Novarossi engines thread
#1486
Yeah, I also want to know why some engines don't go back to idle right away after blast of full throttle. I can hear higher rpm for 2 or 3 second before down to normal idle ?
#1487
Originally Posted by asw7576
Yeah, I also want to know why some engines don't go back to idle right away after blast of full throttle. I can hear higher rpm for 2 or 3 second before down to normal idle ?
#1488
Originally Posted by antoine80
i face the following problem, i have an LL5. i recently replaced the rear ball bearing as it was almost destroyed. now the engine has the following attitude.
when i increase the RPMs to the highest point ant then leave the throtle to idle, the rpm doesn't return to the normal ones, although they are reduced the engine keeps running for some seconds untill it goes down to idle RPMs.
has anyone faced that problem?
talking to my local reseller he told me that the o-rings of the carburetor should be destroyed and air comes in to the engine from the niddles. is this a chance? i haven't faced this problem again, so i would like to have a second point of view
antony
when i increase the RPMs to the highest point ant then leave the throtle to idle, the rpm doesn't return to the normal ones, although they are reduced the engine keeps running for some seconds untill it goes down to idle RPMs.
has anyone faced that problem?
talking to my local reseller he told me that the o-rings of the carburetor should be destroyed and air comes in to the engine from the niddles. is this a chance? i haven't faced this problem again, so i would like to have a second point of view
antony
Try to seal your backplate and your carburator neck with silicon or air seal if you can get it.
#1489
Originally Posted by stefan
Those are typical air leak symtoms.
Try to seal your backplate and your carburator neck with silicon or air seal if you can get it.
Try to seal your backplate and your carburator neck with silicon or air seal if you can get it.
#1491
Originally Posted by antoine80
even if from the backplate there is no fuel leak there might be air leak? you just use silicon to seal them?
I use air seal which I bought in the US, it's from Racers Edge and it's great stuff. I haven't seen it in Europe anywhere, but you can use fuel resistant silicon (for real car engines). Just use very little.
#1492
Originally Posted by stefan
Yes, air can get through gaps where fuel can't, smaller molecules.
I use air seal which I bought in the US, it's from Racers Edge and it's great stuff. I haven't seen it in Europe anywhere, but you can use fuel resistant silicon (for real car engines). Just use very little.
I use air seal which I bought in the US, it's from Racers Edge and it's great stuff. I haven't seen it in Europe anywhere, but you can use fuel resistant silicon (for real car engines). Just use very little.
| <- here you put the silicone?
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i hope the above graphics are not destroyed i also attached a picture
[IMG]back plate[/IMG]
#1493
Tech Rookie
I have a Novarossi TSR12S3, and was wondering if anyone knew the default carb settings for it?
#1494
Originally Posted by antoine80
and this silicone is in a state like normal silicone? and where do you put it? your just put it around the end of the cap? if the cap is like this
| <- here you put the silicone?
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i hope the above graphics are not destroyed i also attached a picture
[IMG]back plate[/IMG]
| <- here you put the silicone?
|----
|
|
|----
|
i hope the above graphics are not destroyed i also attached a picture
[IMG]back plate[/IMG]
I use a small screw driver. Do the same to the carb neck and the engine will be good.
#1495
Originally Posted by markoshark
I have a Novarossi TSR12S3, and was wondering if anyone knew the default carb settings for it?
2.5 turns out on the low speed needle
#1496
Originally Posted by stefan
Yes, exactly. Make sure you clean the surfaces with solvent (break cleaner or alcohol) and don't put too much silicone on, so it won't run into the engine.
I use a small screw driver. Do the same to the carb neck and the engine will be good.
I use a small screw driver. Do the same to the carb neck and the engine will be good.
i will try it and send you back my results
#1497
Originally Posted by antoine80
i face the following problem, i have an LL5. i recently replaced the rear ball bearing as it was almost destroyed. now the engine has the following attitude.
when i increase the RPMs to the highest point ant then leave the throtle to idle, the rpm doesn't return to the normal ones, although they are reduced the engine keeps running for some seconds untill it goes down to idle RPMs.
has anyone faced that problem?
talking to my local reseller he told me that the o-rings of the carburetor should be destroyed and air comes in to the engine from the niddles. is this a chance? i haven't faced this problem again, so i would like to have a second point of view
antony
when i increase the RPMs to the highest point ant then leave the throtle to idle, the rpm doesn't return to the normal ones, although they are reduced the engine keeps running for some seconds untill it goes down to idle RPMs.
has anyone faced that problem?
talking to my local reseller he told me that the o-rings of the carburetor should be destroyed and air comes in to the engine from the niddles. is this a chance? i haven't faced this problem again, so i would like to have a second point of view
antony
Sometimes the engine will idle at high speds than drop if the low speed is a little rich, not much , just a little. Lean out the low speed and lower the idle speed, that may help. Also make sure you do not get a lean stumble when you go wide open quickly when you make the change. I had the same problem last week and fixed it with low speed adjustments.
I like to run the low speed very lean, I lean it until I get a lean stumble and than richen it a little at a time until the stumble goes away. Don't forget that as you lean the low speed the idle will increase so you must adjust speed as well, and of course the opposite when you richen.
#1498
What is the difference between in these Novarossi glowplugs?
C7TC
C7TF
Not sure what the 'C' and the 'F' are for.
Thanks.
C7TC
C7TF
Not sure what the 'C' and the 'F' are for.
Thanks.
#1500
Originally Posted by seabass2500
What is the difference between in these Novarossi glowplugs?
C7TC
C7TF
Not sure what the 'C' and the 'F' are for.
Thanks.
C7TC
C7TF
Not sure what the 'C' and the 'F' are for.
Thanks.
F = Frego = italian cold
Meaning, the F plug range is generally colder than the C range.
The F plugs have a shorter body which doesn't retain as much heat as the longer ones, which makes the run colder.