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Old 09-06-2004, 06:57 PM   #481
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Default Plug ?

Hi,
Just got a NSR12S3 and wanted to know what the standard plug that comes with the motor is............anyone?....also....what would be the best plug to run in the motor.........i run 20% O'Donnell in 85 to 95 deg F w/ 50 to 95 humity.......last question........I've read that the NSR and RR like high temps........what range would you recommend run the motor at?

thanks
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Old 09-06-2004, 07:00 PM   #482
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the novarossi .12 turbo engines usually come with 5 glowplugs from factory......

i suggest you to make the breakin process with this plug and then try a new plug to run the engine normally....
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Old 09-06-2004, 08:24 PM   #483
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Quote:
Originally posted by SalvadoriRacing
the novarossi .12 turbo engines usually come with 5 glowplugs from factory......

i suggest you to make the breakin process with this plug and then try a new plug to run the engine normally....
It came with a 6, but I'm don't know if its a c6tgc or a c6tgf ....... and do you know the difference between them and and c6tc / c6tf??
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Old 09-06-2004, 08:29 PM   #484
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the "C" is "caldo" (italian) = hot

the "f" is "freddo"............= cold.....

the cold you should use in a "dry" ambient......

the hot works better when the weather is humid......
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Old 09-06-2004, 09:07 PM   #485
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Some info I got for my RR12L5...long stroke 5 port but same vain as the 3 port...

Usually we run the hot plug(No.5) on cold weather(say 30deg C below), and
cold plug(no.6) on hot weather(like 30deg C above). However, it is better to
use no.5 plug because it gives you more power and better idling. The downside
of using no.5 plug is you change the plug more often than no.6.

Since there are a lot of factors to consider in using the plug like temperature,
humidity and altitude of your location, the best result can be obtained in trying
both plugs.

There are two ways we do here the breaking in. One is heat cycle and the
other is the instruction made by novarossi inside your engine box. Here is how
to break-in the engine by heat cycle;
1) put fuel in the tank. Take out the plug. Cover the stinger and open the carb
(half open only) and crank the engine until the fuel is coming out
of the combustion chamber. Purpose of this is to lubricate the internal
parts of the engine and do not stress the conrod.
2) Put back the plug and place the carb in idle position or 1/8 open. Now start
and run the engine for 2-3 minutes. Check the temperature. You should have
a temperature at around 80deg centigrade. That is perfect.
3) Let the engine cool down. Then start and run again the engine for 2-3
minutes. Do this procedure four times.
4) Now run your car in track and start leaning your engine. Try to lean your
engine with a temperature up to 90 to 95 deg cent only.
5) Now check your idling, your engine should idle for about 10 seconds. If not
try to lean the low needle and check again the idling. If the idling sounds
high, turn the idling screw counterclockwise up to your desire idling.

Try to use 25% tornado fuel. That is what we are using here.
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Old 09-06-2004, 09:08 PM   #486
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Default Nova Plugs

TC5-C (long body hot filament)
>> TC5-F (short body hot filament)
>> TC6-C (long body medium)
>> TC6-F (short body medium)
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Old 09-06-2004, 10:46 PM   #487
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Quote:
Originally posted by c1 racin
It came with a 6, but I'm don't know if its a c6tgc or a c6tgf ....... and do you know the difference between them and and c6tc / c6tf??
ABOUT TURBO GLOW PLUGS

Turbo Glow Plugs where designed to give more performance to an engine, for the following reasons:

· It forms an uninterrupted combustion chamber.
· The advantage of better heat transfer or heat dissipation, and a leak proof seal, generated by the conical seat of the plug.
· The greater choice of thermal ranges, that allow for more precise tuning according to variations in weather conditions (temperature, humidity, height, barometric pressure, etc.).

The numbers and characters on the plugs, are the product number, wire thickness, and thermal range of the plug’s body. Example: The Mega Turbo 2315 6TF

§ Product Number: 2315
§ Wire Thickness: 6
§ Plug Type: T (Turbo)
§ Thermal Range: F (Fredda)(Cold)

The plugs with cold thermal range F(Fredda), have a body with thinner walls, so they dissipate heat better and faster to the engine head. So because of that:

· When the ambient temperature is high, we have to use a plug with thicker wire.
· Humidity determines if we use a Cold (F) thermal range, or Hot (C)(Calda) thermal range.
· With high humidity percentage we should use a Hot (C) thermal range plug.
· If we have high temperature and high humidity, we should use a plug with thick wire and a Hot(C) thermal range.

The best instrument to determine which Turbo Plug to use, is those weather panels they sell for Yachts, that have Temp, Humidity and Barometric Pressure on them. Have it calibrated at your local weather station, and bingo, you’re ready like the Pros.
That is the key to success or failure tuning engines with Turbo Glow Plugs, because they are so sensitive to weather variations that is unbelievable.

