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Old 01-02-2010, 10:53 AM   #3376
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The 2052 would be the next best option.
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Old 01-02-2010, 12:35 PM   #3377
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Could someone please explain the differences between the (.21) Novarossi Flash and the Flash Tuned version?

Unfortunately their website doesn't mention the Tuned version, and thus doesn't say what makes it different.

Thanks in advance.
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Old 01-02-2010, 01:04 PM   #3378
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Originally Posted by Kronos View Post
Could someone please explain the differences between the (.21) Novarossi Flash and the Flash Tuned version?

Unfortunately their website doesn't mention the Tuned version, and thus doesn't say what makes it different.

Thanks in advance.
http://www.novarossi.it/eng/news/rea...=52&brand=nova
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Old 01-02-2010, 01:10 PM   #3379
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Thanks jca2000au, I couldn't find that when I was on their site.
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Old 01-03-2010, 01:28 AM   #3380
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Good morning guyz. How the Novarossi N21-3T Turbo On/Road Competition Engine is compared with the rb classico?? does it worth for a 1st time running 1/8 scale with motonica?
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Old 01-03-2010, 08:40 AM   #3381
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Actually im between kangaroo noa and rb speedline xenon... And for buck up nova 21-3T!!
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Old 01-03-2010, 08:49 AM   #3382
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I would go with the Nova Rossi "Kangaroo" engine.
RB Speedline Xenon Alpha engine are also good.


http://kamikazercracing.com/proddeta...od=NOVS21WCS09

http://kamikazercracing.com/proddeta...=XenonAlpha.21
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Old 01-03-2010, 11:31 AM   #3383
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Which one is giving me top high middle faster ?? The track is medium with about 50 meters straight in 1 part and rest is somehow most tehnic than high speed!!
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Old 01-03-2010, 11:53 AM   #3384
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The N21-3T is a fun engine for those who are realy starting this hobby and in Europe is is a cheap disposeable engine for racing in the rain (yes, we race in the rain).
As a backup engine you can use it but for an avarage racer it is to slow and a farce if you havre to use it at a higher level racing. But if you can get a crankshaft from an older faster motor like a 321/421/RX21, NovaMega EVO4/5/6, JP R01/R03 or MAX the N21-T3 will come to life.

There are faster Basic types as the N21-T5 and the N21-T7, and if you can get an hand on it the JP P7L is a big bang for a low price.
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Old 01-16-2010, 02:16 AM   #3385
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h i know this question has probely been asked a million times i just got a 353/09 tuned engine and just ant to know the reason for the extra needle which 1 do i leave in thanks Brett
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Old 01-16-2010, 03:17 AM   #3386
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you mean the brass screw at the rear of the carb?

Actually this screw will do the same as the LSN but it will move the spraybar into the airflow, with this you can finetune the carb a little bit more. Normally you have to leave it flush.
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Old 01-16-2010, 04:23 AM   #3387
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no sorry mate i should of said a top end needle the packet has a spare one it look like a finer point
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Old 01-17-2010, 02:06 AM   #3388
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How is comparing 21-7T with S21WCS??
First time racing 1/8 and i need an engine for a season to get used of that scale ( in a budget )
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Old 01-17-2010, 10:31 PM   #3389
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I need some help. I pulled apart my 353 09 and replaced the rod(2gallons on it). when I pulled the wrist pin I didn't pay attention to which way it goes back in. Does it matter if the big hole in the pin goes forward or backwards?

Thanks for the help,
Joe
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Old 01-17-2010, 10:33 PM   #3390
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Originally Posted by Joe Maxey View Post
I need some help. I pulled apart my 353 09 and replaced the rod(2gallons on it). when I pulled the wrist pin I didn't pay attention to which way it goes back in. Does it matter if the big hole in the pin goes forward or backwards?

Thanks for the help,
Joe
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