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Old 08-12-2007, 04:23 AM   #2341
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Hi Alfonso,

I just checked the entry list for the 200mm Euros at your home track next week, but I didn't see yur name. What's up? Are you not racing?

Sabrina Lechner, Reto Koenig (Burito) and Dirk Stammler from our team are going to Madrid.

Do me a favor, go by and say hello from me

Take care,

Stefan

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Definitely wrong. The main difference between the 'C' and 'F' is on the height of the part that protrudes over the button (in more graphical terms: the height of the hex you use for tightening) and this is what makes their difference in heat transfer from the combustion chamber to the air.

A 'C' and 'F' plugs protrude the same on the combustion chamber, so the compression could not be different between them.

Being conical at the end of the combustion chamber, you cannot insert more the plug unless you do a gorilla tighten and break the plug button or strip the treads.
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Old 08-12-2007, 04:24 AM   #2342
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Is it possible to add metal to the crank pin and then regrind it ? Mine has gone elliptical . Failing that where can I get an 85005 crank for a PT21R01WC ? Thanks .
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Nope. Where are you?

Melbourne , Australia .
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Old 08-12-2007, 04:28 AM   #2343
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I just checked the entry list for the 200mm Euros at your home track next week, but I didn't see yur name. What's up? Are you not racing?
Lately I've been very very busy and really out of all what means 200mm.

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Sabrina Lechner, Reto Koenig (Burito) and Dirk Stammler from our team are going to Madrid.

Do me a favor, go by and say hello from me
Consider it done... I'm going to do some photos during the next week. Will post some here.
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Old 08-12-2007, 07:15 AM   #2344
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Is it possible to add metal to the crank pin and then regrind it ? Mine has gone elliptical . Failing that where can I get an 85005 crank for a PT21R01WC ? Thanks .



Melbourne , Australia .
I've spray welded a $1500 crank before on the thrust surface...... abused from the darn trans brake pounding on the thrust bearing surface for a few hundred passes. It only cost me $125.... well worth saving a $1500 crank, but I don't think you could do it on these small cranks- nor would it be cost effective.

Post a thread in the WTB section. You'll find one. My buddy got one at the GLC last year for nothing. I think it was Mark Unger that had a pit box full of cranks.
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Last edited by cdelong; 08-13-2007 at 02:57 AM.
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Old 08-12-2007, 08:03 AM   #2345
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Ok, just got back from the track and i think it is solved, i noticed that there where some air bubbles in the fuel line and there wasn't going any fuel to the engine. When i put it on the start box and blocked the stinger i could get fuel to the carb and the engine would start. I put new fuel lines, fuel tank, exhaust seals and air filter on the engine and used the short plugs and it seems ok now. I just don't know what causes those air bubbles as i guess that may be my real problem?
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Old 08-12-2007, 10:59 AM   #2346
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Consider it done... I'm going to do some photos during the next week. Will post some here.
Cool! Could you send me some pics as well please for our website please?: www.scuderia-fun-and-drive.com

I'll send you my e-mail address via PM,ok.

Thanks,

Stefan
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Old 08-12-2007, 11:07 AM   #2347
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Originally Posted by Ice_nl View Post
Ok, just got back from the track and i think it is solved, i noticed that there where some air bubbles in the fuel line and there wasn't going any fuel to the engine. When i put it on the start box and blocked the stinger i could get fuel to the carb and the engine would start. I put new fuel lines, fuel tank, exhaust seals and air filter on the engine and used the short plugs and it seems ok now. I just don't know what causes those air bubbles as i guess that may be my real problem?
The air bubbles in the fuel line are caused by a hot carburator. Methanol, the main ingredient of our fuel has a boiling point of 42 degrees Celsius. If your carb gets too hot, the fuel starts boiling and you get gas bubbles in the fuel line because the heat is being transfered through the fuel. Once you have the bubbles, there is no fuel going into the carb anymore.

This means that your engine is running on the hot side. Try to richen the bottom and the top needle and see if the problem goes away.
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Old 08-13-2007, 01:33 AM   #2348
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ice_nl View Post
Ok, just got back from the track and i think it is solved, i noticed that there where some air bubbles in the fuel line and there wasn't going any fuel to the engine. When i put it on the start box and blocked the stinger i could get fuel to the carb and the engine would start. I put new fuel lines, fuel tank, exhaust seals and air filter on the engine and used the short plugs and it seems ok now. I just don't know what causes those air bubbles as i guess that may be my real problem?
Hey gozer, alles goed?

