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Old 09-15-2014, 10:11 AM   #3586
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Happiness is doing business with murnan modified engines...

Attachment 1230075

Contentment is when you ask for a worlds engine package, you get everything needed and more...

Attachment 1230074

Joy is when it's all prepped by a racer for racers...

Luke and I wish to convey our gratitude for the excellent service and fast response to a late request.

Love your work...

Thanks

h
Thank you. Enjoy!
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Old 09-15-2014, 03:11 PM   #3587
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Congratulations to team driver Steve McNichols. Steve finished second at the FORGASS race at Arcadia. He had the lead, when a miscommunication in pit lane let Eduardo Cabal sneak by for the win at the end. Ashton Brinson finished in 3rd rounding out the podium. Steve was able to set the fastest lap in the A main using the new RBM3x .12 engine. Way to go!
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Old 09-15-2014, 05:38 PM   #3588
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Hey Uriah,

I put two .21 motors in the mail today headed your way. They should get there thursday.
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Old 09-15-2014, 06:38 PM   #3589
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Murnan modded Nova ISON GT got it done once again!!! TQ'ed and 1st place win at the ROAR Region 1 Onroad Championship this weekend. Uriah, THANK YOU for your awesome work, the engine performed flawlessly throughout the weekend.

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Old 09-16-2014, 09:19 AM   #3590
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Murnan modded Nova ISON GT got it done once again!!! TQ'ed and 1st place win at the ROAR Region 1 Onroad Championship this weekend. Uriah, THANK YOU for your awesome work, the engine performed flawlessly throughout the weekend.

Way to go!!

Thanks!
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Old 09-16-2014, 09:21 AM   #3591
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Hey Uriah,

I put two .21 motors in the mail today headed your way. They should get there thursday.
Sounds good. You going to play with the 8th scale?

Did you try your M3X yet?
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Old 09-16-2014, 10:52 AM   #3592
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Sounds good. You going to play with the 8th scale?

Did you try your M3X yet?
I club race with the 8th scale but stopped because both motors sound funny. People at the track said they need new bearings so I stopped racing and now their on the way to you. I wanted to run at GLC but no motor and trouble with 10th scale stopped that.

Haven't run the M3X yet, no race here big enough to use it. It's in the holster with that Virtus you hooked up for me for special occasions. I'm headed to Kissimmee in December, I plan to run it there.
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Old 09-20-2014, 09:34 AM   #3593
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Find out anything yet?
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Old 10-02-2014, 03:36 AM   #3594
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Thank you. Enjoy!
Uriah, you have a PM.
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Old 10-11-2014, 10:10 PM   #3595
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what's the best way to store a motor? I usually put in after run oil (Tornado) and coat all of the parts, put the caps over the ports and put the motor in a zip lock bag. Is there something I'm missing or is what what others are doing?
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Old 10-11-2014, 11:17 PM   #3596
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That's about all I do as well. I put a desiccant bag in with the engine as well to soak up any moisture. I use the Novarossi engine maintenance oil instead of 'after run oils'. Id be interested in hearing if Uriah does anything different.
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Old 10-13-2014, 05:29 AM   #3597
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That's about all I do as well. I put a desiccant bag in with the engine as well to soak up any moisture. I use the Novarossi engine maintenance oil instead of 'after run oils'. Id be interested in hearing if Uriah does anything different.
Dan,

Our MMs arrived in zip lock plastic bags, capped off and heavily dosed with MM ARO. Which looks and smells like ATF but who knows what secrets lie within...
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Old 10-13-2014, 07:11 AM   #3598
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First time out with a brand new RBM3x last weekend at the FORGASS race in Fort Myers and man is this motor a rocket!!! Uriah, big thanks for the support. With a brand new motor (still breaking it in) and a brand new car (switched chassis), was able to finish 3rd.
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Old 10-13-2014, 09:29 AM   #3599
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what's the best way to store a motor? I usually put in after run oil (Tornado) and coat all of the parts, put the caps over the ports and put the motor in a zip lock bag. Is there something I'm missing or is what what others are doing?
It is vital to burn all the excess fuel out of the crankcase before oiling, and storing.

You must remove the fuel line from the carberetor, then turn the engine over on the starter box until it starts. It will usually idle for 5 seconds or so, then try restarting until the engine will not try to fire anymore. This usually takes 4-5 times restarting to burn all residual fuel out of the engine.

Then fill the carberetor up with after run oil, and turn the engine over on the starter box for 3 seconds. Then repeat with one more carb full of after run oil, and turn it over on the box for 3 seconds.

If you don't get that left over fuel out of the case, it's most likely going to start rusting on the rear bearing, even with after run oil.

Do this at the end of each day to prevent any rusting. Rusting can start very quickly in humid conditions. Like overnight.
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Old 10-13-2014, 06:01 PM   #3600
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It is vital to burn all the excess fuel out of the crankcase before oiling, and storing.

You must remove the fuel line from the carberetor, then turn the engine over on the starter box until it starts. It will usually idle for 5 seconds or so, then try restarting until the engine will not try to fire anymore. This usually takes 4-5 times restarting to burn all residual fuel out of the engine.

Then fill the carberetor up with after run oil, and turn the engine over on the starter box for 3 seconds. Then repeat with one more carb full of after run oil, and turn it over on the box for 3 seconds.

If you don't get that left over fuel out of the case, it's most likely going to start rusting on the rear bearing, even with after run oil.

Do this at the end of each day to prevent any rusting. Rusting can start very quickly in humid conditions. Like overnight.
+1

I've read so many threads where drivers claim the oil in the fuel or certain fuels will prevent oxidation. They should try living in the sub-tropics with +70% humidity all year round, the crank will oxidise in the course of the day, let alone over night. Yes, we've raced in drier and cooler climates and we had much better combustion. The IC drivers at England Park religiously after run according to the procedure above.

I'm a little more anal and prefer a tear down, cleanup and hand lube as I stress there'll still be residual fuel in the bearings. It takes me 20 minutes and gives me a chance to de-gum, look over the engine and check those pesky carby screws on Novas are tight.

In terms of humidity, all you need to do is buy a cold can of coke and place it on your bench, if there's a puddle of water under the can within a few minutes, you know the engine will be rusting as well.


h

Uriah, sent you an email, very, VERY big thanks from Luke and I for the awesome quality service.
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