orangbaligila

not well lubed,... not heat treated,... high rpm on start,... leaving the piston on or near TDC on cool-down,...or overheated,.... learned all that first person a long,.. long time ago maybe it's not on your case but it was on mine

orangbaligila

make sure to cover the opening w/ something (paper is good enough) so the fuel won't squirt to your eyes,.. did it once,...and for sure it feels real bad,... hurts too, and the unbearable fear of losing eyesight, hehehe...

au_Nightmare

Nah it sounds good, Just from your first post I thought you had done like a 7 or 8 tank break in then went to revving its head off But you didn't so all sounds good

So the pipe has fixed your top end up?

bballer

Hey, I just finished the 6-8 tanks idling my rs3 today, and i hope i tuned the engine correctly. I had it set at the standard settings
top - 5 out
low - 4 out
idle - 1 mm
Anyway, at first i couldn't get the engine to keep a idle w/ the igniter out, so i leaned it to top 4 turns out and it was great. A guy at my lhs said instead of leaning it out to put it back and to leave the igniter on for a while and then take it off. I tried this, and it worked pretty well. The motor kept a fairly even idle, seemed good enough to me Then as I started to finish the last tank of idling, the rs3 kept dying and dying. I checked the plug, it was in good condition, and couldn't think of anything else, so I stopped for the day. Anyway, the guy at my lhs said not to touch the low end needle until you're running it, so I didn't. Could that be the problem? Also, After the idling part of break in can I lean it out some? Thanks

bballer

Thought of something else: When at my lhs the guy said to make my pressure line longer. I didn't fix it yet: would that make a difference???

burger

I'm not very happy with this outcome, and to top it off, my emails for support have gone unanswered thus far.

I have less than 5 tanks through this motor. I had finished the 2 minute cycling 8 times, and was in the process of running the car at light to part throttle on the track. I was running very rich and let the engine cool between runs. I have less than 10 laps going slow on this motor and it failed.

This is not acceptable.

Dino, you out there?

au_Nightmare

I cant understand how u would have damage on the conrod? Have a digital camera?

burger

I will try to get some shots tomorrow.

The only way I can think to actually pull the piston and sleeve out to really get a good look would be to cut the con ron. I'm still waiting to hear from someone before I do anything.

It does appear there is a little slop between the crankpin and conrod, but this may have be cause by the siezed piston. It does not feel like there is enough play to indicate conrod bearing failure. I'll have another look at it tonight.

au_Nightmare

Mines fully broken in with no slop (well not that I could see, no oil movement etc, ofcourse there would be some but I couldn't see it)

I pre-heat my engines when breaking in though, a lot less stress/wear on the engine that way

BTW heat it up with hair dryer for 5 - 10mins see if you can get it out then..

burger

Ok, now things are looking up!

I managed to pull the engine apart (with minor damage to a fin on the case ) and noticed a few pieces of metal at the bottom of the crank chamber. I remebered when ordering this motor I spoke with Geoff out at Project Zen and he had been doing some testing and was trying out some conrod shims for the wrist pin that might be a solution to the crankpins breaking. He told me that while testing a motor the weekend before I ordered, he had one lock up on him and carefully took it apart to find the conrod was walking off the crankpin. Assuming this was due to excess horizontal play on the wrist pin, he concluded that a few shims may help to keep it from having the problem in the future. He sent me a motor with the shims with good intentions.

Now that I have the motor apart and have the pieces of metal in plain view, I can see that one of the shims had failed causing the damage to my motor.

I finally got through the Geoff today, and he was more than willing to help by replacing the motor. He also informaed me that he has been busy getting ready for the RCX Show and that it has been hard for him to get back with me on the issue. I know how that goes and hope they have a great time at the show.

Luckily, I have an old Novarossi to get me through the weekend, and I'm still looking forward to seeing what the D3 can do.

Crisis overted.

Thanks Geoff!

J

GUNPOWDER

Hi,

I am having some temperature issues with my STS D5. I am happy with the performance of the engine but here is the story,,

The engine is new, I just finished breaking in and ran a for a day afterwards (break in according to the manual, 2lt fuel etc). The problem is, when the engine runs (even when the car is on the bench mostly idle and some throttle) , the temperature keeps rising up to 140C+ easily (~280F). .. I have tried my other engine (another brand) on the same car, same pipe, same fuel and same everything else (gears etc) and the engine does not go over 80C..

My settings are: HSN 4 turns, LSN 4 turns.. 25% fuel, head shims are factory… Previously I had a STS 12 which had very similar properties as far as the temperature is concerned..

Is anyone else experiencing this? Any ideas, suggestions?

Cheers,

burger

Two things can cause your motor to be running hot easily. The first is the motor is still very tight at the top of the stroke and this can cause a lot of friction and resistence resulting in heat build-up. The second would be a lean low speed needle setting. 4 turns out sounds about right, so I would continue with the break-in by taking it a little easy on the motor for a few more tanks.

Also, you may want to switch to a fuel with higher oil content to keep things lubed. What fuel are you running?

GUNPOWDER

Thank you,. The engine already had 2+ liters of fuel. It's fully run in. The fuel is 25% hot stuff. Remember, I have the same setup on a different engine which does not exceed 80C under the same conditions.

dino.tw

GUNPOWER,

The STS engine need more time to warn up. In the first or second laps you will feel the engine is slow,after several laps the engine will stay at a balanced temp. So if you turn the carburetor,you need to run several laps to get the exact temp.

you may need to rich the low speed needle to 5 turns out and maybe there is a space that you can lean the main needle a bit.

Regards,
Dino

au_Nightmare

And check the engine is broken in by removing glow plug and turning engine over by hand as per manual (only slight resistance should be felt)

My D5 rocks very happy with it..