I bet it was the lid of the tank....
Changing your fuel lines every race, is an overkill, I change them.... when they look to dirty.. somewhere around once a year.

as stated before, Turbo plugs don't exist in long or short version, to change compression ratio (How can somebody even come to the idea), Like TK said, the long and shorter version of plugs, are there so the plug has more or less body around the wire, which determines the plugs temperature. A shorter body means a hotter plug, because the plug's body give less cooling to the plug.....
Sometime the bodies are the same length, but there is more or less material around the wire of the plug.

Yes, the afterrun discussion.
ALWAYS use afterrun oil, even if you will use you engine again tommorrow, whatever fuel brand you use.....
A bottle will cost you around 4,- and it will last a year...
Don't forget we live in a land with a higher percentage of humidity, so corrossion in your engine is built up rapidly.....
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Old 08-13-2007, 02:20 AM   #2349
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the long and shorter version of plugs are there so the plug has more or less body around the wire, which determines the plugs temperature. A shorter body means a hotter plug, because the plug's body give less cooling to the plug.....
Sometime the bodies are the same length, but there is more or less material around the wire of the plug.
If there is more body around the wire in a hot plug (smaller hole) then the compression would be higher since the hole in the plug IS part of the combustion chamber. Opposite goes for a colder plug..... (larger hole).... less compression since the hole is bigger.

I may not have stated my point exactly correct, but the plugs DO effect compression due to the difference in the size of the hole in the plug..... it is open to the combustion chamber and does effect compression. What do you think helps change the temperature of the body besides the body retaining heat? Compression makes heat- take some away it's colder, add some it's hotter.

and and Corse-R....... it does not matter if the body (hence the hole in the plug) is larger over the combustion chamber- it's still part of the combustion chamber

If anyone cares to prove me wrong, rip the wires out of each a "F" and "C" plug and measure the width and depth of the hole...... then come back and tell me I'm wrong- I'll eat crow if I am (I wouldn't make the challenge if I hadn't already done it).
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Old 08-13-2007, 03:09 AM   #2350
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I see your point now....

Was under the impression that you meant that the plug went into the combustion chamber deeper, which is quiet impossible...
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If there is more body around the wire in a hot plug (smaller hole) then the compression would be higher since the hole in the plug IS part of the combustion chamber. Opposite goes for a colder plug..... (larger hole).... less compression since the hole is bigger.
But it's the opposite around....
MORE material means a COLDER plug...
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Old 08-13-2007, 03:18 AM   #2351
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I wasn't really paying attention to the heat range- just the compression aspect of the plugs.

Plus it was 5am and I wasn't awake yet
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Old 08-13-2007, 03:54 AM   #2352
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I wasn't really paying attention to the heat range- just the compression aspect of the plugs.

Plus it was 5am and I wasn't awake yet


It was 11 am here...
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Old 08-21-2007, 03:10 AM   #2353
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Default .21 Conrod question

The engine that applies are a pair of JP Racing B5-T and a Nova Plus 21-7. The break-in is finished (or almost like the 21-7) and need to change the conrod of all two. My question is regarding the conrod type.... Plain R7 or R6 with hardcoated wrist pin?

The JP came with the R5 and the 21-7 came with the R7, but checked dimensions and the R5, R6 and R7 are the same. Only changes small details: R5 is the heavyest, R6 is lighter but comes without the upper bronze bushing (and I think that needs a hardcoated wrist pin - only available thru JP Racing) and the R7... seems to be almost light like the R6 but with upper bronze bushing.

Those are Off-Road engines, they buzz on my truggy...

Salvatori, Uriah, ... ?
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Old 08-21-2007, 08:49 AM   #2354
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Hi ,

I have .12 - 353 murnam mod. version. I run this engine with 2630 pipe combo. I'll buy a new pipe but this, time another one. Has any one tried any other pipes and what was your experiences???

thnx
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Old 08-21-2007, 08:58 AM   #2355
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Hi ,

I have .12 - 353 murnam mod. version. I run this engine with 2630 pipe combo. I'll buy a new pipe but this, time another one. Has any one tried any other pipes and what was your experiences???

thnx
MAX 2602, you are going to be very surprised.

I know I was after I switched from the 2630....
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