R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Nitro On-Road > Onroad Nitro Engine Zone

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 05-26-2014, 10:08 PM   #3541
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: MANILA,PHILIPPINES
Posts: 535
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by dan_vector View Post
Of course but that wasn't what you asked! I don't strip the motor down totally
Just remove and inspect the rear and button. I'll do a complete strip when I change the rod which is about every gallon or gallon and a half. My engines have always ran better when left undisturbed inside to a point.
ya u know what? thats the second time i heard that. the first time was from tadahiko sahashi. he only checks the inside through the holes and cleans the outside only. i dont know why my local hobbyshop always tells me to clean the inside of the engine and all parts individually with soap and water then heat gun the oil then put it back together.

what picco does is cleaning gum the outside then oil the inside only by removing the back plate, thats it.

denatured alcohol, does that swell the rubber seals of the bearings?

what types are solvent based cleaners?

great help guys thanks!
__________________
Serpent 748/Nova Virtus/Sanwa M12/Maxima/Savox Brushless/Xceed
GPXJOE is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-27-2014, 03:34 AM   #3542
Tech Elite
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 3,127
Trader Rating: 22 (100%+)
Default

The theory is that the oil/deposits that are around the piston etc form part of the piston/liner seal and shouldn't be touched once broken in. You can test what I mean.

When you've run the engine for a while remove it from the car and look in the exhaust port. When you rotate the crank towards TDC you shouldn't see any air bubbles escaping past the piston. If you were to then strip the engine and clean the piston and liner etc then rebuild it and repeat the test my bet is you'll see air bubbles escaping!

Just stick to motor spray/brake cleaner on areas of stubborn dirt otherwise just use a brush and cleaning gum. Any form of cleaning chemical spray isn't great for rubber regardless what it is made of. Don't worry about that solvent comment with regards to external cleaning of the engine...
__________________
Serpent Viper 977e, Serpent Project 4x, Serpent 811T-TE Truggy, Serpent 811e 2.1, Serpent 411 4.0 Eryx, Serpent SRX-2 RM, Serpent SRX-4, Serpent F110-SF2, Serpent F180, Serpent 748 Natrix WC, Serpent Cobra GT 3.0, Serpent SRX8, Serpent S811 2.2, Baja 5B Flux, Atomic AMZ 1/27th, Schumacher GT12 SS.
Sanwa, Ielasi Tuned Novarossi Racing Engines, Tekin, Hobbywing, Muchmore.
dan_vector is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-27-2014, 08:32 AM   #3543
Tech Elite
 
ToysRUsKid's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Cinncinati, OH
Posts: 2,590
Trader Rating: 15 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to ToysRUsKid
Default

This is confusing. What do you do if you need to change the rod? At some point you'll have to take the engine apart.

Quote:
Originally Posted by dan_vector View Post
The theory is that the oil/deposits that are around the piston etc form part of the piston/liner seal and shouldn't be touched once broken in. You can test what I mean.

When you've run the engine for a while remove it from the car and look in the exhaust port. When you rotate the crank towards TDC you shouldn't see any air bubbles escaping past the piston. If you were to then strip the engine and clean the piston and liner etc then rebuild it and repeat the test my bet is you'll see air bubbles escaping!

Just stick to motor spray/brake cleaner on areas of stubborn dirt otherwise just use a brush and cleaning gum. Any form of cleaning chemical spray isn't great for rubber regardless what it is made of. Don't worry about that solvent comment with regards to external cleaning of the engine...
__________________
Dorian Tisdale - Professional RC Driver Wannabe
RC America \ DeSoto Racing \ XRay \ Novarossi
www.tsrcar.com \ Red Mosquito raceway \ www.racersoftoledo.com \ www.midwestseries.com
ToysRUsKid is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-27-2014, 09:16 AM   #3544
Tech Master
 
Grinder's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 1,847
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default Cleaning the Engine

I would suggest to leave the engine together until it's time for any maintenance. Constantly taking the engine apart to clean it is not necessary.

If you do want to take it apart after each race, You can clean the bearings with brake cleaner. Only wipe the piston with a clean microfiber towel. You do not want to remove any of the carbon from the side of the piston. Wipe the sleeve inside, and out with the clean microfiber.

It's ok to polish the carbon off the head button.

It's ok to remove built up carbon from the top of the piston, but never touch the side of the piston!

Make sure to thoroughly dry each part, and oil everything as you re-assemble.

Also:

It's also a good idea to use after run oil at the end of each day of racing. No matter what fuel you run. Rusting can start in hours in humid conditions.

To burn all the fuel out if the engine. Remove the fuel line, and turn the engine over with the glow ignitor until it will not try to start any more. Then, you can add the after run oil.

