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Old 06-22-2010, 07:50 PM   #3691
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Quick question about the rod in the Flash 12. I ordered the 7604 because its about time to replace it. I open the Flash up and it says N2 at the bottom. the one I ordered has an N1. What is the diffrence? Its the correct part #. I know my 353/09 had the N1. Just a diffrent production year?

Thanks guys!
My distributor was talking to me about this. He ordered the 7604 and they all came with N1 at the bottom, but as you say, the engine comes with the N2.

What I might think is, that the N1 and the N2 have different tolerances, since the N1 is a replacement rod, and probably it will take into account the wear on the crankshaft pin (I am, of course, inferring this.).
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Old 06-22-2010, 11:28 PM   #3692
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I had one that looked like that.

I had a ball in a tko engine bearing shatter.

Was it a novarossi bearing or aftermarket brand?

I learned my lesson as second replacement tko bearing failed. Back to Novarossi bearings for me!
This was one of the 1st Novarossi ceramic bearings, 9 balls, 3 steel and 6 ceramic.. I should have known the balls from then can split in 2 halfs.....
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Old 06-23-2010, 11:47 AM   #3693
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My distributor was talking to me about this. He ordered the 7604 and they all came with N1 at the bottom, but as you say, the engine comes with the N2.

What I might think is, that the N1 and the N2 have different tolerances, since the N1 is a replacement rod, and probably it will take into account the wear on the crankshaft pin (I am, of course, inferring this.).
Actually just replaced my rod about about 1.5gallons).... put it in the caliper, the N2 was 1/1000th wider on the crankshaft pin hole. So, you may be correct. We also noticed that the N1 is a little wider around the pin holes (from front to back), but not much.
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Old 06-24-2010, 06:05 AM   #3694
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What is the better or faster engine to buy? The 09 collari 35+21 or the new flash .21? Why do more people buy the 35+21 over the flash is it because of performance or just the cost of the flash?
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Old 06-24-2010, 07:09 AM   #3695
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The price I think.....
But the Flash is made for more RPM and the 35-plus-21 has more torque, for sure those drivers who do not want to use RPM's need the torque and beside that, the more toque and so lower RPM's does give a longer life.
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Old 06-25-2010, 09:23 AM   #3696
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hi guys, im sure your aware of the problem novarossi had with there plugs last year and before a lil...anyhow does anyone know how to tell the difference with the newer<FIXED> plugs, i am inquiring about the C6TGC plug..i think the old ones had black bodies?not sure of which ones are good to go, the color combo..i have gold nipples,silver bodies, gold paper packaging...hoping they got there stuff back togther, at $11.00 a plug...thanks...OK SO SILVER BODY OR BLACK FOR THE PROPER NEWER FIXED PLUGS IS THE QUESTION!!
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Old 06-25-2010, 10:13 AM   #3697
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i have gold nipples
Man, the ladies must love you,

I'll stick with Sirio and OD plugs for the moment.
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Old 06-25-2010, 11:07 AM   #3698
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lol..
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Old 06-25-2010, 11:39 AM   #3699
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This was one of the 1st Novarossi ceramic bearings, 9 balls, 3 steel and 6 ceramic.. I should have known the balls from then can split in 2 halfs.....
I'm not quite as sold on ceramic bearings with all ceramic balls. I would rather see a bearing with a combination of steel and ceramic balls. With ceramic balls they may have a tendency due to there light weight to "skid" on the ball races instead of rotate. This might be due to lot's of fuel and oil in the races. The skidding effect at high rpm's could generate a lot of heat, and the friction could compromise the ball by the wear on the ball races. It's usually the ball races that become over heated and damaged first. That resulting damage with tight tolerances can cause the ball fracture. The steel balls would have a tendency to roll more on the races and help reduce the skidding effect for the ceramic balls by reducing lubricant in the races. I don't know... just my thoughts.
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Old 06-25-2010, 08:06 PM   #3700
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I'm not quite as sold on ceramic bearings with all ceramic balls. I would rather see a bearing with a combination of steel and ceramic balls. With ceramic balls they may have a tendency due to there light weight to "skid" on the ball races instead of rotate. This might be due to lot's of fuel and oil in the races. The skidding effect at high rpm's could generate a lot of heat, and the friction could compromise the ball by the wear on the ball races. It's usually the ball races that become over heated and damaged first. That resulting damage with tight tolerances can cause the ball fracture. The steel balls would have a tendency to roll more on the races and help reduce the skidding effect for the ceramic balls by reducing lubricant in the races. I don't know... just my thoughts.
I think you may have that backwards... the balls would skid if there was less friction in skidding vs rotating (lower weight would certainly reduce the overall friction)... But, if the balls are skidding due to weighing less and producing less friction, then that would mean there would be less heat. Less friction, of course, also leads to less loss of power produced by the motor.

At least, that's MY theory.
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Old 07-03-2010, 04:17 PM   #3701
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which pipes are good for the novarossi plus 12 i have the 2652 but the thing is a gas hog what other pipes work well with this motor thx
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Old 07-03-2010, 07:41 PM   #3702
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i use the 2602 on my 3sct and 3ct they scream and i get great fuel millage out of them

Mitch
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Old 07-03-2010, 09:45 PM   #3703
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which pipes are good for the novarossi plus 12 i have the 2652 but the thing is a gas hog what other pipes work well with this motor thx
i always seem to go back to the Nova 2601 pipe. good on fuel , and with the right header, and gearing, doesnt lack in power either. just have a few manifolds to try, short med, and long.
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Old 07-04-2010, 02:18 AM   #3704
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Default Flash 12 backplate

Hi guys, i got 2 Flash 12's here, i pulled one down, looked over it all, and reassembled and started to run it in . im about 6 tanks in, and i removed the engine, and pulled it down again, to inspect and clean it, and after run it.
on a closer inspection, i was looking closley at the back plate. the cut out for the piston, almost looked like it was chipped, close to the start of the arc of the plate, looking from behind, on the right hand side. i cleaned it all up and got the magnifying glass out, and it looks like it is a casting fault. its not cracked or chipped, just a flaw in the cast. ill try to take a pic of it later, but i went on and opened the second engine, not seen fuel, and it has exactly the same fault with the cast. just wondering if anyone else has seen the problem with the back plate.

i was freaked out, as i never open the back plate with out knowing where the piston is, so i never did get it caught, so i thaught at first it was chipped, so i went looking for a disaster inside after the 6 tanks. luckily , no such problem.

Cheers.
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Old 07-04-2010, 04:54 PM   #3705
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Unhappy Piston blown, worthwhile keeping and fixing?

I am new to Nitro modelling and obtained a 1/8th scale car from a friend.

I have had some issues with the old model and patched and fixed it up to a good working condition with a few replacement parts. Unfortunately the radio equipment was not the newest and have had to replace one of the servos simply due to the state of the wires causing interferance.

To cut a long story short, I had it out on the road today for a test run and had it running very nicely... that was until the crystal decided to jump out of the receiver and the car went careering towards a small embankment where it flipped on its side which threw the throttle into full and sent it into a wall. By the time I got to it the engine blew the piston into a 100 peices.

The engine is obviously a NovaRossi but the actual type and product code I don't know. It has NOVA up one side and 2000 up the other of the engine casing and also has 3.5, which I am presuming is the CC but other than that I have no idea.

I would post images but too new but I hope you can help and if you can advise on the what engine this is and the best course of action to fix and whether this is salvagable and is it worthwhile fixing and finally, where to go for the parts.

Thanks all!

Last edited by pferguson2212; 07-05-2010 at 03:40 AM. Reason: Additional info...
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