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Old 02-24-2010, 12:10 AM   #3466
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Woher bist Du denn? Sportkreis Süd?
Ich bin näher als du denkst
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Old 02-24-2010, 12:25 AM   #3467
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Ich bin näher als du denkst
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Old 02-24-2010, 02:46 AM   #3468
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must be your Neighbour Stefan
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Old 02-24-2010, 05:04 AM   #3469
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Well basically I follow the same procedure with every engine and never had problems what so ever.
Break in, and the first race with the conrod the engine came with.
Mostly the engine is fully broken in after it's first race, at least in my case since I don't practice a lot.
After the first race I replace the conrod, and do a really good check up, clean up of the engine. With pretty much every engine I owned it wasn't needed to change the conrod a second time, because they were worn out before that point. My engines last around 10 liters after break in.

The bearings are really unpredictable, sometimes they become bad during break in already and sometimes they last 2 races.
When they start to feel different as when they were new, change them.
Don't wait until you see the (steel) balls become dull, then you have waited to long, and mostly you could see damage to the outside of your crank, it becomes hard to take it out.

When you change the bearings, put the crankcase in an oven, most of the time 45 min on 140C, then put the new ones in by using your crank to guide them in, and align them. I always immediately screw the flywheel on and rotate it. Since I have been doing it like this I feel the bearings last a little longer and the crank can spin more easily.
I wouldn't suggest using the cold-puller method, as this puts a lot of force on the components, and it's harder to properly align your bearings this way.
i need to replace the front bearing in my 353 '09 and was told by a few people the oven method is no good as it heats the block up too much, what is the maximum temperature you believe the block can withstand before damage is done with the oven? also how do you remove the bearing once you have heated the block, should it fall straight out or with a light force?
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Old 02-24-2010, 05:43 AM   #3470
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At 140 C the bearing will fall out if you tap the crankcase lightly on a piece of wood.
You shouldn't use a hammer or any brute force, just some small taps.
If it doesn't come out, put it back in the oven.
140 C is no problem what so ever for an aluminum casting piece, my engines come of the track at that temperature after a main final if it's a hot day.
At 200 C plus you might risk to deform the crankcase, but again, only if you use brute force.
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Old 02-24-2010, 05:43 AM   #3471
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You can use a tool to push out the bearing when the crankcase is hot but no real force is needed.

Regarding heating up a crankcase... Yes, there is a point but before the special tools it was the only way and these days still a lot of people are doing it without problems.
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Old 02-24-2010, 05:51 AM   #3472
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I've always baked my engines next to my potatoes to change the bearings, very easy method just don't leave it in there for an hour lol well done is no good.
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Old 02-24-2010, 05:59 AM   #3473
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Novarossi changes motor to often what is next the flash limited edition? Both flash engines make the same power. Out of the box the jp r9 has more top end then the flash motors. When novarossi makes something that is light years faster then I will buy a flash tuned. My Jp ro3 Is just as fast as the flash if not faster in certain areas and that motor had been out for 5 1/2 years. Vincents Jp ro3 clocked a higher top speed than all the flash motors that were at the capital classic last year he just had bad luck.
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Old 02-25-2010, 05:48 PM   #3474
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Novarossi changes motor to often what is next the flash limited edition? Both flash engines make the same power. Out of the box the jp r9 has more top end then the flash motors. When novarossi makes something that is light years faster then I will buy a flash tuned. My Jp ro3 Is just as fast as the flash if not faster in certain areas and that motor had been out for 5 1/2 years. Vincents Jp ro3 clocked a higher top speed than all the flash motors that were at the capital classic last year he just had bad luck.
Actually a drag modified 35 plus 21 nova will destroy the new flash lol, but of course that is not stock.
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Old 02-25-2010, 05:55 PM   #3475
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Actually a drag modified 35 plus 21 nova will destroy the new flash lol, but of course that is not stock.
+1 I have seen some of those and they are stupid fast if only we could fine a way to make runtime
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Old 02-25-2010, 08:54 PM   #3476
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Originally Posted by HoboShop View Post
Novarossi changes motor to often what is next the flash limited edition? Both flash engines make the same power. Out of the box the jp r9 has more top end then the flash motors. When novarossi makes something that is light years faster then I will buy a flash tuned. My Jp ro3 Is just as fast as the flash if not faster in certain areas and that motor had been out for 5 1/2 years. Vincents Jp ro3 clocked a higher top speed than all the flash motors that were at the capital classic last year he just had bad luck.

Hey whats up! yes the R03 is a beast of an engine i have one too! was wondering if you know where i can get a hold of a sleeve and piston set for that thing. I hear the 321p P/S set was a pretty good match but can seem to find anything for it. Let me know if you know of any alternatives for that engine. thx in advance
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Old 02-25-2010, 09:21 PM   #3477
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Hey whats up! yes the R03 is a beast of an engine i have one too! was wondering if you know where i can get a hold of a sleeve and piston set for that thing. I hear the 321p P/S set was a pretty good match but can seem to find anything for it. Let me know if you know of any alternatives for that engine. thx in advance
The jp ro3 can take a piston&sleeve from the novarossi kangaroo, jp r9s, 35+21, max xl9 tq. Run the 9 port piston&sleeve in the ro3 and it will have more bottom end than the r9s jp and close to the same top end but much better runtime. Try to stay with a 35+21, jp r9s, or novarossi r1 kangaroo 2009-2010 etc for piston&sleeve and let it rip. The jp ro3 can and will stand the test of time just like the jp to3-t if you can find one.
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Old 02-25-2010, 10:43 PM   #3478
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The jp ro3 can take a piston&sleeve from the novarossi kangaroo, jp r9s, 35+21, max xl9 tq. Run the 9 port piston&sleeve in the ro3 and it will have more bottom end than the r9s jp and close to the same top end but much better runtime. Try to stay with a 35+21, jp r9s, or novarossi r1 kangaroo 2009-2010 etc for piston&sleeve and let it rip. The jp ro3 can and will stand the test of time just like the jp to3-t if you can find one.

Thx for the info!
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Old 02-26-2010, 04:38 AM   #3479
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Seems to be alot of jpr03 talk and I had a couple of questions that I could not get an answer.

I am wondering if a 35plus21 p/s set with work with case and crank from r1 series engine? Anyone actually try this? Seems that best I can figure the maxpower engines share this format of 14mm crank r1 series and 9 port p/s set.

When I reviewed the part number for stock r03 and r01. They share the exact same crank as the novarossi 321p and r1 kangaroo engine.

The sleeve on the stock ro3 and ro1 are also similar part number.

So long and short of it is the r03 is modded 321p and r01 is a modded r1 best I can figure. Is this correct?

However when I look at r9/r7 I can not find similar nova crank or p/s set. Is it based of 35 plus?

I enjoyed the way r1 kangaroo runs at my local track for fuel economy but seems to be a little down on power to 35plus Cordoba. I am wondering if a hybrid motor of r1 case,crank and 35plus will fit the bill?

Thanks
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Old 02-26-2010, 06:50 AM   #3480
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The 35+21 and the r1 kangaroo both have the same bore&stroke and also use the same conrod&piston so it should work.
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