I've seen those few cc's of fuel left in the engine destroy rear bearings in a week of sitting.
__________________
www.murnanmodified.com
Grinder is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-27-2014, 09:18 AM   #3545
Tech Elite
 
ToysRUsKid's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Cinncinati, OH
Posts: 2,590
Trader Rating: 15 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to ToysRUsKid
Default

Thanks for clearing that up.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Grinder View Post
I would suggest to leave the engine together until it's time for any maintenance. Constantly taking the engine apart to clean it is not necessary.

If you do want to take it apart after each race, You can clean the bearings with brake cleaner. Only wipe the piston with a clean microfiber towel. You do not want to remove any of the carbon from the side of the piston. Wipe the sleeve inside, and out with the clean microfiber.

It's ok to polish the carbon off the head button.

It's ok to remove built up carbon from the top of the piston, but never touch the side of the piston!

Make sure to thoroughly dry each part, and oil everything as you re-assemble.

Also:

It's also a good idea to use after run oil at the end of each day of racing. No matter what fuel you run. Rusting can start in hours in humid conditions.

To burn all the fuel out if the engine. Remove the fuel line, and turn the engine over with the glow ignitor until it will not try to start any more. Then, you can add the after run oil.

I've seen those few cc's of fuel left in the engine destroy rear bearings in a week of sitting.
__________________
Dorian Tisdale - Professional RC Driver Wannabe
RC America \ DeSoto Racing \ XRay \ Novarossi
www.tsrcar.com \ Red Mosquito raceway \ www.racersoftoledo.com \ www.midwestseries.com
ToysRUsKid is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-27-2014, 10:08 AM   #3546
Tech Master
 
TeamCarnage's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Highland In. USA
Posts: 1,466
Trader Rating: 21 (100%+)
Default

A little debate ensued Sunday that I need cleared up. Are the Nova Pre-run engines truly broke in and ready for optimum race tuning out of the box?
__________________
Nick Altieri
TeamNitro RC Club, New Home track- Ho Chunk Southland Expo, Lynwood IL
Serpent 748 Natrix TQ, PICCO EMX-WC or "R", Spektrum DX4RPro, Futaba servos
411,3.0 17.5 TC; 3.5 Mod Sedan HobbyWing
Please drive responsibly
TeamCarnage is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-27-2014, 01:03 PM   #3547
Tech Elite
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 3,127
Trader Rating: 22 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by ToysRUsKid View Post
This is confusing. What do you do if you need to change the rod? At some point you'll have to take the engine apart.
How is it confusing?? Of course you will need to take it apart to change rods and bearings at some point but as Uriah says minimise it as far as practicable and don't clean around the piston!
__________________
Serpent Viper 977e, Serpent Project 4x, Serpent 811T-TE Truggy, Serpent 811e 2.1, Serpent 411 4.0 Eryx, Serpent SRX-2 RM, Serpent SRX-4, Serpent F110-SF2, Serpent F180, Serpent 748 Natrix WC, Serpent Cobra GT 3.0, Serpent SRX8, Serpent S811 2.2, Baja 5B Flux, Atomic AMZ 1/27th, Schumacher GT12 SS.
Sanwa, Ielasi Tuned Novarossi Racing Engines, Tekin, Hobbywing, Muchmore.
dan_vector is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-27-2014, 04:48 PM   #3548
Tech Elite
 
ToysRUsKid's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Cinncinati, OH
Posts: 2,590
Trader Rating: 15 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to ToysRUsKid
Default

Here's why it's was confusing..."The theory is that the oil/deposits that are around the piston etc form part of the piston/liner seal and shouldn't be touched once broken in." Not touching it means not touching it and changing a rod is touching it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by dan_vector View Post
How is it confusing?? Of course you will need to take it apart to change rods and bearings at some point but as Uriah says minimise it as far as practicable and don't clean around the piston!
__________________
Dorian Tisdale - Professional RC Driver Wannabe
RC America \ DeSoto Racing \ XRay \ Novarossi
www.tsrcar.com \ Red Mosquito raceway \ www.racersoftoledo.com \ www.midwestseries.com
ToysRUsKid is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-28-2014, 07:08 AM   #3549
Tech Apprentice
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 58
Default New Munan O.S engine

Just a question for Uriah Murnan.

New O.S. 2101 .21 engine on MM page.

How good is the engine? A lot of people say that with this new O.S base the engines can reach the performance of the Nova´s, or better... Metal quality has allways been a plus with O.S.
Luís Cortez is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-28-2014, 08:14 AM   #3550
Tech Champion
 
FastPete's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 5,202
Trader Rating: 44 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Grinder View Post
I would suggest to leave the engine together until it's time for any maintenance. Constantly taking the engine apart to clean it is not necessary.

If you do want to take it apart after each race, You can clean the bearings with brake cleaner. Only wipe the piston with a clean microfiber towel. You do not want to remove any of the carbon from the side of the piston. Wipe the sleeve inside, and out with the clean microfiber.

It's ok to polish the carbon off the head button.

It's ok to remove built up carbon from the top of the piston, but never touch the side of the piston!

Make sure to thoroughly dry each part, and oil everything as you re-assemble.

