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Old 05-14-2004, 08:16 AM   #331
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I have a non turbo head so I was planning to use non turbo plugs only.
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Old 05-14-2004, 09:19 AM   #332
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Quote:
Originally posted by Number 11
I have a non turbo head so I was planning to use non turbo plugs only.
Good, keep us posted on how your Murnan X12 goes. I'm planning on getting one so your comments will be appreciated.
AFM
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Old 05-14-2004, 09:24 AM   #333
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Where can I find a piston/sleeve for an RS12T or NS12T.
My engine is most likely an RS, but i am not sure.
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Old 05-14-2004, 09:48 AM   #334
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Default nova parts

www.fusionmotorsports.com

909-361-3579
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Old 05-14-2004, 09:55 AM   #335
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Default Re: nova parts

Quote:
Originally posted by ROARprez
www.fusionmotorsports.com

909-361-3579
Thanks
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Old 05-14-2004, 10:15 AM   #336
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Quote:
Originally posted by afm
Good, keep us posted on how your Murnan X12 goes. I'm planning on getting one so your comments will be appreciated.
AFM
I will be sure to do that.
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Old 05-14-2004, 02:32 PM   #337
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Default whats the diff

whats the diff in these novas

rs 12 t5

rs 12 t5 race

rs 12 s5 race

ns 12 s5

please help?
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Old 05-19-2004, 08:29 AM   #338
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Default Top TT15 repairs

I have a Top TT15. I bought used recently, and after 3 years of racing it blew out the rear ball bearing. A ball was rattling around in there, and stopped the conrod from moving in the case. There was some minor damage to the case.

I was thinking of doing this repairs myself. I'll have to dremel out the damage from the ball, and replace the bearing. While I'm at it I've decided to replace piston, conrod, and sleeve. Do I need any special tools to remove/install the bearing? Should I also replace the outside bearing? Is there anything else I should be doing?


Thanks,
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Old 05-19-2004, 09:42 AM   #339
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Default Re: Top TT15 repairs

Quote:
Originally posted by tomkelley
I have a Top TT15. I bought used recently, and after 3 years of racing it blew out the rear ball bearing. A ball was rattling around in there, and stopped the conrod from moving in the case. There was some minor damage to the case.

I was thinking of doing this repairs myself. I'll have to dremel out the damage from the ball, and replace the bearing. While I'm at it I've decided to replace piston, conrod, and sleeve. Do I need any special tools to remove/install the bearing? Should I also replace the outside bearing? Is there anything else I should be doing?


Thanks,
TK
I would suggest you change the front bearing too, and the crank (3 years), but after you add up all those parts, I think you are better off buying a new engine.
Now if you still want to repair it, following is the procedure for changing bearings I got from RB some time ago, forgot the link. so I'm reproducing it from my files.
Hope it helps.
AFM

Before you disassemble your engine be sure to clean your engine very well so no dirt can go inside your engine and be sure to follow the instructions below.
1.Work on a clean spot !
2.Use adapted tools!
Proceed as follows:
·Clean the entire engine on the outside, the less dirt you have around the better it is for the engine.
·Take off the carburetor.
·Unscrew the glowplug.
·Unscrew the 4 head-screws(do this crosswise!).
·Take off the cooling-head and the combustion chamber, be careful with the head-shims(the one's between the combustion chamber and cylinder), don't loose them.
·Unscrew the 4 backplate screws(do this crosswise!).
·Take off the backplate, be careful that when you want to take off the back-plate to have the piston in the upper position, otherwise you can damage your piston.
·Take out the cylinder.
·Take out the piston/conrod(when you do this the position of the crankshaft must be that the piston is at its highest position).
Take out the crankshaft.
Heat up the crankcase on an electric cooking plate(position 6 should do).Wait until the oil which is inside the engine starts to smoke a little(after 3-4 minutes).
Take the crankcase of the cooking plate with a heat protective glove and hit firmly the back of the crankcase on a wooden plate until the main-bearing comes loose.Be careful not to burn your fingers and if the bearing does not come loose put back the crankcase on the electric plate and wait a little more so the crankcase heats up more.
The bearing has come out here.Please note that the bearing sometimes comes out of its place but is a little stuck after, this happens, just align the bearing so it falls out after.
Immediately after(while the crankcase is still at the right temperature) you must also take out the front-bearing.This can be done by introducing a round axle for which the diameter is smaller then the inside size of the main-bearing you just got out of the engine.Hit the front-bearing gently so it comes out, be careful not to damage the inside of the crankcase!
The front-bearing has come out here.
Now you can let everything cool down or immediately mount the new bearings, for this we suggest that you put the crankcase on the electric plate again and do the following after.
Mount the new main-bearing on the crankshaft with the balls closest to the crank-flange.
Mount the front-bearing with the rubber(or metal) flange directed to the thicker part of the crankshaft, this because we need to insert the front-bearing in the crankcase.
Get the crankcase(carefull hot...) and slide in the front-bearing in the crankcase with the help of the crankshaft.Wait some seconds and pull-out the crankshaft, the bearing should stay in place.Put the front-bearing in place quickly otherwise the bearing will take the temperature and get stuck.If this happens, don't panic, you should be able to put the front-bearing in place after you have pulled out the crankshaft and pushing the bearing in place with the wood you have used the get the main-bearing out.
Pull-out the crankshaft a few seconds after you have put the front-bearing in place.
Then immediately after insert the crankshaft in the rear of the crankcase and let the crankshaft and bearing fall in place, turn the crankshaft to see if it turns free and let the whole thing cool down.Once again be careful not to burn yourself with this.
When everything has cooled down, check if the crankshaft turns free.
·Mount the piston/conrod in the engine by placing the conrod over the pin of the crankshaft(when you do this the position of the crankshaft must be that the piston is at its highest position).
·Mount the cylinder, first slide the cylinder about 5mm into the housing and then let put the piston in the cylinder, then put the cylinder in place(add a little oil #1400 to make this all go smooth.
·Mount the backplate, be careful that when you mount the back-plate to have the piston in the upper position, otherwise you will damage your piston.
·Mount the back-plate screws and tighten them crosswise.
·Mount the combustion-chamber and do not forget the shims!
·Mount the cooling-head and fix the cooling-head with the screws, do this crosswise.
·Tighten again the glow plug.
·Mount the carburetor.
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Old 05-19-2004, 07:46 PM   #340
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Thanks AFM!
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Old 05-22-2004, 02:12 AM   #341
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I have an Rs 12 S3.
Is thare any performance boost in putting the NRS piston and sleeve in it?

Is there any difference in the crankshaft on RS / NSR?
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Old 05-22-2004, 07:25 AM   #342
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Quote:
Originally posted by Finken
I have an Rs 12 S3.
Is thare any performance boost in putting the NRS piston and sleeve in it?

Is there any difference in the crankshaft on RS / NSR?
Well, engine will sustain better high temps, and it could have some more top RPM's. I don't know if port transfers have different timing.

NSR Crank won't fit because it is 11.5mm dia. as opposed to 11.0 mm of the RS, so Crankcases are different and so are the bearings.

AFM
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Old 05-23-2004, 11:09 PM   #343
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Default needing piston and sleave

any body know were i can purchase a piston and sleave for a sx-12 novamega, please let me know
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Old 05-24-2004, 04:29 AM   #344
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Try The border online shop. They've got novamega enginespares



http://shop.the-border.nl/customer/home.php?cat=336
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Old 05-24-2004, 04:31 AM   #345
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Does someone know what p/s combo could fit in a nova based mugen mr12 engine with turbocrankshaft.

Thanks in advance
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