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Old 04-26-2008, 09:30 PM   #2641
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Originally Posted by Riketsu View Post
I never heard that AS IF... Could be true, who knows.

Anyways, heres the website where i found some information on how to choose a glowplug for your situation.
http://www.outlawrc.com/glowplugs.htm
That's is very nice website information.

I solve my earlier problem ( short life of C7TF ) with C8TF.

I guess C7TF don't like 25% nitro with hot tropical climate.
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Old 04-27-2008, 12:19 AM   #2642
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Originally Posted by asw7576 View Post
If I'm not mistaken, The short type is AS IF you are using 1 more shim, thus slightly you get milder compression. The long type is normal compression.

If I'm not mistaken again, some people interpret short vs long glow plug with the retain heat capability they carry. Long body will retain heat longer thus you get hotter engine temp, and vice versa.

Sorry if I'm wrong.
Hi guys,

the long body plugs are longer OUTSIDE of the head button, the do not stick further into the combustion chamber. The longer body will dissipate heat quicker than the short body, that's why the plug is called "colder". The shorter body plugs heat up quicker that's why they are called hotter.

In addition to the different body style you have the different wire sizes. It can be very confusing
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Old 04-27-2008, 12:35 AM   #2643
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Originally Posted by stefan View Post
Hi guys,

the long body plugs are longer OUTSIDE of the head button, the do not stick further into the combustion chamber. The longer body will dissipate heat quicker than the short body, that's why the plug is called "colder". The shorter body plugs heat up quicker that's why they are called hotter.

In addition to the different body style you have the different wire sizes. It can be very confusing
btw i saw they have a hot plug with long & short body and a cold plug with long and short body mean?

for example a hot plug with longer mean body mean hot but not that hot? lolzzzz....
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Old 04-27-2008, 10:25 AM   #2644
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Hi guys,

the long body plugs are longer OUTSIDE of the head button, the do not stick further into the combustion chamber. The longer body will dissipate heat quicker than the short body, that's why the plug is called "colder". The shorter body plugs heat up quicker that's why they are called hotter.

In addition to the different body style you have the different wire sizes. It can be very confusing
I think you mixed up somewhere ....... C8TF is the coldest type, infact it is a short body glowplug. F means Freda, or Cold.

C8TC is the second coldest ( ranked before C8TF ). It is a long body glow plug. C means Calda, or Hot.

Here is the rank, from hottest to the coldest :

C5TC EXTRA HOT - long body = C
C5TF VERY HOT - short body = F
C6TC HOT
C6TF SEMI COLD
C7TC COLD
C7TF VERY COLD
C8TC VERY COLD
C8TF EXTRA COLD
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Old 04-27-2008, 04:37 PM   #2645
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Originally Posted by Dreddlox View Post
I just ordered a 12Plus 3-SCT tuned and I'm not to familiar with nova based motors and wanted to know what the difference is in the long and short plugs on an engine?
Turbo Glow Plugs where designed to give more performance to an engine, for the following reasons:

*It forms an uninterrupted combustion chamber.
*The advantage of better heat transfer or heat dissipation, and a leak proof seal, generated by the conical seat of the plug.
*Greater choice of thermal ranges, that allow for more precise tuning according to variations in weather conditions (temperature, humidity, altitude, barometric pressure, etc.).

The numbers and characters on the plugs, are the product number, wire thickness, and thermal range of the plug’s body. Example: The Novarossi C6TG (F) or (C)
*Product:C (Conical)
*Wire Thickness:6
*Plug Type: T (Turbo)
*Plated:G (Gold)
*Thermal Range:F (Fredda = Cold) C (Calda = Hot)

The plugs with cold thermal range F (Fredda), have a body with thinner walls and shorter body, so they dissipate heat better and faster to the engine head. The plugs with hot thermal range C (Calda), have a body with thicker walls and longer body, so they dissipate heat better and faster to the engine head. The number of threads is the same on both types of plugs.

How to select the proper plug:
*When the ambient temperature is high, we have to use a plug with thicker wire.
*With higher compression, we have to use a plug with thicker wire.
*Humidity determines if we use a Cold (F) thermal range, or Hot (C) thermal range.
*With high humidity percentage we should use a Hot (C) thermal range plug.
*If we have high temperature and high humidity, we should use a plug with thick wire and a Hot(C) thermal range.

