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Old 07-19-2006, 08:47 AM   #1561
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ziggy12345
2 tanks is not enough to seat the piston on the liner and be able to start it cold. The engine will have too much friction during running and will wear more in use than if run in correctly. If you do preheat the engine it will expand the liner enough to be started with no wear.

Cheers
Alrighty then, if you insist.

I guess I'll keep doing what gives me good results and you do what's right in theory.
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Old 07-20-2006, 03:51 PM   #1562
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stefan
Alrighty then, if you insist.

I guess I'll keep doing what gives me good results and you do what's right in theory.
ill try what you do
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Old 07-20-2006, 10:44 PM   #1563
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Quote:
Originally Posted by silverM3
I just purchased a plus12-3c. What is a good break-in method for this engine? Someone suggested me to change the conrod after the first few tanks, is this really necessary?
Changing conrod on a new engine after break-in process is like buying an insurance for itself. Factory suggest it to be changed with the new one after break-in.
But for some engines, the first conrod could last for a 2-3 races. Some others broke after the first maiden race. You never know what will happened.

The question is : do you dare to take the risk?
If yes, then go ahead without changing it.
If no, then buy a $20 insurance for your expensive engine. It's worthy enough. Trust me.
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Old 07-21-2006, 08:23 AM   #1564
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Piyo Piyo
If no, then buy a $20 insurance for your expensive engine. It's worthy enough. Trust me.
I trust you
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Old 07-21-2006, 10:32 AM   #1565
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Piyo Piyo
Changing conrod on a new engine after break-in process is like buying an insurance for itself. Factory suggest it to be changed with the new one after break-in.
But for some engines, the first conrod could last for a 2-3 races. Some others broke after the first maiden race. You never know what will happened.

The question is : do you dare to take the risk?
If yes, then go ahead without changing it.
If no, then buy a $20 insurance for your expensive engine. It's worthy enough. Trust me.
That is horrible, so soon?
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Old 07-21-2006, 11:50 AM   #1566
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I have the same comment from 1 of the engine guru that did all my engine work........he saved a lot of different used but not completely beat up conrod, and when he is ready to break in a new engine, 1st thing he did is removed the new conrod and placed a used one to break in the engine. After the engine broken in........he placed the new one back in the engine and run it.

I am not sure is that a good idea for you guys to practice...........but it does make sence to me, sort of.
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Old 07-21-2006, 01:15 PM   #1567
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this method is not bad. you just gotta be careful not to use a rod that's too worn out or you could damage the crank pin.
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Old 07-22-2006, 06:05 PM   #1568
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Hi

Does anybody know where I can get a mugen x-12 piston, rod, sleeve set?

Thank you
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Old 07-23-2006, 07:21 AM   #1569
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Hi All,

I am using Novarossi 21-3C Race engine on my 1/8 scale car. The current setup was rich & the engine produces lots of smoke. After running for 3 rounds the engine was around 89 celcius. This was already set by my LHS as I am new to the hobby. But as my handling skills improves.

I tried to adjust the high end needle clockwise slowly 1/8 turn at a time to lean my engine to optimum high speed I am comfortable with. When the high end set rightly & I got the optimum high speed I required. Then when I push the throttle on my remote. My car engine does not respond but it starts to accelerate 2 secs after that. In simple words no respond during pick up but heard some weird sound. 2 sec after that the car accelerate normally.

There are no problems with my servos, remote & centax. Only that the engine makes some sound during the delay as mentioned earlier. Then everything is OK. But when I set back the high end to original setting. This problem no longer occurs. Do I need to do something to the low end since after high end adjustment are made. Is it to lean it or richen it.

Anyhow I deeply appreciate the assistance for all the experts out there... Thanks in advance.
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Old 07-23-2006, 11:45 PM   #1570
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You are setting your HSN too lean and your engine is bogging down during acceleration. From my point of view and from what I've read in articles regarding engine tuning, you should leave your HSN the way it is and not set it leaner.

You can also read here:
http://www.cefx.net/tips/nitro/tuning/index.php
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Old 07-24-2006, 04:02 AM   #1571
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Toh WL
Hi All,

I am using Novarossi 21-3C Race engine on my 1/8 scale car. The current setup was rich & the engine produces lots of smoke. After running for 3 rounds the engine was around 89 celcius. This was already set by my LHS as I am new to the hobby. But as my handling skills improves.

