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Old 10-12-2012, 03:46 AM   #4456
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Before the coated pistons there were a lot of issues with damaged pistons at the exhaust port, they looked like they had to less lubrication in conbination with a tight pinch and so the surface of the piston showed as it was rubbed.

The coating was a some kind of DLC which creates a very low friction surface. But after running in the part where it touched the sleeve most had no coating anymore. Probably they have done it to give it a smoother run-in for not damaging the piston.
In the real automotive industry (as I was tod for sure with Mercedes) this is also done a lot on the crankpins.
Oh ok. I see. Which one would you chose over the other? Flash or keep on?
Also, out of the 9886, 2052, 2015, and 2006 pipes which has the most top end?
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Old 10-12-2012, 04:47 AM   #4457
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If you have an unlimited budged go for the latest top model. If you are just a good or less driver (and to be honest, most serious drivers know what to choose) I would go for the rocksolid 35-plus-21 with a steel bearing. It is affordable, has goed performance and the steel bearing last longer.
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Old 10-15-2012, 04:28 AM   #4458
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use 97,99 will lost some power
Yesterday i tried using odonnel 77 and after inspecting the plug it did look like the underneath whole is much bigger than the nova one so compression is reduced and it was also felt on the track especially the acceleration.

Am i right or is the clutch slipping a bit

Engine is a 12PT
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Old 10-17-2012, 01:15 PM   #4459
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I would go for the rocksolid 35-plus-21 with a steel bearing.
Roelof ........ For the same price wich one :35-plus-21 or Collari edition?

Thanks GHN
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Old 10-17-2012, 02:01 PM   #4460
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Which Collari? The older Cordoba edition has a smaller crankpin, the Lostallo edition has the 5mm crankpin. The smaller crankpin has some issues......
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Old 10-17-2012, 05:16 PM   #4461
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Which Collari?
The Novarossi Collari WC09 or the 35+21 steel?

GHN
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Old 10-18-2012, 01:51 AM   #4462
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The Collari WC09 has the R7 rod again and som other advantages. So if you can get it for (almost) the same price it is a good choice.
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Old 10-18-2012, 05:35 AM   #4463
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The Collari WC09 has the R7 rod again and som other advantages. So if you can get it for (almost) the same price it is a good choice.
Thank you for your help.

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Old 10-18-2012, 11:04 AM   #4464
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Yesterday i tried using odonnel 77 and after inspecting the plug it did look like the underneath whole is much bigger than the nova one so compression is reduced and it was also felt on the track especially the acceleration.

Am i right or is the clutch slipping a bit

Engine is a 12PT
i don't think the plug underneath whole will effect the acceleration so much,i mod the turbo button whole wider(compression redused) and the performance better.
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Old 10-23-2012, 07:56 AM   #4465
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What's the best way to break in a keep on .21? Thanks.
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Old 10-23-2012, 08:01 AM   #4466
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What's the best way to break in a keep on .21? Thanks.
http://murnanmodified.com/breakin.php
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Old 10-23-2012, 04:20 PM   #4467
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Step 2, when you say establish a rich idle, do you mean start it at factory settings or lean it on the top or bottom a little?

Step 3, is that continuous 750cc of fuel or heat cycle every tank until 750cc has been run?

Step 4, same question as step three, heat cycle every tank or continuous for 750cc?

Thanks for all your help. You're deffinately an asset to this hobby.
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Old 10-24-2012, 09:42 AM   #4468
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Step 2, when you say establish a rich idle, do you mean start it at factory settings or lean it on the top or bottom a little?

Step 3, is that continuous 750cc of fuel or heat cycle every tank until 750cc has been run?

Step 4, same question as step three, heat cycle every tank or continuous for 750cc?

Thanks for all your help. You're deffinately an asset to this hobby.
Rich idle usually means factory settings. Just make the idle where it will not shut off, and some raw fuel is coming out of the exhaust.

No need to heat cycle each tank. In between each 750cc is fine.
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Old 10-24-2012, 11:52 AM   #4469
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Rich idle usually means factory settings. Just make the idle where it will not shut off, and some raw fuel is coming out of the exhaust.

No need to heat cycle each tank. In between each 750cc is fine.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JT2GQr9UEoM

How's this look? Nothing special, just starting the break in process. Idled through 150cc tank today. Next step tomorrow. So for the next step, should i just leave the needle settings as they are from factory and run it for another 750cc or should i lean it a little? Thanks for the help.
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Old 10-25-2012, 12:28 PM   #4470
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JT2GQr9UEoM

How's this look? Nothing special, just starting the break in process. Idled through 150cc tank today. Next step tomorrow. So for the next step, should i just leave the needle settings as they are from factory and run it for another 750cc or should i lean it a little? Thanks for the help.
Ok. I'm 600cc into step 3 and have one more tank before I move to the next step.

Question, step 4, should I go ahead and reduce Idle gap to .5mm and tune the low end slight rich so I don't get that pinging sound at the end of a run when I let off? If I don't it will race after a pull through the rpm range because of the big idle gap and rich bottom. I already richened the hsn to get plenty of smoke and lubrication. Thanks.
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