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Old 05-13-2011, 08:58 PM   #4066
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check it out with our site if you need any Novarossi engines
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Old 05-13-2011, 10:45 PM   #4067
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can anyone tell what sort of warranty if the machine is bought from offcial distributor(dealer) and non official dealer?

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Old 05-15-2011, 03:27 AM   #4068
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hi guys looking for a new .12 novarossi
currently im running the flash 12 tuned and was looking at the new pts engine. what are peoples views on this engine compared to the flash?
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Old 05-15-2011, 01:46 PM   #4069
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Originally Posted by choisan View Post
can anyone tell what sort of warranty if the machine is bought from offcial distributor(dealer) and non official dealer?
That's very very interesting question! I would like to hear from someone who is authorised to state what the policy is to this regard.

I had always thought that warranties didn't mean anything; unless your authorised dealer knew who you were, how experienced that you are and then supported the claim. In defence of the dealer/manufacturer, it should be acknowledged that it would be hard to establish if an engine has or hasn't been allowed to over-rev. But all that is only an assumption, and I have never known anyone to claim yet.

Kindest regards,
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Old 05-16-2011, 08:20 AM   #4070
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Default .21 onroad engine tune

Checked out the tuning bible and follow the tuning procedure.
Basically, the bible works fine, but I think the article pin point to buggy engine.
My onroad engine can run pretty after the tune, but there always a lean bog out from corner.

My question is,
- How u guys tune the .21 engine? Lean HSN and slightly rich LSN?
- Regarding lean bog out from corner, do i richen up the HSN or rich up the LSN? Richen up the HSN gave me headache on acceleration.
- How is the proper LSN tune for on road engine?
My engine is F.21 PT
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Old 05-16-2011, 12:47 PM   #4071
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Originally Posted by mrgsr View Post
hi guys looking for a new .12 novarossi
currently im running the flash 12 tuned and was looking at the new pts engine. what are peoples views on this engine compared to the flash?
there both great motors.... 2010 flash is real fast and the 2011 pts is a beast aswell... 2011 lower center of gravity
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Old 05-22-2011, 10:52 PM   #4072
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Nova PTS engines take the Touring and 8th scale TQ & win at the Kosmic GP in Chaplin, CT
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Old 05-23-2011, 12:42 AM   #4073
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need a new P5 / JP B5t combustion chamber
is # 28011 ok ??
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Old 05-23-2011, 11:14 AM   #4074
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beebone View Post
Checked out the tuning bible and follow the tuning procedure.
Basically, the bible works fine, but I think the article pin point to buggy engine.
My onroad engine can run pretty after the tune, but there always a lean bog out from corner.

My question is,
- How u guys tune the .21 engine? Lean HSN and slightly rich LSN?
- Regarding lean bog out from corner, do i richen up the HSN or rich up the LSN? Richen up the HSN gave me headache on acceleration.
- How is the proper LSN tune for on road engine?
My engine is F.21 PT
Since the really no-one seems to want to answer this question, I explain what I have learnt in my limited experience with on-road engines.

Make sure that the engine is hot (working temperature), then let it idle at as low speed as possible without stalling. Then gradually lean the bottom out until the idling revs increase a little. Adjust the idling again to as low idling as possible, and give it a bit of throttle to clear the crankcase of fuel, then give the engine full throttle suddenly. The engine should not stall or four stroke at all if the bottom end is right, It could be too lean or too rich if it stalls and just let it idle to test that; It’s loading up the crankcase with a too rich setting if it slows down and stalls before about 10 - 20 seconds during idling, and the engine is too lean if the revs start increasing before stalling. It’s also too rich if it four strokes when given full throttle after idling for a while. The engine should be able idle steady for at least 10 seconds (and probably more) without any change in idling speed, and then be be able to handle a handle a sudden full throttle without four stroking or dying if the bottom is right.

After all that do the top end again, and this would probably be too rich or the glow plug too cold if the engine stalls on the track. Keep checking that it’s not getting too hot, and check bottom end again you’re when happy with top end. Also do the pinch test, and the engine should stall between 3 to 5 seconds when pinching the fuel line close to the carby inlet. The bottom is usually too rich if it runs longer that, and too lean if it stalls straight away. The idling should also not change when tilting the car forwards or backwards. There is probably some other problem like air leaks, dirty jets in carby or crook bearings if that doesn’t work. Very highly modified engines can be very hard to get right sometimes, and very minimal adjustments might be needed. You can check for air leaks by plugging air intake and exhaust hole with plasticine and fingers; or any thing that works, and blow into the fuel line with the engine submerged in a bucket of water.

