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Old 07-18-2011, 08:08 AM   #4111
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Originally Posted by ralphierace13 View Post
Does the special coating on the new pts slow down or even stop the amount of carbon that should build on the piston?
From what I've seen it doesn't change the amount carbon buildup. We are getting the same amount as before.
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Old 07-18-2011, 08:12 AM   #4112
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Thanks for the info!

Does your team have any experience with using the C7TGH with Flash21? If so, what are the drawbacks? Will they run equally well in our climate?

Appreciate!!
We use the C8TGH because it's more durable than the C7TGH. Also, we can run a little less head clearance with the #8 because it's a slightly colder plug. Overall, it's the plug we use the most and like the best. The only time we use the #7 plugs is for break-in.
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Old 07-18-2011, 08:14 AM   #4113
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I heard 2015 is not a good match. What are the best pipe and manifold combos for the .21 PT.
Who ever told you that is mistaken. 2015 works great on the PT/PTS.
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Old 07-18-2011, 08:21 AM   #4114
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Originally Posted by ralphierace13 View Post
Does the special coating on the new pts slow down or even stop the amount of carbon that should build on the piston?
Ralph,

Both my Pts engines came pre run and had heavy buildup of carbon out of the box. Novarossi runs in engines with a very high % of caster oil during breakin/run in

If you look in the instructions that come with motor they give you a recommended blend for fuel for break in and regular running. You will notice that they do recommend a reasonable amount of caster in the blend.

Alot of fuel is now coming with a high percentage of synthetic oil in it. The burn/carbon point is much higher. If you use a fuel that is mostly synthetic you will not see any or very little carbon build up until you are well into the 290 engine temp range.

Some of the fuel will actually strip carbon layer off piston on a pre run engine.

After running an engine at the worlds during controlled practice with handout fuel the piston was just about stripped clean of any carbon from the factory.

Unfortunetly I am a bit undecided if this all even matters. Nice to have the carbon I think as if you go a little lean the motor will tolerate it a bit longer before you scratch piston...to a point.

I have also messed around with pure caster mix and you have to go to a lower percentage of oil overall as you start to get ALOT of carbon buildup otherwise you actually see crud build up on edges of exhaust ports.

I also noticed that I have higher rate of bearing wear and failure with fuel heavy synthetic blend.

Not sure this helps but that was my findings. Best solution add a bit of caster to your fuel to make it around 9-10% oil mix or switch brands of fuel.
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Old 07-25-2011, 07:41 PM   #4115
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Angry Nova rossi p5

Need help with p5. Engine runs great and then flames out for no reason I can find. Check fuel lines, mixture, checked for air leaks and it is driving me crazy. Motor has 2 gal of fuel after break in. I was told to change the bearings. Can anyone please help me. Thanks
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Old 07-25-2011, 07:42 PM   #4116
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anyone know what the difference proformance wise between the kangaroo 21sydwc and the s21wcs09
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Old 07-25-2011, 08:30 PM   #4117
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Originally Posted by J.Gonzalez View Post
Ralph,

Both my Pts engines came pre run and had heavy buildup of carbon out of the box. Novarossi runs in engines with a very high % of caster oil during breakin/run in

If you look in the instructions that come with motor they give you a recommended blend for fuel for break in and regular running. You will notice that they do recommend a reasonable amount of caster in the blend.

Alot of fuel is now coming with a high percentage of synthetic oil in it. The burn/carbon point is much higher. If you use a fuel that is mostly synthetic you will not see any or very little carbon build up until you are well into the 290 engine temp range.

Some of the fuel will actually strip carbon layer off piston on a pre run engine.

After running an engine at the worlds during controlled practice with handout fuel the piston was just about stripped clean of any carbon from the factory.

Unfortunetly I am a bit undecided if this all even matters. Nice to have the carbon I think as if you go a little lean the motor will tolerate it a bit longer before you scratch piston...to a point.

I have also messed around with pure caster mix and you have to go to a lower percentage of oil overall as you start to get ALOT of carbon buildup otherwise you actually see crud build up on edges of exhaust ports.

I also noticed that I have higher rate of bearing wear and failure with fuel heavy synthetic blend.

Not sure this helps but that was my findings. Best solution add a bit of caster to your fuel to make it around 9-10% oil mix or switch brands of fuel.
i dont usually get pre run version of engine... why would you.. you would want total control of what you get...
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Old 07-26-2011, 07:33 PM   #4118
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Anyone have LL3/11, My LSN setting is 1 1/4 turn, it's too lean, HSN is 3 3/4 turn. The base setting for LSN is 2 1/2 right ?
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Old 08-06-2011, 04:58 PM   #4119
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Questions??

Is there a trick I'm not aware of to getting the needles back into the carburetor, the low-end needle especially, without damaging the o-rings? I don't know if it's due to their age because the engine's quite old (RX21R1WC), but it seems like I'm tearing them slightly the last couple of times I've taken the carb apart, even after soaking them in very light oil or coating them with green slime.
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Old 08-07-2011, 12:20 AM   #4120
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I grabbed a Nova Conrod for my Capricorn E01 part# 7604 and it's an N2 not an N1, What's the difference between an N1 and N2 conrod?

Sorry.. found it,

Seems google indexes RCtech better than RCtech..

Seems N1 is the replacement (post run in) for the N2.
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Last edited by blis; 08-07-2011 at 02:09 AM.
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Old 08-07-2011, 03:46 AM   #4121
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Originally Posted by blis View Post
I grabbed a Nova Conrod for my Capricorn E01 part# 7604 and it's an N2 not an N1, What's the difference between an N1 and N2 conrod?

Sorry.. found it,

Seems google indexes RCtech better than RCtech..

Seems N1 is the replacement (post run in) for the N2.
I've noticed that in the past with Nova engines. I've had conrods with different markings (N1 and N2) to the new one coming out of an engine, both with the same dimensions. That explains it, many thanks for that information Harry.

Kindest regards,
Lars.
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Old 08-11-2011, 12:07 PM   #4122
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You guys know what engine button from novarossi will fit in my max xxl3 .12?
anyone?
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Old 08-20-2011, 10:10 AM   #4123
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anyone knows the factory setting for the mixture control valve in a .21 flash special?
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Old 08-23-2011, 10:12 PM   #4124
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Default Novarossi R7 Rod 4 sale

Have a New in package Nova R7 rod for sale good price

New Novarossi R7 Rod
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Old 08-24-2011, 02:03 AM   #4125
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could anyone tell me what the difference is between the:
Nova Flash .12 3 Tuned
and the
353 race .12/C Tuned?

the engines listed here: http://www.novarossi.it/eng/products.../nova/on-road/

i'm trying to figure out what the difference is but i can't see it in the spec sheets, can someone highlight it for me? i noticed the .12 3 Tuned has a slightly lower peak revs and power band, is this for any specific reason? (ie is it a long stroke?)

so what's the difference? i noticed here http://www.nbhc.com.au/categories/En...sort=pricedesc

that the 3Tuned is approx $89 more...so what do i get for the $89 with the 3 Tuned? does it have more torque??
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