Michael_T

iTrader: (52)

Jason, the extra needle is an optional tuning part (more agressive). Don't ask me how it works, never used one.

Michael_T

iTrader: (52)

Are you sure it is rust? Can you post a pic?

Are you draining fuel and adding after-run after each meet? Even if you didn't, I would be suprised that the engine could rust up in 2 weeks...

I have been running Tornado for awhile now, never had a problem with it.

wingracer

iTrader: (24)

The rod is aluminum, it won't rust. The bearing and crank could though.

It's probably dried up, gummed up caster. Pull it down, clean everything real well, lube it up and put it back together.

servo

thanx...will post it up tommorow...


will try it soon...thanx for the advise...

can i use sand paper to clear it out...???

lil-bump

iTrader: (89)

jjj

jca2000au

iTrader: (9)

Did you put any after run oil?

Michael_T

iTrader: (52)

NO

I agree with wingracer, I have seen a few bearings (both Novarossi and other brands) with gummed up castor which does have the dark brown colour similar to rust.

Lets see some photos first.

M7H

Depending on the age of the Tornado fuel, because "older" Tornado fuels (5 Liter cans) don't have castor oil in it, it is a full synthetic based fuel which burns completely clean. After run oil very much recommended.
There where 5 Liter cans of the so called "Sydney formula" which had a percentage of castor oil in it, and the latest Tornado fuels which came in the 4 Liter/1.06 Gallon cans are based on this "Sydney formula"...
But still I ALWAYS with ALL fuels recommend people to use after run, after every meeting and even if you are going to use your engine the next day again.
Have you check the price of a bottle of after run?
that's why I use almost 2 a year.....

servo

hi there...

actually i used tornado after run oil and keep it about 3 week without started it...

this are some picture of my internal engine...hopefully any experts here can help me on this...

what should i do..with what meterial should i use...???

wingracer

iTrader: (24)

Ew, that is nasty looking. If it is just castor, soak everything in alcohol for a bit and everything should just wipe off with a cloth or toothbrush.

Michael_T

iTrader: (52)

I wouldn't bother cleaning it. Just replace the bearing and rod, the crank looks ok.

Did you add additional castor/oil to your fuel mix?

servo

nop...just used oil from factory...after run the engine i used to open the back plate...clean the inetrnal with nitro buster and add after run...last month i didnt start the engine about 3 weeks...

replace the bearing and rod is the best option...???

i was thingking to put it in coke...

Michael_T

iTrader: (52)

Nitro Buster????

Are you talking about this:



I was under the impression this was an external nitro residue cleaner

mrgsr

iTrader: (15)

the rod shouldnt rust as its brass/aluminium..the rust will be coming off the crank

use scotch brite to clean it all up and then use wd-40 to spray it all clean. then methylated spirits to get rid of the wd40 as that stuff stinks

then oil it up. just soak it with after run oil. if you think the oil is too thin then go with power steering oil

houston

iTrader: (96)

hey guys , i got a 1/2 gallon old onroad crank i believe is either from a 359 or 35plus21 , whichever one uses a 4.5mm crank pin . it is a ceramic coated , hotmods putty filled crank . very spendy crank , if you want it you can have it for 90$ obo

pm or email me

[email protected]