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Old 06-17-2006, 11:37 AM   #1486
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Yeah, I also want to know why some engines don't go back to idle right away after blast of full throttle. I can hear higher rpm for 2 or 3 second before down to normal idle ?
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Old 06-17-2006, 11:43 AM   #1487
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asw7576
Yeah, I also want to know why some engines don't go back to idle right away after blast of full throttle. I can hear higher rpm for 2 or 3 second before down to normal idle ?
the worst thing in this is that it increases the temperature of the engine, because it keeps working in high rpms.
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Old 06-17-2006, 12:21 PM   #1488
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Quote:
Originally Posted by antoine80
i face the following problem, i have an LL5. i recently replaced the rear ball bearing as it was almost destroyed. now the engine has the following attitude.

when i increase the RPMs to the highest point ant then leave the throtle to idle, the rpm doesn't return to the normal ones, although they are reduced the engine keeps running for some seconds untill it goes down to idle RPMs.

has anyone faced that problem?
talking to my local reseller he told me that the o-rings of the carburetor should be destroyed and air comes in to the engine from the niddles. is this a chance? i haven't faced this problem again, so i would like to have a second point of view

antony
Those are typical air leak symtoms.

Try to seal your backplate and your carburator neck with silicon or air seal if you can get it.
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Old 06-17-2006, 12:34 PM   #1489
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stefan
Those are typical air leak symtoms.

Try to seal your backplate and your carburator neck with silicon or air seal if you can get it.
even if from the backplate there is no fuel leak there might be air leak? you just use silicon to seal them?
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Old 06-17-2006, 12:52 PM   #1490
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How do I make my RS .12S1 faster?


im going to 30% nitro in a few weeks
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Old 06-17-2006, 02:04 PM   #1491
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Quote:
Originally Posted by antoine80
even if from the backplate there is no fuel leak there might be air leak? you just use silicon to seal them?
Yes, air can get through gaps where fuel can't, smaller molecules.

I use air seal which I bought in the US, it's from Racers Edge and it's great stuff. I haven't seen it in Europe anywhere, but you can use fuel resistant silicon (for real car engines). Just use very little.
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Old 06-17-2006, 02:36 PM   #1492
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stefan
Yes, air can get through gaps where fuel can't, smaller molecules.

I use air seal which I bought in the US, it's from Racers Edge and it's great stuff. I haven't seen it in Europe anywhere, but you can use fuel resistant silicon (for real car engines). Just use very little.
and this silicone is in a state like normal silicone? and where do you put it? your just put it around the end of the cap? if the cap is like this

| <- here you put the silicone?
|----
|
|
|----
|

i hope the above graphics are not destroyed i also attached a picture
[IMG]back plate[/IMG]
Attached Thumbnails
Novarossi engines thread-img.png  
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Old 06-17-2006, 05:20 PM   #1493
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I have a Novarossi TSR12S3, and was wondering if anyone knew the default carb settings for it?
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Old 06-18-2006, 12:26 AM   #1494
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Quote:
Originally Posted by antoine80
and this silicone is in a state like normal silicone? and where do you put it? your just put it around the end of the cap? if the cap is like this

| <- here you put the silicone?
|----
|
|
|----
|

i hope the above graphics are not destroyed i also attached a picture
[IMG]back plate[/IMG]
Yes, exactly. Make sure you clean the surfaces with solvent (break cleaner or alcohol) and don't put too much silicone on, so it won't run into the engine.

I use a small screw driver. Do the same to the carb neck and the engine will be good.
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Old 06-18-2006, 12:28 AM   #1495
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markoshark
I have a Novarossi TSR12S3, and was wondering if anyone knew the default carb settings for it?
4.5 turns out on the main needle

2.5 turns out on the low speed needle
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Old 06-18-2006, 12:28 AM   #1496
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stefan
Yes, exactly. Make sure you clean the surfaces with solvent (break cleaner or alcohol) and don't put too much silicone on, so it won't run into the engine.

I use a small screw driver. Do the same to the carb neck and the engine will be good.
thnx very much

i will try it and send you back my results
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Old 06-18-2006, 04:57 AM   #1497
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Quote:
Originally Posted by antoine80
i face the following problem, i have an LL5. i recently replaced the rear ball bearing as it was almost destroyed. now the engine has the following attitude.

when i increase the RPMs to the highest point ant then leave the throtle to idle, the rpm doesn't return to the normal ones, although they are reduced the engine keeps running for some seconds untill it goes down to idle RPMs.

has anyone faced that problem?
talking to my local reseller he told me that the o-rings of the carburetor should be destroyed and air comes in to the engine from the niddles. is this a chance? i haven't faced this problem again, so i would like to have a second point of view

antony

Sometimes the engine will idle at high speds than drop if the low speed is a little rich, not much , just a little. Lean out the low speed and lower the idle speed, that may help. Also make sure you do not get a lean stumble when you go wide open quickly when you make the change. I had the same problem last week and fixed it with low speed adjustments.

I like to run the low speed very lean, I lean it until I get a lean stumble and than richen it a little at a time until the stumble goes away. Don't forget that as you lean the low speed the idle will increase so you must adjust speed as well, and of course the opposite when you richen.
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Old 06-18-2006, 08:54 PM   #1498
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What is the difference between in these Novarossi glowplugs?

C7TC

C7TF


Not sure what the 'C' and the 'F' are for.

Thanks.
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Old 06-19-2006, 01:46 AM   #1499
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Quote:
Originally Posted by seabass2500
What is the difference between in these Novarossi glowplugs?

C7TC

C7TF


Not sure what the 'C' and the 'F' are for.

Thanks.
i think its regarding the long or short body of the plug
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Old 06-19-2006, 02:14 AM   #1500
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Quote:
Originally Posted by seabass2500
What is the difference between in these Novarossi glowplugs?

C7TC

C7TF


Not sure what the 'C' and the 'F' are for.

Thanks.
C = Caldo = italian hot

F = Frego = italian cold

Meaning, the F plug range is generally colder than the C range.

The F plugs have a shorter body which doesn't retain as much heat as the longer ones, which makes the run colder.
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