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Old 12-23-2006, 09:44 AM   #1021
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Originally Posted by Diesel Racer
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Thanks for the insight, can you confirm whether the ceramic bearings have rubber dust shields or are they unshielded?

Also is the Matrix likely to be in within the next month?

Regards, Mark
Hi. My rear Ceramic bearings do not have dust shields, but the front ceramic bearings do. Just like stock.

I am hoping to have the Matrix within a month.
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Old 12-23-2006, 06:52 PM   #1022
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Hi Uriah,

Can you please pm me your phone number? I'm interested in buying one of your modified engines, but need to ask you a few questions first and get your opinion.

Thanks..
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Old 12-23-2006, 10:32 PM   #1023
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Originally Posted by Grinder
I prefer to idle one tank then let it cool. Then put it on the track very rich so it only moves about 5mph, and less than 15k rpm. Each tank gradually lean the engine. Vary throttle input during break in. Depending on the engine it may take up to .5 to 1 gallon to break in fully. The Novarossi engines are so tight, I do not prefer the WOT method with them. It stresses the internal parts. I prefer to get some heat into the engine during break in. Somewhere above 160F but probably less than 200F for the first few tanks.
Thanks for the tips Just finished my 20th tank on the engine A friend of mine helped me break in the engine properly as extra care is needed to break-in ceramic bearings What I can say is that this engine is stupid fast It was already engaging second gear when I was finishing my 16th tank. Kept the close eye on the temp and was around 170-190F I paired the engine with a nova 2630 pipe and 6fins manifold Will post updates later after tuning the engine for racing
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Old 12-23-2006, 11:31 PM   #1024
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Here's a picture of my Nova 12+3SCT engine and Nova 2630 pipe with 6 fins manifold


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Old 12-24-2006, 12:38 AM   #1025
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you forgot that with the new engine, you need to update your signature too
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Old 12-24-2006, 12:44 AM   #1026
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you forgot that with the new engine, you need to update your signature too
yeah...you got that right
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Old 12-24-2006, 03:56 AM   #1027
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grinder
Finally! Now they can experience some real HP over there. Just kidding. That is good news though. Why would England not convert to be with the rest of the world?
Because they are British, buddy, because they are British!!

(Have I told you that I'm working for an English company now?)

Some evil character could ask you now, why the US is the only country left with the non-metric system , but I'd never do that

Merry X-mas Uriah and a sucessfull and happy new year.
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Old 12-24-2006, 03:59 AM   #1028
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Btw Uriah,

have you looked at the new Picco based EVO2 engines (LRP spec 3/ Mega DSII)?

I had good luck with one recently. Runs great out of the box and after some crank work it's a real screamer.
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Old 12-24-2006, 08:31 AM   #1029
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stefan

Some evil character could ask you now, why the US is the only country left with the non-metric system , but I'd never do that
I will,
Because it's America buddy, Because it's America
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Old 12-28-2006, 12:24 AM   #1030
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If ever i will restore my Nova NSR Murnan Modified, will it still function as a Modified if i change standard parts like piston/Sleeve, bearings etc.?

Thanks
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Old 12-28-2006, 08:37 AM   #1031
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Originally Posted by movingparts
If ever i will restore my Nova NSR Murnan Modified, will it still function as a Modified if i change standard parts like piston/Sleeve, bearings etc.?

Thanks
Hi. The engine will not be the same. All of the modified parts work together to give the best performance. Now if you use my crank with a stock PS, yes it will be faster than stock, but not as fast as original Murnan engine.
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Old 12-28-2006, 08:38 AM   #1032
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I will,
Because it's America buddy, Because it's America
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Old 12-28-2006, 08:41 AM   #1033
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stefan
Btw Uriah,

have you looked at the new Picco based EVO2 engines (LRP spec 3/ Mega DSII)?

I had good luck with one recently. Runs great out of the box and after some crank work it's a real screamer.
I have seen the new JL .12. It is Picco. I will test the stock engine hopefully this weekend. It should be a screamer stock. Can't wait to test the mod version.
What's been happening Stefan? It's just not the same without you here. Is the racing good in Germany?

Later, Uriah
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Old 12-29-2006, 08:11 AM   #1034
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I received my modified novarossi plus 12-3CT today.

I've used the OS tz before and always used the hot(P6) glow plug on the motor.

What is the recommended plug to use for the 12-3CT at high altitude with low humidity? Average temperature through out the year is between 20-40 deg Celsius. (Please advise on plug to use at sea level with high humidity as well)

What is the recommended running in procedure recommended for these modified motors?
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Old 12-29-2006, 08:31 AM   #1035
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[QUOTE=ProE].....................

What is the recommended plug to use for the 12-3CT at high altitude with low humidity? Average temperature through out the year is between 20-40 deg Celsius. (Please advise on plug to use at sea level with high humidity as well)..........................

QUOTE]

The numbers and characters on the plugs, are the product number, wire thickness, and thermal range of the plug’s body. Example: The Novarossi C6TG (F) or (C)
Product: C (Conical)
Wire Thickness: 6
Plug Type: T (Turbo)
Plated: G (Gold)
Thermal Range: F (Fredda = Cold) C (Calda = Hot)

The plugs with cold thermal range F (Fredda), have a body with thinner walls and shorter body, so they dissipate heat better and faster to the engine head. The plugs with hot thermal range C (Calda), have a body with thicker walls and longer body, so they dissipate heat better and faster to the engine head. The number of threads is the same on both types of plugs.

How to select the proper plug:
·When the ambient temperature is high, we have to use a plug with thicker wire.
·With higher compression, we have to use a plug with thicker wire.
·Humidity determines if we use a Cold (F) thermal range, or Hot (C) thermal range.
·With high humidity percentage we should use a Hot (C) thermal range plug.
·If we have high temperature and high humidity, we should use a plug with thick wire and a Hot(C) thermal range.

The best instrument to determine which Turbo Plug to use, is those table digital weather stations, that have Temperature, Humidity, and some also Barometric Pressure on them. That is the key to success or failure tuning engines with Turbo Glow Plugs, because they are so sensitive to weather variations that is unbelievable.

Following is a selection chart for Novarossi Turbo Glow Plugs

Type Thermal Range Nitro% Air Temp.C° Humidity%
C5TGC Hot/hot wire 10-20 0-10 70-100
C6TGC Hot/average wire 10-20 10-16 70-100
C7TGC Hot/cold wire 20-30 16-25 70-100
C8TGC Hot/ultra cold wire 30-up 25-up 70-100
C5TGF Cold/hot wire 10-20 0-10 40-70
C6TGF Cold/average wire 10-20 10-15 40-70
C7TGF Cold/cold wire 20-30 16-25 40-70
C8TGF Cold/ultra cold wire30-up 25-up 40-70

For Altitude you have to adjust your compresion ratio (higher) reducing shims on chamber, and/or use higher nitro % fuel. Depends on how high you are. Plugs will be the same as per chart.

AFM
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