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Old 07-17-2006, 01:19 PM   #1546
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rushdude
I will check the con-rod tonight for signs of wear. What would i be looking for exactly? Stretched? I am near sea level too, so if the conrod looks good i will add another shim and give it a try.
With the engine dissasembled, check the play on the lower journal of the conrod (is where the most wear and tear is created).

Have you run your car lately with hot and humid days? could be caused by a surge on humidity on the air.
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Old 07-17-2006, 01:21 PM   #1547
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I have only run it on hot and humid days.
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Old 07-17-2006, 03:31 PM   #1548
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Is $211 shipped, for a brand new unopened Nova NS12S3 Turbo and a .1mm shim a good price?
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Old 07-17-2006, 07:25 PM   #1549
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Corse-R
Much probably your conrod is shot and this kills plugs, check it for wear and damage, change it at the least suspect of wear.

Adding a 0.1mm shim could be beneficial because if you're racing near the sea level with lots of humidity you need to make room for that extra humidity on the combustion chamber.
I checked the conrod. There is no play at all, that i could find. I checked the area where it connects to the crank and i pulled the piston and sleeve out to check it where it connect to the piston. The conrod looks brand new.

I will add another .1mm shim and try it as soon as i can pick up some glow plugs.
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Old 07-17-2006, 07:52 PM   #1550
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rushdude
I need some help. I have a novarossi tsr12s3. I am having trouble with glow plugs. One plug only lasts about 4 tanks if i am lucky. I have been using novarossi #7 plugs. I am using trinity monster horse power fuel. 20% nitro 18% oil. On one of the bad plugs i noticed that the wire was like cut. Almost like someone cut it with a pair of wire cutters. I havent had any part of the coil fall into the engine though and it was only one plug that was damaged. On the other plugs there were black residue on the tips that wiped off very easily with a finger or towell.

As for head shims, i only have the aluminum one which is .3mm like stated in a previous post on this thread about running 20% nitro. Should I add another .1mm shim or is it something else?
how big is the track you run and have you tryed tornado fuel,
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Old 07-17-2006, 07:56 PM   #1551
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Its a small to medium track and i havent tried tornado fuel. None of my lhs's carry that fuel.
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Old 07-17-2006, 08:11 PM   #1552
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dos the car have good speed or is it bogy with 18oil,this happend to me a long time ago and i was told im runing the wrong fuel,can you get werks or odonald it could be that your way rich.
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Old 07-17-2006, 08:24 PM   #1553
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It took awhile to find a good tune but its got too much speed for what i want.
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Old 07-17-2006, 09:19 PM   #1554
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Quote:
Originally Posted by performula
Is $211 shipped, for a brand new unopened Nova NS12S3 Turbo and a .1mm shim a good price?

I guess no?
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Old 07-18-2006, 01:45 PM   #1555
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I just purchased a plus12-3c. What is a good break-in method for this engine? Someone suggested me to change the conrod after the first few tanks, is this really necessary?
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Old 07-18-2006, 02:34 PM   #1556
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Default I just purchased a plus12-3c. What is a good break-in method for this engine? Someone

I got this from page 48 of this thread, I use this same break in procedure with the microcast piston and has worked great. This also puts less stress on your conrod and you should not have to worry about it for at least a couple gallons. Novarossi are the best quality engines I have seen, everything has great fits and tolerances. Good luck.

Ok, here is what has been working for me:

I heat the entire engine up with a heat blower untiil it has at least 80-90C (the entire engine, not just the head) before I ever start it up.

Start the engine and put it on the track immediately and drive the car at a good pace keeping temp up to 100C. I do not adjust the needle towards rich, I actually want the car to shift into second gear.

Cool down to ambient temperature and run another tank the same way and that's it.

Since the microcast pistons are not as tight as the machined pistons, this is all they need, the entire break in is actually more for the bearings and conrod.

The more those engines are run under "break in conditions" (rich and cool), the more the microcast piston is wearing out before she ever makes power.

This has been working for me. It feels strange to do this the first times, but the benefits are great.
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Old 07-18-2006, 03:23 PM   #1557
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As long as youy ALWAYS preheat the engine before starting to 90 deg C then I agree with the above method. Problem is some dont

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Old 07-18-2006, 05:28 PM   #1558
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so this is what os dos to sort of, in a way
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Old 07-19-2006, 08:55 AM   #1559
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ziggy12345
As long as youy ALWAYS preheat the engine before starting to 90 deg C then I agree with the above method. Problem is some dont

Cheers

Ziggy, the post No4Hitter was referring too is from me.

You don't have to preheat the engine after break in is complete. The preheating is just done to avoid the brand new piston slamming into the pitch of the sleeve. The piston is still wearing in, but not as bad as if you start a brand new, cold engine.
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Old 07-19-2006, 09:32 AM   #1560
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Originally Posted by stefan
Ziggy, the post No4Hitter was referring too is from me.

You don't have to preheat the engine after break in is complete. The preheating is just done to avoid the brand new piston slamming into the pitch of the sleeve. The piston is still wearing in, but not as bad as if you start a brand new, cold engine.
2 tanks is not enough to seat the piston on the liner and be able to start it cold. The engine will have too much friction during running and will wear more in use than if run in correctly. If you do preheat the engine it will expand the liner enough to be started with no wear.

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