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Old 06-24-2007, 10:35 PM   #2251
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I fully under stand they do revisions for the better ie change timing transfer ports things like that are fine im all for that but down grading from 2 tungsten weights to 1 or none is what gets me fired up changes for the better by all means but changes for lower production cost is money hungry in my eyes

IFMAR is the model you want more torque than the EFRA versions
Judging a crank performance by the number of mallory metal inserts on their counterweight is just a nonsense. I could be worried more for other parts of the engine rather than the silly inserts (IMHO).

Don't worry if they have two, one or none... by size and weight a .12 crank could not hold 2 inserts on their counterweight and depending of the pendulum cut, could need one or none just to get the counterbalance needed for the reciprocating mass of the piston and conrod.
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Old 06-24-2007, 10:51 PM   #2252
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They cant be to bad if JP has them on every .21 on road they produce

I'm not say that the inserts are the reason for the performance its because the crank is so highly modified that they need them to be balanced

I wasn't talking about the .12 but the .21
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Old 06-24-2007, 11:05 PM   #2253
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Nitro J, You saw my 359 run and you know nothing had paformance on it. All i have to say is you think novarossi is expencive wait antill you need a rod or parts for the jp r9s witch is just a jp spec 35+21 novarossi and i think it is dearer than the novarossi 359 kit 2 engines compared to one that is alot dearer to buy outright and when it comes time to put parts in it as well. I'm shore it will have a litle in paformance over the stock novarossi 35 plus 21 engine but at i'm gessing near 1 and 3/4 the price to buy it and alot more for all the parts. It realy makes the 359 look better and better all the time what do you think. When its put that way?. Best Regards Jeremy.
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Old 06-24-2007, 11:15 PM   #2254
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Jason had the Murnan 35+ to me it had a little more bottem then your 359 with about the same top
you are right the 359 is a machine but if it didnt come with the second engine id be looking into one IMO the reason the JP cost more is the black crank/block and creamic bearings
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Old 06-24-2007, 11:19 PM   #2255
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Jason had the Murnan 35+ to me it had a little more bottem then your 359 with about the same top
Or it could have been his driving but i do admit the +2 flys
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Old 06-24-2007, 11:26 PM   #2256
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mine was running on the ritch side of safe there was more in it but no use recking an engine just to gain a little more speed. Yes Jason's murnan was the only engine that came close he used difrent gearing to mine and not shore about tirer size we had a drag in partice and there were prity close at that time. Regards Jeremy.
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Old 06-24-2007, 11:29 PM   #2257
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Ask Jason i thought he had more bottom and i had a little more top. He will tell you his thoughts Im shore if he looks at the nova rc tech forum. Regards Jeremy.
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Old 06-24-2007, 11:37 PM   #2258
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We both agree on something shit it must be raining (looked out side it is lol)
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Old 06-25-2007, 12:19 AM   #2259
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Old 06-25-2007, 12:44 AM   #2260
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Hi guys, thanks for all your help so far with my new Max LS3. Ran it on the weekend ended up with the bottom needle ONLY 1& 3/4 turns out. Any further out and the engine wont idle for more than 10 sec,slowly just drops rpm and stalls. I know its rich if i have the bottom needle any further out because as you give it a small rev it coughs raw fuel out before it catches and revs. My problem is that even with the bottom needle at up to 4 turns out the bottom runs on for about 3 sec before coming to a nice reliable idle, IT is not running on because it is to lean, its different, it just seems to drop down to a very high idle and then takes about 3 sec to drop right down. Almost like you have "Idle Up" on. (At least it never stalls on the start) Only real problem with it doing this is in hairpin corners it doesnt allow the clutch to tottally disengage and can throw the car into the fence if you arent careful. Should I just put up with this running on and tighten up my clutch a bit ??

Warp,
A lot of drivers make this error, they think there bottom end is tuned to lean, because of this high idle, but in fact it is still to rich....
Lean the bottom end a bit more, but also adjust the idle screw of the engine to let it idle a bit lower.....
Yes, maybe you also should tighten your clutch....
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Old 07-03-2007, 12:05 AM   #2261
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Hi,

Can anyone explain the difference between the .12 Nova motors and the Rex motors and the JP motors. I've looking at a JP Rex RT 12 S1. Is this the same as the Novarossi Rex.

I'm looking for an engine around $250us and am keen on the Novarossi. Most of the later models are over $300us so the Rex looked a good option.

Also are the Max Power and Mega also Novarossi based engines.

This is so confusing. Then there is the Ninja and now the Boss which I understand are designed and built by another Rossi. How do these rate?

Thanks and sorry if this has all been covered elsewhere.
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Old 07-03-2007, 03:07 AM   #2262
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Nova/Rex/Top are the same engine. To have more distributors, many years ago the factory invnted multiple brands. Different head colors or shapes but not any real change. Same happens with Team Magic/Eagle, Fantom/Ninja/Boss...etc.

Then there is the modified version of Nova engines. In the good old days, everyone might have different head colors and their signature on it. Some will just do it without changing color just sign the engine head and crank case. About 4 yrs ago, Nova decided that all OEM/Mod companies should have their own logo on crank case, hince you start having JP/Max...etc crankcase. JP/Max do sell no mod version of the engines which is the same as the Nova. They then do mods based on those engines, change internal and match the piston/liner.

Then there is the true OEM. Come to think of it, it is only RB. Which did their own design (remember RB booster port?). Even the crank pin size are different on RB engines. They are still from the Nova factory... until the Xeon line which is from Sirio.

Last but not least, Nova use to have their own mod version call M. Rossi done by Mario Rossi. Now it is called tuned and I believe is done by JP. Mario left and went to GRP. Hince the tune version of Nija is M. Rossi now.
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Old 07-08-2007, 08:30 AM   #2263
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Default Nova Engines

Does ceramic bearing has something to do in making my engine hard to
tune. when i get the right tune while i am running my 1/8th car, the tune
of engine will suddenly change to rich or sometimes to lean side. But when i
change my bearing to steel, the tune of my engine become consistent. Could
anyone share some ideas on my problem.
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Old 07-10-2007, 09:15 AM   #2264
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Default which pipe ?

Hi, just bought a .12 class Novarossi Rex engine. My friend had bought a Sirio Evo. We are TM G4S owners (newbies as well). We are considering the following pipes: Skyline, Team Magic or OS(all in-line pipes) . Any suggestions? Thanks.
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Old 07-10-2007, 09:37 AM   #2265
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Hi, just bought a .12 class Novarossi Rex engine. My friend had bought a Sirio Evo. We are TM G4S owners (newbies as well). We are considering the following pipes: Skyline, Team Magic or OS(all in-line pipes) . Any suggestions? Thanks.
The best Pipe for the Sirio Evo and Nova Rossi engine will be the Skyline VR 12 Plus. it will give you good power and good runtime as well.
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