I tried to adjust the high end needle clockwise slowly 1/8 turn at a time to lean my engine to optimum high speed I am comfortable with. When the high end set rightly & I got the optimum high speed I required. Then when I push the throttle on my remote. My car engine does not respond but it starts to accelerate 2 secs after that. In simple words no respond during pick up but heard some weird sound. 2 sec after that the car accelerate normally.

There are no problems with my servos, remote & centax. Only that the engine makes some sound during the delay as mentioned earlier. Then everything is OK. But when I set back the high end to original setting. This problem no longer occurs. Do I need to do something to the low end since after high end adjustment are made. Is it to lean it or richen it.

Anyhow I deeply appreciate the assistance for all the experts out there... Thanks in advance.
Your setting still too rich ( if you hear blubbering sound, see some smoke, and engine temp. below 100C ).
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Old 07-24-2006, 09:03 AM   #1572
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aaalp
You are setting your HSN too lean and your engine is bogging down during acceleration. From my point of view and from what I've read in articles regarding engine tuning, you should leave your HSN the way it is and not set it leaner.

You can also read here:
http://www.cefx.net/tips/nitro/tuning/index.php
Thanks for the article, My high end was set according to track condition and the engine near water boiling temp. There are smoke at full speed, I dare not to lean more. Otherwise the engine runs too fast & then my car crashes.

Put a drop of water & it takes 4 sec to evaporate. I did heard something like blubbering sound during idle like what asw7576 mentioned. That when when I throttle there was a hessitation in pick up. I was wondering if my low end is rich. I was wondering if I lean the high end the low end will automatically be lean. Then I would have to enrich the low end.

According the article by Josh "If the engine hesitates then it is too lean and you need to open the top end needle. Remember, it's always better to start a little too rich vs. too lean!!". I was wondering if he tunes the engine for max speed.

For newcomers to 1/8 GP, as I get familiar I just wanna go faster stage by stage. What are your recommendations,,

Thanks again for the assistance...
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Old 07-25-2006, 01:51 AM   #1573
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Dude, your engine is still too rich. Lean HSN by 5 minutes increments and don't touch the LSN yet until HSN is optimum ( the blubbering sound is gone and no more hesitation at instant full throttle ).

The best way to set the HSN is to run your car at track and feel & hear it. Drive for 5 laps, go back to pit, lean the HSN, and try again until you hear no more blubbering sound.

About crashing : Set up your car according to manual book and buy fresh tires. As you master your car, you can fine tune the car according to your driving style.

Too cold engine = piston sleeve wear faster and you are not going to make 5 minutes refueling interval during race condition. Today's racing engine are screaming happily at 100C - 110C.

Learn how to clean your engine's internal. Use clean clothes, cotton buds, metal polish, after run oil, and nitro fuel or contact sprays to clean your engine's internal & external.

Another thing to check is your spring's clutch tension ( too soft = the clutch will engage at lower rpm = bogging effect ). Ask your friends who is expert and has caliper to measure the distance at clutch spring locknut. Usually 0.6mm to 0.8mm
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Last edited by asw7576; 07-25-2006 at 02:05 AM.
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Old 07-25-2006, 05:42 AM   #1574
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asw7576
Dude, your engine is still too rich. Lean HSN by 5 minutes increments and don't touch the LSN yet until HSN is optimum ( the blubbering sound is gone and no more hesitation at instant full throttle ).

The best way to set the HSN is to run your car at track and feel & hear it. Drive for 5 laps, go back to pit, lean the HSN, and try again until you hear no more blubbering sound.

About crashing : Set up your car according to manual book and buy fresh tires. As you master your car, you can fine tune the car according to your driving style.

Too cold engine = piston sleeve wear faster and you are not going to make 5 minutes refueling interval during race condition. Today's racing engine are screaming happily at 100C - 110C.

Learn how to clean your engine's internal. Use clean clothes, cotton buds, metal polish, after run oil, and nitro fuel or contact sprays to clean your engine's internal & external.

Another thing to check is your spring's clutch tension ( too soft = the clutch will engage at lower rpm = bogging effect ). Ask your friends who is expert and has caliper to measure the distance at clutch spring locknut. Usually 0.6mm to 0.8mm
Thanks and appreciate the assistance. I now understand what needs to be done...
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Old 07-25-2006, 01:40 PM   #1575
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Is there anything out there to help get the melted foam off of my polished tuned pipe. What is the best way to keep it clean. Thanks
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