure a pipe length you messure from the back bend of the header to the rib in the pipe body correct? Is restricting the stinger an option or is this a nono?
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Old 11-03-2004, 08:04 PM   #557
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
What's the length of the pipe and manifold combo? Is yours a two piece pipe? Try making it slightly longer. You could also add 0.1 mm shim under the combustion chamber head. What is the stock shims that come with the IDM?
Yeah D, we thought the same, i was suggesting a longer header. But apart from knowing what stock shims he has, it would help to also what % nitro fuel he's using.

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Old 11-03-2004, 08:09 PM   #558
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Quote:
Originally posted by rcosmax
The stock shim is an alum .3mm I have some spare copper .1mm shims so i guess i will try that first. The pipe is a 1 piece flanged pipe so i cant change the length. To messure a pipe length you messure from the back bend of the header to the rib in the pipe body correct? Is restricting the stinger an option or is this a nono?
Stock .3mm shim is good for up to 30% nitro. What % nitro fuel are you using??
Yes you can make your header longer even if it is an in-line pipe combo, just cut a silicone normal header coupler to 2mm thin slices and put them in between header and pipe. Springs we'll hold it tight, and try with one and so on.

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Old 11-03-2004, 08:24 PM   #559
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Quote:
Originally posted by afm
Yeah D, we thought the same, i was suggesting a longer header. But apart from knowing what stock shims he has, it would help to also what % nitro fuel he's using.
I think in Japan, racers there do not use more than 25% nitro for 1/10th scale...
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Old 11-03-2004, 08:31 PM   #560
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Thank you afm and Initial D I am using 30% fuel so the stock .3mm shim should be ok by itself? Most of the tracks I race at everyone uses 30% but this is not jmfra sanctioned racing. I will try spacing the header with the cut 2mm gasket. Still wondering if i can restrict the stinger with 5.2 mm tubing because that would be much easier than buying a new pipe.

Your help is really appreciated.
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Old 11-03-2004, 08:32 PM   #561
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
I think in Japan, racers there do not use more than 25% nitro for 1/10th scale...
So if he is currently with .3mm shim, he could use two .1mm shims to a total of .2mm head shim and will work good with 20- 25 % Nitro.Dont you think??

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Old 11-03-2004, 08:35 PM   #562
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Quote:
Originally posted by rcosmax
Thank you afm and Initial D I am using 30% fuel so the stock .3mm shim should be ok by itself? Most of the tracks I race at everyone uses 30% but this is not jmfra sanctioned racing. I will try spacing the header with the cut 2mm gasket. Still wondering if i can restrict the stinger with 5.2 mm tubing because that would be much easier than buying a new pipe.

Your help is really appreciated.
First try the header lenght...see results...then think about restriction of stinger.

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Old 11-03-2004, 08:47 PM   #563
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OK thanks very much for your help.
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Old 11-11-2004, 01:40 PM   #564
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Default tuning rr12l3

I have gone thru about 7 tanks and the engine is still very tight. Still have to heat with heat gun in order to start it. But once started, run fantastic!!! No flame outs and lots of torque. Ballistic acceleration with low end needle leaned half a turn from stock and the high speed needle leaned almost quarter turn from stock. Now I do see a trail of white smoke when accelerating but concerned about aoil consumption. I think the engine is still rich on the high end but I had to lean out the low end in order to get the engine to idle. After almost every tank I had to turn down the idle speed to stop wheels from spinning/clutch engagement as the engine is getting stronger. Should I start to richen the low speed needle too??? Seems like when I richen the low speed needle, the car bogs and fails to idle. I am using 30% blue thunder and have no clue what the head temp is as my cheap temp gun is no good!!! Maybe someone could recommend me a temp gun that works beyong body temp!!!
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Old 11-11-2004, 02:30 PM   #565
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The best tunning advice is to change to a fuel on par with the engine. I use Byron or Oddonell. The setting window of that blue stuff gave me a lot of trouble with my NSR.
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Old 11-11-2004, 02:42 PM   #566
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Default Drake engine

Don't be concern of spare parts. I use to have a Mugen MT-12 piston and sleve on one of those engines. I just took off the orientation pin from the block.
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Old 11-12-2004, 03:45 PM   #567
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Default Top / Novarossi Online Shop

Can someone give me some website (Trusty one) that selling TOP or Novarossi .12 engine please?

Seem like there's no one got those engine in stock!


thanks
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Old 11-12-2004, 05:48 PM   #568
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www.nitrohouse.com

Kinda pricey tho.
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Kyosho RRR Evo2
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Old 11-12-2004, 08:43 PM   #569
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www.dogboneind.com
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Old 11-13-2004, 07:08 AM   #570
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Default NS12S5 vs JPS5

Guys, gotta ask this... Which 1 is better?, the NS12S5 or JPS5... Both in 2nd hand condition but the NS12S5 is slightly better condition...
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