The best instrument to determine which Turbo Plug to use, is those table digital weather stations, that have Temperature, Humidity, and some also Barometric Pressure on them. That is the key to success or failure tuning engines with Turbo Glow Plugs, because they are so sensitive to weather variations that is unbelievable.

AFM
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Old 04-28-2008, 03:28 AM   #2646
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Originally Posted by afm View Post

The plugs with cold thermal range F (Fredda), have a body with thinner walls and shorter body, so they dissipate heat better and faster to the engine head. The plugs with hot thermal range C (Calda), have a body with thicker walls and longer body, so they dissipate heat better and faster to the engine head. The number of threads is the same on both types of plugs.

AFM
Which one is dissipating heat better and faster now ?

Which one has less compression ?
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Old 04-28-2008, 04:29 PM   #2647
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Which one is dissipating heat better and faster now ?

Which one has less compression ?
OOPS!! mystyped,sorry, should read like this:

The plugs with cold thermal range F (Fredda), have a body with thinner walls and shorter body, so they dissipate heat better and faster to the engine head.

The plugs with hot thermal range C (Calda), have a body with thicker walls and longer body, so they dissipate heat slower to the engine head.

The number of threads is the same on both types of plugs.

Although never actually cc'd a head with each type, in theory the F type should give less compression, but difference should be ultra minimal

AFM
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Old 04-28-2008, 09:54 PM   #2648
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Sorry, I mixed it up, AFM is correct.
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Old 05-01-2008, 02:10 PM   #2649
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Hi friends,

pretty soon my N12-LL5 piston sleeve will be losing compression and thrown away.

Can I replace the piston sleeve from N12-RR5 ? or Plus12-3 ?

( my LHS don't have LL5 p/s/r. instead rc-mushroom has Plus12-3 and RR5 p/s/r in stock )

All three have the same bore x stroke, but I'm not sure with port's timing.

Thank you friends !!
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Old 05-05-2008, 05:19 PM   #2650
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I started breaking in my Plus 12-3SCT Tuned yesterday and am very happy with what I have so far and know its only going to get better. I'm currently using the 2630 pipe with 5 fin header, but I wanted to know what other options are out there to choose from?

Thanks,

Kelly
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Old 05-12-2008, 06:11 PM   #2651
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Great reading here guy's, I just wanted ask a small question.

This past weekend I blew my NovaRossi M12 in the pieces on the inside, now this engine was 10 years old so not totally bothered other then having to replace it so suddenly. I have purchased NovaRossi NS12TS1 and was just wondering if you all could give me a heads up as to what I am looking at as far as the engine goes? Will it be as good or better then my M12 was? I am running it in my Mugen MTX3 Sedan at http://www.rcpikeriver.com/default_e.html

Thanks Guys

Sean
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Old 05-12-2008, 11:44 PM   #2652
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Originally Posted by BLKNOTCH View Post
Great reading here guy's, I just wanted ask a small question.

This past weekend I blew my NovaRossi M12 in the pieces on the inside, now this engine was 10 years old so not totally bothered other then having to replace it so suddenly. I have purchased NovaRossi NS12TS1 and was just wondering if you all could give me a heads up as to what I am looking at as far as the engine goes? Will it be as good or better then my M12 was? I am running it in my Mugen MTX3 Sedan at http://www.rcpikeriver.com/default_e.html

Thanks Guys

Sean
The new engine is basically the same as your M12, with slightly different ports on the sleeve. Performance wise you can expect about the same.
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Old 05-13-2008, 03:48 AM   #2653
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Thank you, thats what I was hoping to hear. Maybe next year IU will look into the new 353 Race 12.

Sean
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Old 05-14-2008, 10:33 PM   #2654
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Hey everyone. I was wondering, this will fit my MT12 right?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...2BSI%26otn%3D4

It says that the CX12N Piston, sleeve, and conrod set will fit the MT12. But the one I bought just says CX12. Someone on this forum said it will fit (In another thread) but I just want to make sure.
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Old 05-15-2008, 09:55 PM   #2655
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Hey everyone. I was wondering, this will fit my MT12 right?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...2BSI%26otn%3D4

It says that the CX12N Piston, sleeve, and conrod set will fit the MT12. But the one I bought just says CX12. Someone on this forum said it will fit (In another thread) but I just want to make sure.
yes all you have to do is move the locating pin for the barrel.
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