Following is a selection chart for Novarossi Turbo Glow Plugs:

TypeThermal Range Nitro%Temp.CHumidity%

C5TGCHot/hot wire10-20 0-10 70-100
C6TGCHot/average wire10-20 10-16 70-100
C7TGCHot/cold wire20-30 16-25 70-100
C8TGCHot/ultra cold wire 20-30 25-up 70-100
C5TGFCold/hot wire20-30 0-10 40-70
C6TGFCold/average wire20-30 10-15 40-70
C7TGFCold/cold wire 20-up 16-25 40-70
C8TGFCold/ultra cold wire 20-up 25-up 40-70

AFM
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Old 09-07-2004, 05:09 PM   #488
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Default Thanks

That's some of the stuff I wanted to know, the NSR12S3 I just got is my first turbo motor. I have had R&B, Collart and other Novarossi motors but never a turbo motor. This past weekend I went to a race with the new motor and couldn't get it to stay consisently. It would run fine at night, then the next morning it wouold run fine for about 2 min. then just die. Never ran above 255, even seemed to be loading up on the bottom end. I was like...........UGH..........
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Old 09-07-2004, 05:25 PM   #489
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too lean on the top?? That motor should run well below that temp.
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Old 09-07-2004, 08:05 PM   #490
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I am trying to rebuild and reset my IDM Novarossi .12 3 port. It uses the novarossi 3 needle carb. Could anyone please let me know the factory needle settings on this carb?
main needle
mixture needle
lowspeed needle

Thank you very much.
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Old 09-07-2004, 08:23 PM   #491
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Default Re: Thanks

Quote:
Originally posted by c1 racin
It would run fine at night, then the next morning it wouold run fine for about 2 min. then just die. Never ran above 255, even seemed to be loading up on the bottom end. I was like...........UGH..........
Running at night and day time would require different carb settings. If you set your engine to run fine at night, then during the day time you need to lean a little bit more. Oxygen in the air is lesser during day time than night and therefore less fuel (leaner carb setting) is required for the same air fuel ratio.

From what you mentioned, I believe the low end is a little rich and flaming out the engine.
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Old 09-07-2004, 09:42 PM   #492
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Quote:
Originally posted by Racing4Evo
No, it is a stock ReR3. I have not heard of any mario rossi rex .12 engines. The only one's I have seen are .21 size.
There are "Tuned" versions of the RERS3 out there...Just not many of them.
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Old 09-07-2004, 10:30 PM   #493
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can i get some advice on head shims on a RS 12 S5 turbo
I've got this motor new and have done about 1-2 litres through it.

Is it normal to have 3 head shims installed in these engines? there is currently 3 silver head shims in it. 1 VERY VERY thin one and 2 other silver novarossi head shims. basically when the engine had 2 head shims (1 thin, 1 normal silver) i didnt know how to tune this engine and always tried to tune the bottom end needle first which caused the bottom end to be to lean and flame out etc.. but i was told to install another head shim so i did that now that i have 3 head shims, just yesterday while trying to tune the engine i instinctively learnt that i had to tune the top end first! now the engine runs fine doesnt stall but i feel that the compression feels low when you turn the flywheel slowly with no force, yet if i was to try and turn the flywheel quickly with my finger i could feel the compression. thats my breif description of how the engine performs (need more time with the engine to give a more precise description) but basically am i on the right track with the head shims? as i would think i need to get the head shims right before trying to learn how to tune the engine perfectly.
also im running 16% nitro and now running a #6 novarossi turbo plug. (and the plug is new just changed it when i blew the #5 plug)
all comments appreciated! thanks
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Old 09-08-2004, 01:12 AM   #494
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Hi

There is a large thread about head shimming here

Head Shimming for 30% or 40%

Use a piece of solder to measure your head clearance. Insert in the glowplug hole and turn over the engine. This will flatten the end. Measure the thickness of the flat with a vernier and thats the head clearance.

For 16% it should be around 0.016" for 25% around 0.020"

Cheers
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Old 09-08-2004, 04:29 AM   #495
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Quote:
Originally posted by ziggy12345
Hi

There is a large thread about head shimming here

Head Shimming for 30% or 40%

Use a piece of solder to measure your head clearance. Insert in the glowplug hole and turn over the engine. This will flatten the end. Measure the thickness of the flat with a vernier and thats the head clearance.

For 16% it should be around 0.016" for 25% around 0.020"

Cheers
thanks Ziggy i need one of those digital verniers! no way i can get that 0.018 figure on a scale vernier.

but apart from that do you think im putting too many shims in? after reading that headshim thread im pretty sure that the VERY VERY thin shim is the 0.08 shim and the other 2 silver novarossi shims are 0.010 so maybe i have 0.028 mm shimmed installed? so basically does it sound normal to have 0.028mm shimmed on 2-3 litred old novarossi engine? maybe it was just my bad tuning skills that made it flame out the first week. (trying to tune the bottom end lean first)
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