It is important to realise that the fuel goes through the crankcase first in two-stroke engines, and that the crank will load up with fuel if the bottom is rich. It will cause slow acceleration with lots of smoke or stalling when powering on out of corners. Engine running on when backing off could be caused by this, but can also be caused by too lean settings (bottom or top) and a too hot engine.

However; the first thing to do whit engines that won't idle is to change the glow plug, do that first, at least 50% of problems with idling are caused by glow plugs that aren't right. Don't worry about whether or not it looks O.K. just change it!

I’m still learning, and anyone that know better or disagree; please don’t shoot me, I’m willing to listen and learn. There is a very informative article on engine tuning with writing from Ron Paris at http://www.wynnumrc.com/ . Click on “Technical Information” and you’ll find it. I recommend that reading to anyone with tuning questions.

Kindest regards,
Lars.
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Last edited by Chickentrader; 05-23-2011 at 12:54 PM.
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Old 05-23-2011, 10:49 PM   #4075
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chickentrader View Post
Since the really no-one seems to want to answer this question, I explain what I have learnt in my limited experience with on-road engines.

Make sure that the engine is hot (working temperature), then let it idle at as low speed as possible without stalling. Then gradually lean the bottom out until the idling revs increase a little. Adjust the idling again to as low idling as possible, and give it a bit of throttle to clear the crankcase of fuel, then give the engine full throttle suddenly. The engine should not stall or four stroke at all if the bottom end is right, It could be too lean or too rich if it stalls and just let it idle to test that; It’s loading up the crankcase with a too rich setting if it slows down and stalls before about 10 - 20 seconds during idling, and the engine is too lean if the revs start increasing before stalling. It’s also too rich if it four strokes when given full throttle after idling for a while. The engine should be able idle steady for at least 10 seconds (and probably more) without any change in idling speed, and then be be able to handle a handle a sudden full throttle without four stroking or dying if the bottom is right.

After all that do the top end again, and this would probably be too rich or the glow plug too cold if the engine stalls on the track. Keep checking that it’s not getting too hot, and check bottom end again you’re when happy with top end. Also do the pinch test, and the engine should stall between 3 to 5 seconds when pinching the fuel line close to the carby inlet. The bottom is usually too rich if it runs longer that, and too lean if it stalls straight away. The idling should also not change when tilting the car forwards or backwards. There is probably some other problem like air leaks, dirty jets in carby or crook bearings if that doesn’t work. Very highly modified engines can be very hard to get right sometimes, and very minimal adjustments might be needed. You can check for air leaks by plugging air intake and exhaust hole with plasticine and fingers; or any thing that works, and blow into the fuel line with the engine submerged in a bucket of water.

It is important to realise that the fuel goes through the crankcase first in two-stroke engines, and that the crank will load up with fuel if the bottom is rich. It will cause slow acceleration with lots of smoke or stalling when powering on out of corners. Engine running on when backing off could be caused by this, but can also be caused by too lean settings (bottom or top) and a too hot engine.

However; the first thing to do whit engines that won't idle is to change the glow plug, do that first, at least 50% of problems with idling are caused by glow plugs that aren't right. Don't worry about whether or not it looks O.K. just change it!

I’m still learning, and anyone that know better or disagree; please don’t shoot me, I’m willing to listen and learn. There is a very informative article on engine tuning with writing from Ron Paris at http://www.wynnumrc.com/ . Click on “Technical Information” and you’ll find it. I recommend that reading to anyone with tuning questions.

Kindest regards,
Lars.
Thx! BTW, how does four strokes similar to?
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Old 05-24-2011, 12:13 AM   #4076
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beebone View Post
Thx! BTW, how does four strokes similar to?
You can clearly hear it not firing on every firing stroke when it's four stroking. Test the sound of it by richening the LSN; and then rev it by giving it some throttle, and you'll know what I mean. Also; I forgot to mention that high idling makes the engine run on, and the idling speed must be set as low as possible, when the engine is in tune.

Kindest regards,
Lars.
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Old 05-24-2011, 02:19 AM   #4077
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attempting to change the rod on my PT.

cant get the sleeve out.

usually a few taps with a piece of wood gets the sleeve out on my other engines

any suggestions please?
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Old 05-24-2011, 04:11 AM   #4078
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attempting to change the rod on my PT.

cant get the sleeve out.

usually a few taps with a piece of wood gets the sleeve out on my other engines

any suggestions please?
Have you tried using the plastic zip-tie method?
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Old 05-24-2011, 05:20 AM   #4079
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DJ_Shakespear View Post
Have you tried using the plastic zip-tie method?
"99% of the time, it works ALL the time"


had to use a combination of the zip-tie method and the "heat it up" method to get the sleeve out.

thanks
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Old 05-24-2011, 06:32 AM   #4080
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Can some one give a comparison of the new PT.12, against the old Flash engine? In terms of power and how the engine works..

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