New Kyosho CRF
#32
It should be obtainable through Pro Shop Futaba or RC Adviser Champ.
#33
Tech Regular
#34
Just like every bit of software ever written....
#35
#36
i'm thankful for how terrible microsoft is with their work, which is why the field to fix microsoft computers is ever so booming. XP has been deemed not CURE-ABLE. There are so many malware flaws that can take your computer down to the point where you MUST reformat and start all over.
Oh... what will vista bring us next?
This is the perfect way to start my new college classes
Oh... what will vista bring us next?
This is the perfect way to start my new college classes
#37
Tech Adept
#38
Tech Champion
iTrader: (10)
yep.
just a quick note. i have been building my new mtx4R and noticed the CRF needs alot of dremeling on the lower middle needle barrel area, similar to the sirio. the middle needle has a wopper of a head, so it also needs a bit of dremeling.
by the way, the engine looks pritty good installed got pictures which i will post later as a build review for my club's site.
#39
Tech Champion
iTrader: (10)
here is a picture of the CRF Kyosho carby modified so as to let it fit in the MTX4R.
i have a knack swaybar installed which had a part of the swaybar fixture hitting the middle needle.
it looks ugly, but it is the least amount i had to cut to avoid touching issues The sirio had the same issue, but not to this extent)
Nano, or Team orion, you may want to re design that middle needle (ie make it less chunky/baulky) and have the carby cut from factory. Every user will have the same issue, and it gets worse if you have installed a blade type rear bar on the mtx4
also, just a side note, the return spring seemed really stiff. i took it out as i was worried that the tension may cause excessive draining of the battery pack and cause issues in a long final. Is this a legitimate worry, or a i being to cautious??? (im using a 1400mah pack which is new, a sanwa erg VZ, and a low profile ko servo for steering. also running a spool up front, so using more brakes).
i have a knack swaybar installed which had a part of the swaybar fixture hitting the middle needle.
it looks ugly, but it is the least amount i had to cut to avoid touching issues The sirio had the same issue, but not to this extent)
Nano, or Team orion, you may want to re design that middle needle (ie make it less chunky/baulky) and have the carby cut from factory. Every user will have the same issue, and it gets worse if you have installed a blade type rear bar on the mtx4
also, just a side note, the return spring seemed really stiff. i took it out as i was worried that the tension may cause excessive draining of the battery pack and cause issues in a long final. Is this a legitimate worry, or a i being to cautious??? (im using a 1400mah pack which is new, a sanwa erg VZ, and a low profile ko servo for steering. also running a spool up front, so using more brakes).
Last edited by TomB; 07-25-2007 at 08:43 AM.
#40
Tech Regular
here is a picture of the CRF Kyosho carby modified so as to let it fit in the MTX4R.
i have a knack swaybar installed which had a part of the swaybar fixture hitting the middle needle.
it looks ugly, but it is the least amount i had to cut to avoid touching issues The sirio had the same issue, but not to this extent)
Nano, or Team orion, you may want to re design that middle needle (ie make it less chunky/baulky) and have the carby cut from factory. Every user will have the same issue, and it gets worse if you have installed a blade type rear bar on the mtx4
i have a knack swaybar installed which had a part of the swaybar fixture hitting the middle needle.
it looks ugly, but it is the least amount i had to cut to avoid touching issues The sirio had the same issue, but not to this extent)
Nano, or Team orion, you may want to re design that middle needle (ie make it less chunky/baulky) and have the carby cut from factory. Every user will have the same issue, and it gets worse if you have installed a blade type rear bar on the mtx4
#41
Tech Champion
iTrader: (10)
if i do have to adjust it...not sure. maybe cut it down and do another slot on it very carfully?? i don't see myself touching the middle screw though, only ever done it once on an engine. (i noticed it changed the powerband, but i am not good enough at tuning to be secure enough in adjusting it..and i've been racing fro 5 years)
also be careful when you are dremeling near the middle needle. it has a o ring under it, make sure you do not dremel the o ring!
#43
poor motor dude.... *smacks tomb for his dremel skills*
#44
Tech Champion
iTrader: (10)
the max is there, and it might go in for the finals. I need a second top engine though just incase. The MAX is flawless at the moment...i'll really miss it when it finally kicks the bucket
with the CRF i passed the first tank of fuel through it today, i put it on the box, and bliped the throttle. i only did one tank as i want to start driving it for the 2nd 3rd as the manual states.
i noticed the needle settings from factory were way out dude like i mean suuuuuper lean! the idle was all eratic going up and down, doing a weird waWAAwaaWAAwaa type thing like there was a air leak.
i richened it up, i forgot by how much as i had to close it and open it a few times to figure out what it was, but it was way lean, and i probably finished upening up both top and bottom by 1.5 turns i am using good quality fuel, runnertime 16% (JP Fuel)
it idled nicely, never bogged down or loaded, and was always crisp when i gave it throttle, yet ran consistantly around 90 95 degrees celcius. i wraped some aluminium foil around the head for a few minutes to get even more temp into it and it reached about 105, then i let it drop down again to 95 for the rest of the tank.
very strange though about the needles settings
with the CRF i passed the first tank of fuel through it today, i put it on the box, and bliped the throttle. i only did one tank as i want to start driving it for the 2nd 3rd as the manual states.
i noticed the needle settings from factory were way out dude like i mean suuuuuper lean! the idle was all eratic going up and down, doing a weird waWAAwaaWAAwaa type thing like there was a air leak.
i richened it up, i forgot by how much as i had to close it and open it a few times to figure out what it was, but it was way lean, and i probably finished upening up both top and bottom by 1.5 turns i am using good quality fuel, runnertime 16% (JP Fuel)
it idled nicely, never bogged down or loaded, and was always crisp when i gave it throttle, yet ran consistantly around 90 95 degrees celcius. i wraped some aluminium foil around the head for a few minutes to get even more temp into it and it reached about 105, then i let it drop down again to 95 for the rest of the tank.
very strange though about the needles settings
Last edited by TomB; 07-30-2007 at 06:19 AM.
#45
Tom - Were your starting needle settings even close to the ones shown below?