Also:

It's also a good idea to use after run oil at the end of each day of racing. No matter what fuel you run. Rusting can start in hours in humid conditions.

To burn all the fuel out if the engine. Remove the fuel line, and turn the engine over with the glow ignitor until it will not try to start any more. Then, you can add the after run oil.

I've seen those few cc's of fuel left in the engine destroy rear bearings in a week of sitting.
You have PM
__________________
Authorized Dealer for /Agama / Tekno / Team Associated / Schelle / Hobbywing / PT Racing Shock & Diff oil / Serpent / Tekin / JConcepts / AKA / Proline / Savox / M2C / Picco / www.fiercercsolutions.com Like us on facebook www.facebook.com/FierceRCSolutions
FastPete is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-29-2014, 03:17 AM   #3551
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 1,111
Trader Rating: 12 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by GPXJOE View Post
ya u know what? thats the second time i heard that. the first time was from tadahiko sahashi. he only checks the inside through the holes and cleans the outside only. i dont know why my local hobbyshop always tells me to clean the inside of the engine and all parts individually with soap and water then heat gun the oil then put it back together.

what picco does is cleaning gum the outside then oil the inside only by removing the back plate, thats it.

denatured alcohol, does that swell the rubber seals of the bearings?

what types are solvent based cleaners?

great help guys thanks!
It never gave me a problem ( denatured) . Those seals around tthe exhaust usually dont last long anyway. I only use it on the outside after using cleaning putty to get what doesn't come off. When I do open it up, I just wipe it dry and oil it as put it back together. Im under the impression theres some good bad stuff in every engine. I seen peoples engines blow up right after a strip down and was probably the reason for the failure.
JOE SI is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-29-2014, 04:27 AM   #3552
Tech Master
 
Grinder's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 1,847
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by JOE SI View Post
It never gave me a problem ( denatured) . Those seals around tthe exhaust usually dont last long anyway. I only use it on the outside after using cleaning putty to get what doesn't come off. When I do open it up, I just wipe it dry and oil it as put it back together. Im under the impression theres some good bad stuff in every engine. I seen peoples engines blow up right after a strip down and was probably the reason for the failure.
I too have seen more failures right after opening the engine. Usually for a new rod.

It's easy to leave an invisible burr when installing the new clips. I actually sand the edge of the hole after the new clip is in. Just around the edge of the wristpin hole. That guarantees that possible little burr you don't see won't cause a failure, or scratch the piston.
__________________
www.murnanmodified.com
Grinder is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-29-2014, 04:59 AM   #3553
Tech Elite
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 3,127
Trader Rating: 22 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Grinder View Post
I too have seen more failures right after opening the engine. Usually for a new rod.

It's easy to leave an invisible burr when installing the new clips. I actually sand the edge of the hole after the new clip is in. Just around the edge of the wristpin hole. That guarantees that possible little burr you don't see won't cause a failure, or scratch the piston.
Thanks for the tip. I do a similar thing but run tissue paper over the wrist pin clip just to check for burrs.
__________________
Serpent Viper 977e, Serpent Project 4x, Serpent 811T-TE Truggy, Serpent 811e 2.1, Serpent 411 4.0 Eryx, Serpent SRX-2 RM, Serpent SRX-4, Serpent F110-SF2, Serpent F180, Serpent 748 Natrix WC, Serpent Cobra GT 3.0, Serpent SRX8, Serpent S811 2.2, Baja 5B Flux, Atomic AMZ 1/27th, Schumacher GT12 SS.
Sanwa, Ielasi Tuned Novarossi Racing Engines, Tekin, Hobbywing, Muchmore.
dan_vector is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-29-2014, 05:00 AM   #3554
Tech Apprentice
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 58
Default

Hi Mr Uriah

Please give us your opinion about the O.S. 2101 .21 Mod and unmod engine . Have you test it? How does it go?

Thks in advance.
Luís Cortez is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-29-2014, 12:44 PM   #3555
Tech Master
 
Grinder's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 1,847
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Luís Cortez View Post
Hi Mr Uriah

Please give us your opinion about the O.S. 2101 .21 Mod and unmod engine . Have you test it? How does it go?

Thks in advance.
The modified engine is very fast. The stock engine is pretty good too. The mod has very good bottom end power, and a lot more top end than stock.
__________________
www.murnanmodified.com
Grinder is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
MURNAN MODIFIED PLUS 21-7BT tmperformance1 R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 4 02-11-2008 01:00 PM
MRX-4R,murnan modified 35+21 ltrdude R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 19 12-11-2007 03:29 AM
Ninja TA01 Murnan Modified,OS TZ Modified GMartinez R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 31 08-20-2007 09:40 PM
Murnan Modified horizon644 Nitro On-Road 1 02-06-2007 09:32 PM
Murnan Modified Motors AlanLim Onroad Nitro Engine Zone 1 04-20-2004 12:01 AM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 05:55 PM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net

SEO by vBSEO 3.5.0